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Old 08-12-2023, 05:16 PM   #1
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Default Nova Kool R4500 ACDC, DCissues

My fridge compressor will run for about 3 to 5 seconds every 2 minutes when on DC power? Checked and have over 12.5v? Did the by pass of the thermostat and still does this? On AC works perfect.
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Old 08-12-2023, 05:37 PM   #2
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I’m not familiar with how it works but sounds like something is thermally kicking out. I believe the compressor only is powered by 12V and the 110VAC is converted to 12VDC. Therefore the issue would be on the unconverted side of the power supply.
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Old 08-12-2023, 05:40 PM   #3
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Default Nevermind, I have no idea

Thanks for the reply, I have no idea what I'm doing with electricity, going to call in help for this one.
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Old 08-15-2023, 01:45 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geoffm70 View Post
My fridge compressor will run for about 3 to 5 seconds every 2 minutes when on DC power? Checked and have over 12.5v? Did the by pass of the thermostat and still does this? On AC works perfect.
12.5 seems low for a fully charged battery. min. recommended by Nova Kool is 12.4.

Voltage Cut-Out: 10.4
Voltage Cut-In: 11.7

You could have resistance in the line where the fridge is only getting 12.4 instead of 12.9. When the compressor cycles on it might cause a voltage drop where the fridge cuts out. Waits, senses 12.4, then kicks on and goes through this cycle over and over.
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Old 08-15-2023, 04:18 PM   #5
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Default that's what its doing

Thanks Shrew, that is what the fridge is doing on DC over and over. Checked again and my house bats are 12.6 to 12.8. Plus, I have two deep cycle bats paired together and their both over 6v. Got a new control board coming.
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Old 08-15-2023, 04:35 PM   #6
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Shrew, one more thing, one of the dash volt gauges, when at idle, the needle flutters slightly. Is this a sign of something or just a bad gauge?
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Old 08-17-2023, 04:24 PM   #7
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I'd put a volt meter on the connects and see what they are reading. Then turn it on and watch. The fridge usually waits 30-60 seconds before actually turning on the compressor.
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Old 08-17-2023, 06:25 PM   #8
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Default thanks again Shrew

Got a new control board from Novakool, will test the incoming volts when I put it in today
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Old 08-21-2023, 08:49 PM   #9
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Default needed the control board

Tested the volts coming into the fridge before i changed the control board, getting now 13.5 on DC. New control board in and fridge works on DC now.
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Old 08-23-2023, 05:32 PM   #10
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Tested the volts coming into the fridge before i changed the control board, getting now 13.5 on DC. New control board in and fridge works on DC now.
13.5 on DC?? On DC (fully charged batteries) I'd expect 12.9. On DC being pushed by a battery charger, I'd expect 14.0 - 14.4.

Was this with the Fridge AC breaker turned off?

Was this with the battery charger turned on? You usually have a wait a while for the voltage to stabilize when you shutoff the battery charger.
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Old 08-23-2023, 08:45 PM   #11
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Default I admit, I failed Electronics 10

I don't know what I am doing obviously. But that's what the battery leads say going into the fridge. I turned the breaker off to see if it works on DC. tested the batteries the day before and was over 12.6 to 12.8, but then the next day, the 13.5 at the fridge and it now works?
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Old 10-05-2023, 05:57 AM   #12
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Quote:
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12.5 seems low for a fully charged battery. min. recommended by Nova Kool is 12.4.

Voltage Cut-Out: 10.4
Voltage Cut-In: 11.7

You could have resistance in the line where the fridge is only getting 12.4 instead of 12.9. When the compressor cycles on it might cause a voltage drop where the fridge cuts out. Waits, senses 12.4, then kicks on and goes through this cycle over and over.
You were bang on Shrew, bad wire from the fuse panel to the battery and it was doing exactly what you describe above.

considering a whole boat rewire this winter. 29 year old wires.
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