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03-23-2024, 08:10 PM
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#61
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
Hard to say but you may not need it.
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I hope not. I will probably find out more as I rip more of the transom out.
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03-24-2024, 12:13 AM
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#62
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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Regarding the fuel tank installation you need to leave access to the hose connections and fuel gauge sender as these go bad over time and require replacement.
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__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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03-24-2024, 08:38 AM
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#63
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
Regarding the fuel tank installation you need to leave access to the hose connections and fuel gauge sender as these go bad over time and require replacement.
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Ok, So having them exposed back there like they originally were, was the appropriate placement for the tank? Then what about sealing it off to keep water from getting in the tank well? How do I do waterproof it all if the tank is exposed in the bilge?
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03-24-2024, 11:52 AM
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#64
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple J Graffis
Ok, So having them exposed back there like they originally were, was the appropriate placement for the tank? Then what about sealing it off to keep water from getting in the tank well? How do I do waterproof it all if the tank is exposed in the bilge?
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Not sure that possible, on boats water has a tendency to get into most places. Best thing IMO is to provide drainage from under the tank to the back where the bilge pump can remove it.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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03-24-2024, 01:31 PM
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#65
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
Not sure that possible, on boats water has a tendency to get into most places. Best thing IMO is to provide drainage from under the tank to the back where the bilge pump can remove it.
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Copy that. I will have to basically encapsulate it best I can and replace the old drains, while keeping enough room around the tank for air to circulate. Sound good or am I wrong there?
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03-24-2024, 07:19 PM
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#66
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple J Graffis
Copy that. I will have to basically encapsulate it best I can and replace the old drains, while keeping enough room around the tank for air to circulate. Sound good or am I wrong there?
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Sounds good.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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03-24-2024, 09:21 PM
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#67
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
Sounds good.
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Quick question.....How much or how little space needs to be between the stringer and the fuel tank for proper air flow? Before I took it out, it looked to only be about maybe 1/4 inch max between.
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03-24-2024, 11:49 PM
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#68
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple J Graffis
Quick question.....How much or how little space needs to be between the stringer and the fuel tank for proper air flow? Before I took it out, it looked to only be about maybe 1/4 inch max between.
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No air flow is required but I would go with the 1/4 gap so if there is any movement of the tank it’s not rubbing against the stringer. Most time I have seen expanding foam used to fill the gap but if you do this be used to use a closed cell foam which won’t absorb water.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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03-25-2024, 02:28 AM
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#69
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
No air flow is required but I would go with the 1/4 gap so if there is any movement of the tank it’s not rubbing against the stringer. Most time I have seen expanding foam used to fill the gap but if you do this be used to use a closed cell foam which won’t absorb water.
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The tank didn't have any of this. Just sat in there. Thinking on getting ¼inch neoprene or rubber strips to put in there to hold out in place
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03-27-2024, 07:40 PM
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#70
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 130
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Can anyone tell me if this would be a good place to cut the engine well to get to the transom?
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03-28-2024, 04:41 PM
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#71
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 130
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Or do I avoid cutting the well and cut here instead?
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03-28-2024, 08:17 PM
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#72
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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I would cut out the well before cutting the transom.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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03-28-2024, 08:38 PM
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#73
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
I would cut out the well before cutting the transom.
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And others say otherwise. Must all really be a difference of opinion. I would prefer to do it your way as well but am exploring all options.
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03-30-2024, 03:31 AM
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#74
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 130
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What a beautiful day today! Couldn't work on the boat..... but did get this completed! Finally built an engine stand for the outboard! Beats the old stand I had it on! Now I can work on it properly!
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03-30-2024, 12:36 PM
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#75
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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Looks good and sturdy.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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03-30-2024, 02:13 PM
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#76
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
Looks good and sturdy.
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Sure hope so! Took me 8 hours to build lol.
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04-05-2024, 01:56 AM
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#77
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 130
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Took me a while but I got back out there today. Made decent progress. Decided to remove the transom from the outside.... was so much easier than from inside. Came out in almost one pice too. Was still rotten. I found remnants of previous restoration work and old stringer remnants. The last guy who worked on this boat's restoration did a horrible job. I also found a huge crack along the stern from the top of the transom to the top of the stern. Got my work cut out for me regarding glass work....I did however stumble upon a local fiberglass and fell coat business who can sell me some glass as well as give me tips!
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04-05-2024, 04:04 PM
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#78
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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The crack probably formed from transom flexing due to rot. The hardest part of opening it up from the outside is reglassing the transom so that stress cracks don’t occur allowing water to seep in.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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04-05-2024, 08:46 PM
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#79
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 130
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This could be very true. What do you suggest I do to keep that from happening?
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04-06-2024, 02:29 PM
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#80
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple J Graffis
This could be very true. What do you suggest I do to keep that from happening?
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I’m not a glass guy so other than having a professional do it I can’t recommend more.
__________________
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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