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Old 07-30-2015, 03:12 AM   #1
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Question Remote trim switch help!

I bought a remote switch because my 2100SD didn't come with one. I understand that I need to wire into the blu/wht and grn/wht leads going to the pump for up and down. But there are 2 blu/wht leads coming from the pump unit. I thought one was for a remote switch, but it looks like it runs in the loom all the way up to the helm. And wouldn't there also be a second grn/wht lead for "down"? All diagrams I've found show only one blu/wht wire. Anyone else dealt with this before?

I can't actually get to the pump, so I'm hoping to just tap into the wires in the loom at an accessible place.

Any advice is appreciated!
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Old 07-30-2015, 03:25 AM   #2
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Attaching a photo, I hope.
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Old 07-30-2015, 11:36 AM   #3
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The 2 blue/white wire should be connected together as one goes to the helm switch and the other to the trim limit switch. Mercs diagram shows this but with a different point where they are connected.

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Old 07-30-2015, 08:21 PM   #4
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Question? Does the remote switch have trim up and trailer?
If so you will need to determine which blue/white goes to the trim limit switch for trim up and the other will go to the trailer button to trim all the way up.
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Old 08-01-2015, 03:12 PM   #5
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Default The switch

The switch I bought just has up and down. 3 wires including power. So, since the two blu/wht wires are connected, seems I could tap into either one, correct?

Switch:
Amazon.com : T-H Marine Transom Trim Switch : Boating Battery Switches : Sports & Outdoors
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Old 08-01-2015, 10:20 PM   #6
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Assuming you would want to be able to raise the drive to the trailer position from this switch you will need the blue/white wire that goes directly to the helm control and not to the trim limit switch.
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Old 08-06-2015, 03:10 AM   #7
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Default Okay, now ...

Thanks for the help, guys! Now I have a new question. I got the correct blu/wht wire and I know it works. However, it only works when my battery switch is "on." My goal was to be able to lift and lower the outdrive from outside the boat even if the battery switch is in the OFF position (for mussel inspections). So I wired the switch's HOT wire directly to one of the batteries. (I have a 2-battery system with the 1/2/ALL/OFF switch.). But then I realized that the main trim pump power line (the fat one) is wired to the switch. So, even though I can activate the solenoids, the pump won't work unless the battery switch is ON.

I assume I can't hurt anything by moving that fat wire directly to a battery + terminal, so the new trim switch would work even with the batt switch in the OFF position. There are other wires connected that way, like the bilge pump. That wire has a 50A circuit breaker at the pump, so it's already protected there.

Any thoughts on this? The last thing I need is an electrical fire! 😳
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Old 08-06-2015, 11:15 AM   #8
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By main power (fat one) are you referring to the all red wire that is connected to the 110 amp fuse?

If so yes it can be directly wired to the battery as shown in the diagram I posted.
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Old 08-06-2015, 01:10 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyHour View Post
........ it only works when my battery switch is "on." My goal was to be able to lift and lower the outdrive from outside the boat even if the battery switch is in the OFF position (for mussel inspections). So I wired the switch's HOT wire directly to one of the batteries. (I have a 2-battery system with the 1/2/ALL/OFF switch.). But then I realized that the main trim pump power line (the fat one) is wired to the switch. So, even though I can activate the solenoids, the pump won't work unless the battery switch is ON.

I assume I can't hurt anything by moving that fat wire directly to a battery + terminal, so the new trim switch would work even with the batt switch in the OFF position. There are other wires connected that way, like the bilge pump. That wire has a 50A circuit breaker at the pump, so it's already protected there.

Any thoughts on this? The last thing I need is an electrical fire! ��
Yes, the switch only activates the solenoid to complete the circuit. Having the solenoid bypassing the main battery isolator will only close the solenoid gate to an open circuit. The main power to the pump would need by pass the battery isolator as well. Otherwise it's like flipping a light switch on a circuit where the breaker is off.

If you wire it directly for convenience, then you can't isolate it. That decision is up to you.
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Old 08-06-2015, 04:00 PM   #10
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Actually on 2400 came factory wired this way. I can run the pump with the battery switch in off. I believe mine is wired to the Batt 1 terminal on the battery switch.

The pump and high current wiring is protected by the 110 amp fuse and the helm controls and wiring are protected by the 20 amp fuse.
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Old 08-07-2015, 03:47 AM   #11
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Default Thanks!

Ah, great points guys! Mike, yes I meant the 110A wire. I can't actually get close enough to see the breaker, but that's what the drawing says. I like your idea of having that lead connected to the BATT 1 terminal on the switch. That's an easy move and there are a bunch of other wires on the actual battery terminal already.

Thanks for all the info everyone!
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Old 08-07-2015, 07:10 PM   #12
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Happy Hour, where are you mounting the switch? Photos please. I have a 2100 sr and want to do the same. Thanks
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Old 08-08-2015, 05:59 AM   #13
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Photos attached. The '04 SD has a nice big swim platform ( kind of a bolt-on), and I mounted the switch just above. There's a nice gap that I hope will help the switch from getting kicked. Under the platform, there was already a hole where the previous owner had a fish finder lead going through. The hole is about 1", so I was able to pull all the wires through and make the connections outside the boat! This was a big help since it's nearly impossible to get to everything from the inside. I soldered all the wire connections and covered with heat shrink. This pic is from below the deck.
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Old 08-08-2015, 06:04 AM   #14
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Still trying to figure out how to attach photos. 😝
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Old 08-08-2015, 06:06 AM   #15
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Default One more

Looks like I can only attach one at a time.
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Old 08-08-2015, 11:55 AM   #16
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Nice! I will have to cut a hole in the hull to mount, not real enthusiastic about doing that. Had to drill 8 holes to mount the Bimini, that was painful enough. I may have to pass on this. The Bimini has stainless hardware and climbing in and over the side now can be rather painful, this switch would save me some bruises.

Thanks for taking the time to post these. I guess the 2100sr is a little different.
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