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Old 09-12-2016, 12:08 AM   #181
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I have one tach hat I have to use the 2 finger tap all the time......


No combination of finger tapping helped me. It has a mind of its own right now.
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Old 09-12-2016, 03:14 AM   #182
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Mike...so far the tap has worked pretty well.....I can feel if one side is pulling compared to the other...these tachs are never very accurate anyway....I like to pick my battles!!!
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Old 09-19-2016, 12:59 PM   #183
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Playing with that switch seems to have cleared that problem..
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Old 01-17-2017, 03:28 PM   #184
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So pulled the boat yesterday. Long story short, one engine had blown head gaskets on both sides. It's sitting in the boat as a pretty bare short block at the moment. Drive will come off today then pull the engine.
Question though- do I unbolt the engine from the pedestal mounts, or do I unbolt the pedestal mounts from the boat? Seems if I left the pedestals bolted to the boat, alignment would be closer when the new engine goes back in...
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Old 01-18-2017, 01:38 AM   #185
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So pulled the boat yesterday. Long story short, one engine had blown head gaskets on both sides. It's sitting in the boat as a pretty bare short block at the moment. Drive will come off today then pull the engine.
Question though- do I unbolt the engine from the pedestal mounts, or do I unbolt the pedestal mounts from the boat? Seems if I left the pedestals bolted to the boat, alignment would be closer when the new engine goes back in...
unbolt the mounts from the boat for sure
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Old 01-18-2017, 01:40 AM   #186
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unbolt the mounts from the boat for sure


Can I ask why?
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Old 01-18-2017, 01:46 AM   #187
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Can I ask why?
sure... for one just what you had said... engine alignment... also the 3 bolts on each side are a PITA to get to most times when the engine is in the boat
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Old 01-18-2017, 01:50 AM   #188
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sure... for one just what you had said... engine alignment... also the 3 bolts on each side are a PITA to get to most times when the engine is in the boat


I'm not talking about the mounts bolted to the block. Those mounts each sit on the adjustable pedestals. Those pedestals are what I didn't want to mess with and screw up alignment
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Old 01-18-2017, 02:41 AM   #189
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I'm not talking about the mounts bolted to the block. Those mounts each sit on the adjustable pedestals. Those pedestals are what I didn't want to mess with and screw up alignment
correct... there are 2 big bolts that are at the bottom of them that go into the stringer... take those 2 bolts out... doing that will not mess with the alignment... see attached pic
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Old 01-18-2017, 02:53 AM   #190
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correct... there are 2 big bolts that are at the bottom of them that go into the stringer... take those 2 bolts out... doing that will not mess with the alignment... see attached pic


Is it not hard to get the engine aligned back left to right? I took those big nuts off and was going to lift the engine out like that tomorrow...
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Old 01-18-2017, 04:23 AM   #191
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Is it not hard to get the engine aligned back left to right? I took those big nuts off and was going to lift the engine out like that tomorrow...
no its not hard.... use a scribe and outline the mount on the stringer... then when it comes time to drop back in line the mounts back up to the scribe lines and you are good to go... when I did my engine that's what I did and just to make sure everything was good I check it with the alignment tool and it was spot on!
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Old 01-18-2017, 04:40 AM   #192
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I would leave the mounts to the stringer....your going to have to align the drive anyway...I would not mess with the stinger...


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Old 01-18-2017, 04:53 AM   #193
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I would leave the mounts to the stringer....your going to have to align the drive anyway...I would not mess with the stinger...


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how is that messing with the stringer? are you talking about scribing the line around the mount in it? also I did not think of one possibility... his boat might have a L plate that the mounts bolt to and it is bolted to the stringer... my buddys boat is like that.. and same deal if that is the case... scribe a line in the plate... I have attached a pic of his setup with red arrow showing the plate.
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Old 01-18-2017, 04:55 AM   #194
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I have the L bracket on the outboard mounts and a big U bracket in the middle of the boat for the two onboard mounts.
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Old 01-18-2017, 02:22 PM   #195
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no its not hard.... use a scribe and outline the mount on the stringer... then when it comes time to drop back in line the mounts back up to the scribe lines and you are good to go... when I did my engine that's what I did and just to make sure everything was good I check it with the alignment tool and it was spot on!

I would not suggest this. There is a reason they make an 'Engine Alignment Tool'. If the engine is removed, it needs to be properly re-aligned with an alignment tool. Simply marking the mounts is NOT the proper method.
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Old 01-18-2017, 03:58 PM   #196
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I never said it was the proper method just that it worked for me and also I stated I did use the alignment tool as well... I have done this on no less than 5 boats and 7 engines and I did always check it with the tool... and it was always correct alignment.
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Old 01-21-2017, 05:30 PM   #197
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Well I left the pedestal mount in and just put the new engine in. Went in easier than it came out and alignment was perfect!
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Old 01-26-2017, 01:58 PM   #198
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Engine should start this afternoon.
In even better news...
I got an estimate last week for new canvas- $1240 to do the top, $1200 for the front panel (which is what I want replaced the most), and over $3000 for the top with front and both sides...
So that night I checked ebay, and long story short, I now have a brand new, factory made bimini top from 1997 in the same color as my current canvas for a total of $65! So I saved myself $1200 by some rare stroke of luck.
I have an inquiry out to Leta's for a price on the rest of the pieces...
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Old 01-28-2017, 01:08 PM   #199
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I would leave the mounts on the stringer, remove from engine side.
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Old 01-28-2017, 01:11 PM   #200
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I would leave the mounts on the stringer, remove from engine side.
Already done and running now...
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