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03-18-2024, 05:35 PM
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#41
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
Yes the lower unit needs to be filled with gear lube.
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How do I get the old stuff out, if there is any and get new stuff in? I was told it was winterized, so theoretically, from what I hear, the lower end should be filled with antifreeze?
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03-18-2024, 05:44 PM
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#42
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple J Graffis
Ah....Gotcha....So I assume that something was supposed to be there, but it really doesn't matter if something is or not?
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They are the inlets of the carburetors so yes required.
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__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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03-18-2024, 05:53 PM
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#43
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple J Graffis
How do I get the old stuff out, if there is any and get new stuff in? I was told it was winterized, so theoretically, from what I hear, the lower end should be filled with antifreeze?
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This is an outboard engine and the cooling system self drains when the engine is upright so no need for antifreeze. The lower unit which contains the dog clutch to select from forward/neutral/reverse is bathed in gear lube. With it in the upright position there will be a drain plug forward of the propeller shaft. Further up is the vent plug. These take a large flat blade screwdriver. Remove both to drain. When filling you fill from the bottom and pump the lube in the drain hole until it starts coming out the vent hole. Then install both plugs. This pushes out any air when filling. Filling from the vent will trap air and lead to improper lubircation damaging the clutch and gears.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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03-18-2024, 06:05 PM
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#44
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
They are the inlets of the carburetors so yes required.
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I am pretty sure I am understanding what you mean by that, but just to be certain.....I understand that they are required, but in the photo, seeing all hose bolt holes on the edge of the piece that the inlets are in, it looked like something else was previously mounted there over the inlets. That is what I am referring to. Do carburetors go there or was there previously an air inlet cover over it....or is there supposed to be nothing there and I am just over thinking?
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03-18-2024, 06:09 PM
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#45
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
This is an outboard engine and the cooling system self drains when the engine is upright so no need for antifreeze. The lower unit which contains the dog clutch to select from forward/neutral/reverse is bathed in gear lube. With it in the upright position there will be a drain plug forward of the propeller shaft. Further up is the vent plug. These take a large flat blade screwdriver. Remove both to drain. When filling you fill from the bottom and pump the lube in the drain hole until it starts coming out the vent hole. Then install both plugs. This pushes out any air when filling. Filling from the vent will trap air and lead to improper lubircation damaging the clutch and gears.
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I am really glad I asked that question! Thank you for explaining!
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03-18-2024, 07:41 PM
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#46
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple J Graffis
I am pretty sure I am understanding what you mean by that, but just to be certain.....I understand that they are required, but in the photo, seeing all hose bolt holes on the edge of the piece that the inlets are in, it looked like something else was previously mounted there over the inlets. That is what I am referring to. Do carburetors go there or was there previously an air inlet cover over it....or is there supposed to be nothing there and I am just over thinking?
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A air filter and cover attach to the outer holes. I would get a manual for this engine to help if I was you. Also try Googling some of your projects can provide good detail videos on the engine
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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03-18-2024, 07:48 PM
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#47
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
A air filter and cover attach to the outer holes. I would get a manual for this engine to help if I was you. Also try Googling some of your projects can provide good detail videos on the engine
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Air cover. Ok that is what I anticipated it was. Thanks! I am looking for a manual and am googling as much as I can. Just want to make sure I cover all avenues so I don't muck this up.
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03-20-2024, 06:30 PM
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#48
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Ensign
Join Date: Oct 2023
Posts: 14
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Hello and greetings from Estonia.Just to keep you motivated, i started my project in end of oct 23. Now all new transom, stringers, bulkheads are laminated to boat. Floor pieces are cut and laminated from below and waiting to laminate to boat. When i bought my boat i knew that this all need to be done. My boat is max 2000br -92 5.0 v8. just bought extra engine( 5.7) planing to use that in future.
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03-20-2024, 06:51 PM
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#49
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Ensign
Join Date: Oct 2023
Posts: 14
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This is my boat when i bought her. i love the lines. maybe i do my own thread for my boat
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03-20-2024, 11:18 PM
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#50
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mait
Hello and greetings from Estonia.Just to keep you motivated, i started my project in end of oct 23. Now all new transom, stringers, bulkheads are laminated to boat. Floor pieces are cut and laminated from below and waiting to laminate to boat. When i bought my boat i knew that this all need to be done. My boat is max 2000br -92 5.0 v8. just bought extra engine( 5.7) planing to use that in future.
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Wow, down to the bones. Very nice work.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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03-20-2024, 11:20 PM
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#51
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mait
This is my boat when i bought her. i love the lines. maybe i do my own thread for my boat
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Nice looking boat. Yes starting your own thread is preferred to keep from mixing things up with others.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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03-22-2024, 06:06 PM
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#52
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mait
Hello and greetings from Estonia.Just to keep you motivated, i started my project in end of oct 23. Now all new transom, stringers, bulkheads are laminated to boat. Floor pieces are cut and laminated from below and waiting to laminate to boat. When i bought my boat i knew that this all need to be done. My boat is max 2000br -92 5.0 v8. just bought extra engine( 5.7) planing to use that in future.
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Hello and nice work!!! You are a little ways ahead of me. I just pulled the last of the stringers yesterday. Working on the transom now. Thanks for the motivation! Hope everything goes well for your restoration!
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03-22-2024, 06:07 PM
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#53
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mait
This is my boat when i bought her. i love the lines. maybe i do my own thread for my boat
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She's very beautiful!
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03-22-2024, 06:08 PM
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#54
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mait
This is my boat when i bought her. i love the lines. maybe i do my own thread for my boat
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I would love to see your own thread and your progress from the beginning until now!
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03-22-2024, 07:41 PM
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#55
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 130
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Lots to talk about today. Sorry so long. Hopefully I get every question answered.
It has been a while. Wisconsin winter decided to finally be cold again and I have not been wanting to have any part of it. LOL I decided to get back out there though these past 2 days and chip away at what is left to pull. Both stringers, last bulkhead and bilge pump were removed. I chipped away at some excess fiberglass pieces around the stringer and bulkhead wells even though I probably don't need to. (OCD LOL)I am unsure of what the void is called when you remove the stringer and you get that open space...So I am going to call that a well. While cutting the excess pieces out, I exposed some more wood in the interior of the ski locker flooring. I kept cutting and more wood was coming out. Is this possible remains of an older stringer from a previous restoration that got glassed over and then new stringers placed in their current place ? I snapped a couple pics to show you what I found. How do I handle this? cut the old out and risk going through the hull again or just glass back over it and not worry?
I removed the rest of the old force engine. Question. In the pic of the back of the transom, you can see a little black flap. What even is that? is lifts up but I don't know what it is for. Also, The hold on the very bottom of the transom is not what I assumed. I thought excess water in the bilge go pumped out of that hole, but it turns out that the bilge pump was attached to a hose the leads out a hold in the back right side of the boat. So what is this hole? There are threads on the outside of it. I am assuming the last owner/s didn't care enough to figure it out or plug it up and took the boat out, allowing water to flood the wood and foam under the deck and cause all this rot. Is this just a simple drain hole that needs to be plugged up with some sort of threaded plug?
After pulling the bones, it was time to test the transom. I drilled into the bottom and as expected, I got rotted shavings. I drilled up higher though, ang got wettish shavings that were very light colored. I started cutting into the transom, and it all fell out like mulch. My worst fear came true. At the very least, I need to cut the engine well out. How do I do this to cause the least amount of visible damage possible? Do I cut along the lines in the one pic?
Lastly, what is the weird looking metal object in the pic? It sat at the back of the boat in the debris pile in the engine well when I got it and is the only piece that I can not identify.
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03-22-2024, 08:08 PM
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#56
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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The thru hull with black flaps are self bailing drains that allow water to exit but the flap prevent water from entering. The threaded hole at the very bottom center of the transom is the garboard drain. You can remove the plug to completely drain the bilge when on the trailer. Not sure what the piece of metal is for. As for the other work if the remains wood isn’t rotten you can leave it and coat it with epoxy resin. Sorry but the rest you’ll need to figure out yourself.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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03-22-2024, 08:27 PM
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#57
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
The thru hull with black flaps are self bailing drains that allow water to exit but the flap prevent water from entering. The threaded hole at the very bottom center of the transom is the garboard drain. You can remove the plug to completely drain the bilge when on the trailer. Not sure what the piece of metal is for. As for the other work if the remains wood isn’t rotten you can leave it and coat it with epoxy resin. Sorry but the rest you’ll need to figure out yourself.
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The thru hull thing has absolutely no hole on the inside of the transom for water to exit. Is this necessary if I already have a bilge pump and garboard drain?
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03-22-2024, 11:57 PM
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#58
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple J Graffis
The thru hull thing has absolutely no hole on the inside of the transom for water to exit. Is this necessary if I already have a bilge pump and garboard drain?
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Hard to say but you may not need it.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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03-23-2024, 10:51 AM
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#59
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 29
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Going back to the petrol tank - check it very carefully for signs of corrosion before putting it back in.
I had to replace the aluminium tank in my 1998 2700 SCR as it sprung a leak due to corrosion.
Be a shame to fiberglass it back in and then find out its leaking after a while.
Dont know what your budget is like but I would put a new one in there if money was not an issue.
Great project by the way!!
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03-23-2024, 08:09 PM
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#60
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2700Steve
Going back to the petrol tank - check it very carefully for signs of corrosion before putting it back in.
I had to replace the aluminium tank in my 1998 2700 SCR as it sprung a leak due to corrosion.
Be a shame to fiberglass it back in and then find out its leaking after a while.
Dont know what your budget is like but I would put a new one in there if money was not an issue.
Great project by the way!!
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This was addressed with me a while back. I think I can go over it with a wire brush attachment to clean it up. I was also told before putting it back in, to coat it in a layer of epoxy. I still need to have a lok inside of it to see if there is any built up gunk and if I need to somehow clean it out (don't know how I could do that yet)
I will look it over good though. I do have a spare above deck tank that came with the used motor I just got. It is less fuel capacity and you fill it up directly into the tank. Not a fan of that concept, so if I can put mine back, I will do that.
Speaking of putting gas tanks back....I have a question about how and where to put it back. When I ripped out the back of the boat and got all the debris cleaned out, I discovered that about 8 inches of the fuel tank was exposed in the bilge. This tells me that any and all water that flowed back there, made its way into the well that the tank sat in and very likely attributed to some of the rotting. Is there a method to putting the tank back in and completely encapsulating it in the new well? If so, how do I go about that with all the hoses and wires that have to run to and connect to the tank?
I am not really worried about money. Depending on the amount of overtime worked and the size of my check, I usually have an extra $200-$500 every 2 weeks to play with. That is what I use to work on this boat.
And thank you! It doesn't seem so great right now. I keep finding myself wanting to find other things to do besides work on the boat as I get closer and closer to completion of the demolition. I think I am procrastinating because I have never worked with fiberglass before and think I am going to screw something up when putting it back together. I am also afraid of removing the engine well. I know I need to remove it to get to the upper part of the transom, but I fear that it will look horrible when I glass it back in.😢
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