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Old 10-01-2011, 02:28 PM   #1
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Default 1994 2000SC Refurbishment

http://theboat92.shutterfly.com/pictures/202

Finally the weather and my day off reached an agreement and I got to spend about 2 hours inspecting her. She has been sitting since 2006, only 402 Hrs, and is in really good shape. She needs a Really GOOD cleaning, inside and out, Floors are sound and upholstery is in great shape just dirty. The interior of the cabin is also in great shape just needs a Really good Cleaning. Paint is fading, bottom paint is in sad shape but, the good news is it comes off with my finger nail, under the bottom paint the gel coat is shiny and smooth. I am guessing when they put it on they didn’t prep it correctly. The engine needs replaced, I am going to get a Long Block and do it myself. And the Hatch window is cracked and needs replaced. And a New battery. That’s all I found so far. Like most “Project Boats” as I dig into this I am sure some other repairs will show themselves. The goal is to have her in the water by April looking like New! And running like a swiss watch. Oh almost forgot. The trailer just needs a few rollers replaced. Not sure about the wiring but looks good.

1st on my list is to buy a power washer and get her cleaned up.

Stay tuned for pic’s as I dig myself into this. LOL

Todd
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Old 10-01-2011, 02:55 PM   #2
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Wow 9Ball. That looks like a lot of work but good luck to you! Can't wait to see the before and after pics.
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Old 10-03-2011, 04:08 PM   #3
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Sounds like a winter of project work... It does look to be in sound shape, but you aren't kidding about needing a good cleaning.
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Old 10-03-2011, 04:26 PM   #4
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You're braver than I am, Todd, I'd have walked away from that one.

Ya going to remove all that nasty carpet?

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Old 10-03-2011, 05:51 PM   #5
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I hope I don't have to remove the carpet. Going to try to use a Carpet Cleaner 1st.(Like the ones you can rent from Lowes) It's really in good shape and the Boat is sound. If I had kept the 92 2100SC, I would have had to replace the Engine anyway.

Sold my 92 2100SC yesterday, and I pick up the 94 2000SC tomarrow.

I've never changed a Outdrive, maybe when I get ready (Jan or Feb) you can give me some advise.

Todd
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Old 10-04-2011, 01:00 PM   #6
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As long as the floors and stringers are in good shape with no rot, then most everything else can be cleaned and fixed. I'd suggest starting with the boat and mechanicals first, then get into deep cleaning. Of course a cursory cleaning would help out, but I wouldn't go crazy with compunding and shampooing until the end of the project. Just my .02
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Old 10-04-2011, 02:30 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9Ball View Post
I've never changed a Outdrive, maybe when I get ready (Jan or Feb) you can give me some advise.Todd

Advice? Sure - have someone else do it!

Kidding aside, don't think I can be much help. I've watched mine being pulled but haven't done it myself. Would be a good idea to fab up a stand for it, on rollers if possible. Move the stand into position under the drive, unbolt it, slide onto the stand, push it outta the way.

Are you going to pull the drive and the engine, then set about the task of cleaning everything up?
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Old 10-04-2011, 05:04 PM   #8
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I have pulled mine once. It was not that hard but it does help to have a friend to assist.
To pull you just need to put shifter in FWD WOT.
Disconnect Speedo hose (if equipped)
Disconnect trim cylinder pins and move out of way
Remove 6 nuts on outdrive
Now pull her off being careful to catch the drive shaft when it flops down on you.

To install, pretty much the same though you should check alignment with an alignment tool (about $80 for one)
Replace everything that needs it (gimbal, bellows, shift cable, u-joints, all o-rings and gaskets, etc..)
Now coat drive shaft splines with spline grease
Lift drive up and gently slide drive shaft into gimbal until fully seated
Install all 6 nuts and torque to spec (think it was 55lbs?)
Re-attach speedo hose (if equiped)
Re-attach trim cylinders and pins
You can now put shifter back in Nuetral
Fill it up with outdrive oil and check/fill reservior (if equiped)

Now go for a test drive

I think I got all the steps, may have missed something though so double (or triple) check me with the service manual :-)
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Old 10-04-2011, 10:51 PM   #9
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just picked her up and almost messed up coming out of the driveway. Gezzzzzz Narrow dirt driveway and narrow old country road with ditches on both sides. thought I had cleared the ditch turned onto the road and BAM the right tire of the trailer went in the ditch and bounced back out. Small dent in the rim but still holding air. No damage to the boat, thankfully. To quote Walter “Dumb Ass” !!! Collected my thoughts and went to the local car wash. Took all the leaves and twigs out, vacuumed the cockpit and then washed it with the wand. Carpet cleaned up nicely but barely made a dent in the upholstery. This weekend I think I’ll mix up some OxiClean and Mr Clean magic erasers and a ton of elbow grease and see if that works on the upholstery.

Todd
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Old 10-06-2011, 11:51 AM   #10
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Hooked up a fresh battery to her yesterday and started checking things out, Outdrive goes down but wont come back up, and most importantly the radio doesn't work. ran out of day light so I haven't checked the fuses yet. Crossing my fingers that thats all it is. not sure about the outdrive! I hate elect problems!!!!! Grrrrrrrr!

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Old 10-06-2011, 01:06 PM   #11
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Went down but not up... simple things first, when u hit the button to make it go up does the pump come on? If not perhaps just cleaning the connections? is there fluid in the reservoir?
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Old 10-06-2011, 01:16 PM   #12
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Yes got fluid, No pump doen not come on, I'll check the connections.

Thank You

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Old 10-06-2011, 04:09 PM   #13
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Could be the trim limit switch. Did you try pushing the Trailer button? That bypasses the limit switch so should work (if the linit switch is your issue). The Limit switch is the one on the right side of the outdrive (if I remember correctly). The left side sender is just for the trim guage. So if the wires are broken, it is faulty or just out of adjustment, the trim up would not work but Trailer should.
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Old 10-06-2011, 04:58 PM   #14
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Good Advice on the trailer button vs. the trim button. It could be in the switch connections itself. I would expect that if Trim IN (Down) brings the drive all the way in (down), then trim Out (Up) should raise the drive out to the trim limit. I doubt that connections on both the trim out and trailer are both bad on the shifter. The trim pump has two solenoids, one for In and one for Out. The trim out solenoid should be used for both the trim out and trailer button. You should hear the solonoid 'click' audibly. You can try jumping the post on the solenoids. The Top solenoid should be trim out and the bottom should be trim In. Furthermore, the wiring should be blue (Sky) for out (up) and green (Sea) for in (down). You should be able to jump the solenoids with a screwdriver or a wrench. Check the connections. The pump should run regardless of the fluid levels or if the hydraulic lines need to be bled. remove and clean up each connection one at a time. There should be a single fuse for the trim pump. So if one way works, the other should work as well.
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Old 10-06-2011, 07:00 PM   #15
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I'll take a guess.....

In order for the drive to remain in the UP position both solenoid valves have to be closed. The valves are normally closed unless power is supplied to them. So, if the drive went down when you pushed the down button it must mean that power is getting to the solenoids, opening them, and gravity pulled the drive down.

And since you stated the pump wasn't running I think that's the issue - the pump itself.

Dan
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Old 10-06-2011, 09:41 PM   #16
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Now I read the issue differently, but maybe my assumptions are incorrect

Todd, can you clarify if the pump ran when you went down? if it did then I still think it could be the trim limit switch. Or as Shrew suggested too, could be 1 of the solenoids or the up/down switch itself. Basically when you push the Trim switch Up, power should route through the limit switch, to the solenoid and engage the motor. When using the Trailer button, power runs straight to the solenoid bypassing the limit switch (the limit switch protects you from raising the drive up too far while in the water where trailer allows full up).

Also, as Shrew stated, there are 2 solenoids, 1 for UP and 1 for DOWN. So if you do hear it running when you push Down, that solenoid works. You can then meter the other solenoid to see if there is Batt. voltage on the feed wire. Also do you get voltage on the trigger wire when you push UP? If you do then that should allow power to pass through to the motor/pump. Now this is only if the Trailer button also does not work else we know it is the Trim Limit switch

I also am seeing in my manual there is 2 fuses somewhere near the solenoids. Not sure what they are both for as the diagram sucks. It does show a 20A connected to a RED wire and a 110A somewhere near the lower solenoid (guessing that is a breaker and not a fuse though they call it a fuse in the service manual).
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Old 10-07-2011, 11:41 AM   #17
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Yes the pump ran when I pushed the "Trim" button Down. But When I push the UP button....Nothing. no pump, no clicking, Naa daaa. I can not find the "Trailer button" , my 92 2100SC had one but this boat 94 2000SC doesn't seem to have a "Trailer button" . I also found that the bracket that holds the Pump and reservoir its Corroded beyond repair.

http://theboat92.shutterfly.com/pictures/235#218

http://theboat92.shutterfly.com/pictures/235#207

http://theboat92.shutterfly.com/pictures/236


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Old 10-07-2011, 02:42 PM   #18
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Oh, so the pump did run. That changes my out in left field guess a wee bit. LOL

Either the toggle switch or maybe the trim limit switch. Perhaps a bad relay or fuse. But like MC said you should be able to meter the connectors to see if you get 12V when pressing the toggle for UP so that would help narrow things down. Really long arms, or a helper, would make that job easier.

Regarding the separate trailer switch - my boat don't gots one neither. Instead, the drive trim toggle switch on the control lever incorporates the trailer switch. In other words, press the toggle lightly to raise the drive to it's pre-set trim level OR press the toggle firmly - which overrides the toggle's internal detent, to raise the drive all the way.

If you can't find a separate trailer switch perhaps your switch works the same as mine.

Dan
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Old 10-07-2011, 04:32 PM   #19
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Thanks Dan, I am pretty much on my own, you know how it is, boat needs cleaning or fixed and all your friends are busy doing something else, but once your ready to out..... everybody wants to go.... LOL Well I am a very nimble person, came from being a Helicopter mech all those years but maybe not quite as much at my age. Hahahaha anyway I'll try using the toggle like you said, if don't work then I'll break out the meter and see what I find. Gezzzz hate elec problems.... Wires have majic smoke in them and if you let it out ..... they dont work.

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Old 10-07-2011, 09:37 PM   #20
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Yep, the secret is in the smoke. You let it out and you are done

Hahahah, I say this all the time and people look at me like I am crazy! I am a bit crazy but at least someone knows what I am talking about. Guess only us mechanic types or electronic repair types get it
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