Go Back   Maxum Boat Owners Club - Forum > Maxum General > Maxum Owners General Discussions
Click Here to Login
Register FAQ Community Calendar Today's Posts Log in

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-30-2023, 04:37 PM   #1
Lt. JG
 
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: Clearview, WA USA
Posts: 23
Default Seperating Battery Location 2400SCR

I am changing my starting battery to a larger group 27. Factory location seems too small for the same size house battery. Since I don't have a generator, I'm thinking of locating my house battery next to the waste tank. My question is do I need to run the negative cable back to the start battery or is it a good ground path if I attach to the engine block. Just curious if the ability to charge both batteries while under way would be compromised.
__________________

DaveHume is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2023, 10:25 PM   #2
Admiral
 
mmwjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
Default

You can tie it to the engine block which is how both are current connected even if one jumps to the other. You will need to run a new positive from the battery to the selector switch as well as the charger bank 2 positive wire to the new location.
__________________

__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2

Mike
mmwjr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2023, 11:36 PM   #3
Lt. JG
 
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: Clearview, WA USA
Posts: 23
Default

Thank you mmwjr. Kinda what I thought.
DaveHume is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2023, 01:09 PM   #4
Lt. JG
 
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: Clearview, WA USA
Posts: 23
Default

mmwjr, just a follow up. I installed the second battery (House) yesterday. I'm not sure if there have been modifications by the previous owner but checking on a couple of issues. Batteries seem to be able to power systems in switch positions 1 or 2 with a couple of exceptions.

1. Tilt/Trim is wired only to start battery. Can I splice and attach to the engine terminal on my battery switch so tilt and trim works on either battery selected? (I always use heat shrink self soldering connectors)

2. I still have no power to cabin lights, aft berth lights, head lights, wiper, and stereo. I am beginning to think I should replace factory fuse block with a higher quality unit from Blue Sea. I haven't yet started to check all the terminal for power but have installed all new fuses.

Just about ready to put in the water after what appears to be 12 years on the trailer!!!
DaveHume is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2023, 05:34 PM   #5
Admiral
 
mmwjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
Default

Yes you can tie the trim wiring to a common hot but the idea of having a house battery is to isolate it from the start battery so if a long day on the hook the starting battery doesn’t get run down. Yup many have had to replace the cheap fuse block. I would first verify 12V on the ignition switch B terminal with the key off and then on the I terminal with the jet in the run position. The I terminal feeds the gauges.

Have you measured for power on the fuse block. Does waste your time guessing get real measured data.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2

Mike
mmwjr is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT. The time now is 12:36 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.