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Old 10-03-2015, 11:30 PM   #1
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Default My 3200 SCR Restoration

So I bought the 1994 3200 I was looking at and got it moved down to where we live.
Got the engines fired up today; they sounded good.
Some questions I have, though...
Is there a trick to starting the generator? Is one of the batteries just for the generator? I tried everything I could think of and couldn't get it to turn over.
Does the AC need both shore power cables plugged in to work? I just have one cable available now and I get nothing from the display.
My more important question is what does it take to get the steering arms off from the inside of the drives? One is all rusty and I want to clean it up, if not replace it.
Thanks,
Alex
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Old 10-04-2015, 03:53 AM   #2
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Yes one of the batteries should be for the generator, someone with this model will chime in with details.

Plug 2 is dedicated for the A/C power.

To remove a steering arm either the engine has to come out or you have to use mercruisers kit to drill the upper outside transom assembly to access the bolt and nuts that hold it on. The kit comes with plugs to insert into the holes when done. There is also an aftermarket kit that provides better access but the cover plate used is kind of hookie and requires lots of sealant.
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Old 10-04-2015, 11:30 PM   #3
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Thanks. So I should look to get a kit like this and not even bother with the Mercruiser one?
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Old 10-05-2015, 03:18 AM   #4
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Thanks. So I should look to get a kit like this and not even bother with the Mercruiser one?
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While this one gives better access than mercs the cover plate is hookie IMO.
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Old 10-05-2015, 12:27 PM   #5
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Is it worn in any way or just rusty, the amount of work to redo it just to make it look new is not worth it imo. They have sprays that you can use to clean it up and make it look good, that's if there is nothing wrong with it.
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Old 10-05-2015, 01:09 PM   #6
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Is it worn in any way or just rusty, the amount of work to redo it just to make it look new is not worth it imo. They have sprays that you can use to clean it up and make it look good, that's if there is nothing wrong with it.
One drive looks perfect on the inside, the other has some corrosion issues (I'll be checking out the Mercathode system later). I want to clean that one up on the inside. But both gimbals have a good bit of light surface corrosion, and I want to get them off, blast them, and properly coat them since they'll be in salt water. I don't believe anything is very worn. There is little to no play in the gimbal, but I'll change the bottom bearing of the gimbal at a minimum while it's all apart.
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Old 10-05-2015, 04:07 PM   #7
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One drive looks perfect on the inside, the other has some corrosion issues (I'll be checking out the Mercathode system later). I want to clean that one up on the inside. But both gimbals have a good bit of light surface corrosion, and I want to get them off, blast them, and properly coat them since they'll be in salt water. I don't believe anything is very worn. There is little to no play in the gimbal, but I'll change the bottom bearing of the gimbal at a minimum while it's all apart.
You started this thread with wanting to pull the steering arms now you are saying pull the gimbals (I am assuming you mean the gimbal rings) due to corrosion, how does the rest of the transom assembly look?

BTY there is not a lower bearing but instead its a bushing. The upper bearing and seal are know to go bad which leads to a rusted and sloppy swivel shaft.
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Old 10-05-2015, 06:37 PM   #8
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You started this thread with wanting to pull the steering arms now you are saying pull the gimbals (I am assuming you mean the gimbal rings) due to corrosion, how does the rest of the transom assembly look?

BTY there is not a lower bearing but instead its a bushing. The upper bearing and seal are know to go bad which leads to a rusted and sloppy swivel shaft.
Yes, I wanted to pull the arm because it's rusty, but I also want to get the gimbal ring off to clean it. I plan to sand blast and paint the transom assemblies on the hull.
And the Clymers manual I had showed the bearing and seals on the bottom, but top might make more sense.
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Old 10-14-2015, 01:15 PM   #9
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I've been slowly working on the drives. Finally got one of the bell housings off.
I was looking at the gimbal housings closely and I think one was replaced. Aside from it being in better condition and having a bead of caulk around the perimeter, the newer looking one doesn't have a zirk fitting for the gimbal bearing, while the older one does have the zirk. Should I just put sealed gimbal bearings in both, or put a grease-able one in the older gimbal?
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Old 10-14-2015, 09:34 PM   #10
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Your call on the bearing, the seal one will be fine in the older housing.
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Old 10-17-2015, 06:05 PM   #11
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Well I was cleaning the props up and had them sitting next to each other... Just noticed the pitches are substantially different between the two.
Does anyone know a good pitch or the proper prop for this boat (7.4L, Bravo 2s)? I assume make these two props spares...
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Old 10-19-2015, 12:59 PM   #12
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https://www.mercurymarine.com/en/us/...tor/#/step-one
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Old 10-19-2015, 03:22 PM   #13
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That only goes back to 2000, but I assume the 7.4 is still the same? Looks like it suggests a 17.25x25.
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Old 10-19-2015, 04:21 PM   #14
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That only goes back to 2000, but I assume the 7.4 is still the same? Looks like it suggests a 17.25x25.

Not sure what parameters you put into the calculator but I would think that 25 inch pitch is too much and 21 - 23 inches is more in-line for overall performance.
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Old 10-19-2015, 08:27 PM   #15
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Not sure what parameters you put into the calculator but I would think that 25 inch pitch is too much and 21 - 23 inches is more in-line for overall performance.

I put a 10,000 pound boat (because it says weight minus engines) with two 7.4Ls, Bravo 2s with 2.0 ratio, 180 gallons and an extra 1,000 pounds of stuff.
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Old 10-19-2015, 08:49 PM   #16
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I put a 10,000 pound boat (because it says weight minus engines) with two 7.4Ls, Bravo 2s with 2.0 ratio, 180 gallons and an extra 1,000 pounds of stuff.

I tried it put used length at 35 feet which I believe is the boats LOA and the 2.0 gear ratio and got 23 inch pitch. Not sure why you would not include the engine weight of 2 big blocks, strange.
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Old 10-19-2015, 10:09 PM   #17
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I tried it put used length at 35 feet which I believe is the boats LOA and the 2.0 gear ratio and got 23 inch pitch. Not sure why you would not include the engine weight of 2 big blocks, strange.

That's what that program tells you to do. I don't get how the preferred way to find your prop is to enter the prop pitch and engine rpm... But second best is using weight. There could be a vast weight difference in various boats 35 feet long...
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Old 10-20-2015, 01:58 AM   #18
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That's what that program tells you to do. I don't get how the preferred way to find your prop is to enter the prop pitch and engine rpm... But second best is using weight. There could be a vast weight difference in various boats 35 feet long...

I agree but a 25 inch pitch just does not sound right to me, hopefully some with this model and power will chime in.

You said that you used 1000 pounds for stuff but the input is for passangers and stuff, 4 passangers will be 600 to 800 lbs then add water and gear you are close to 2000 lbs.

BTY using weight can vary a fair amount as well. Weight and length go together to some degree along with beam and height. Also a full fuel tank is over 1000 lbs alone.
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Old 10-20-2015, 11:13 AM   #19
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So how do size and pitch both play into the performance of the prop? Does a large pitch and small diameter perform similar to a small pitch and large diameter? Or does one number affect ow speed/acceleration and the other affects cruising/top speed?
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Old 10-20-2015, 11:43 AM   #20
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Think of pitch as the amount of forward travel per revolution. A 21 inch pitch will move the boat forward 21 inches for one revolution, this is in a perfect world but due to efficiencies (slip) the actual distance is somewhat less. Increasing pitch puts more load on the engine and it has to work harder, too much pitch and the engine cannot achieve its ideal WOT. Diameter along with pitch determines the amount of blade area which is part of the equation for the thrust and load, the number of blades is another factor. Generally decreasing diameter and using a larger pitch does not perform well. For more info try googling boat propeller theory.
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