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Old 08-13-2019, 04:25 PM   #1
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 61
Default Bravo 3 corrosion repair

Okay, so my new to me boat needs a bellows job due to a leak I posted about in another thread. Since I'll have the boat out of the water, I figured I would go ahead and repair some drive corrosion. I've searched a lot of threads and I'm not sure what the best steps are, but this is what I've found. Keep in mind my boat is in freshwater.

1. Sandblast the drive with walnut media
2. I'm not sure what to fill the corrosion pitting with yet.
3. Etch/prep bare drive with Alumnaprep 33
4. Alodine the drive until it has a golden tint
5. Polyurethane epoxy primer
6. Polyurethane black

What do you guys think? Is the walnut a good media to use? I'm not sure what to use to fill the corrosion pitting. I've heard not to use jb weld because it has steel in it that will react with aluminum. I've also read that people have successfully used jb weld for yeas.

What do you guys think about the poly paint process? Is it needed or overkill. I'll be spraying with an hvlp gun. Let me know what I've missed.

Here is a picture of the drive. Should I get the Skeg repaired? It's another $200 added to my already growing bill. I've read some say it's not needed and some otherwise.


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Old 08-13-2019, 05:54 PM   #2
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lake Powell
Posts: 1,276

Do you boat in shallow water? The skeg is there to protect the props and outdrive gears. I'd say it's cheap insurance. You could also look into a Skeg Guard if there is enough material left to attach it too.

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Old 08-13-2019, 06:11 PM   #3
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Much of your picture shows aluminum oxidation. I think once you knock down the oxide you will have a fairly smooth aluminum surface. I recommend you use a 220 grit sanding sponge first and see how it goes. Aluminum smooths out quickly in my experience. You may want to apply a coat of clear over the poly, then some hand glaze if there are any imperfections.
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Old 08-13-2019, 08:20 PM   #4
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 61

Thanks Phillbo. I did contact a skeg guard company, but for the price I figured I would have it done right. I think there was only a $20 difference. I'm having to take the prop to the same company that would repair the skeg so I may just have it done at the same time.

Thanks Jrsick. I'm not sure what I'm getting myself into with the corrosion repair. I've tried to do a lot of reading. Seems like everyone does it different and a lot of times they don't say how it turned out and if it matters if it's in fresh or salt. I did read about people spraying a clear over it, but I figured that was just for looks. It's going to be slipped so I don't really care how pretty it is, just that I've done all I can to protect it. If I should clear coat, for protection, I may as well do that too.
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Old 08-13-2019, 11:59 PM   #5
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
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Thatís one funky looking drive for lake water.

Once sanded or blasted coat the bare aluminum with a primer,

Then spray with a top coat paint. You can then follow with a clear.
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Old 08-14-2019, 12:57 AM   #6
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 61

Thanks for the link Mike. I'll check it out.

The anodes are totally gone. Only the bolts were left that held the anodes in place. I don't know the full history of the boat, but I know the last 3 owners were here in the DFW area here in Texas. I know the last two owners kept it on Lake Grapevine.

I'm planning on pulling the boat next week, but I'm still waiting on a couple of parts.

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