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Old 11-04-2007, 08:02 PM   #1
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Default Air assisted 'water drain'

Just bought a Maxum 1800 with 4.3L ..... and this is the first time I have had a Mercruiser.
Today run it up to warm and then set about engine drain ... 3 of the 5 blue plugs are easy - the left hand side drain plugs for block & manifold can't be seen ... and are very awkward to get to.

In the Mercruiser handbook it mentions an 'air assisted drain' with what looks like a cycle pump.
Is this an after fit ? ... can you buy a kit ?

And a related Q ... do you guys rate using 'Salt Away' or similar products after salt water use.
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Old 11-04-2007, 11:05 PM   #2
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Is this for winterization? Why don't you just circulate some Antifreeze in there? Corrosion will be taken care of then also.. draining a block thats had salt in it (even after flushing) will allow the cooling system to corrode over the winter.

Just my 2 cents on it.
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Old 11-04-2007, 11:46 PM   #3
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what yr is your boat...??..the newer ones have a pump that you attach to a manifold and pump the water out...it should be standard for the newer engines...
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Old 11-05-2007, 11:29 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seapuppy
what yr is your boat...??..the newer ones have a pump that you attach to a manifold and pump the water out...it should be standard for the newer engines...
The engine is 2006 ...
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Old 11-05-2007, 11:32 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brit Rider
Is this for winterization? Why don't you just circulate some Antifreeze in there? Corrosion will be taken care of then also.. draining a block thats had salt in it (even after flushing) will allow the cooling system to corrode over the winter.

Just my 2 cents on it.
I thought draining was the preferred option for a boat over winter - hence the 5 blue drain plugs ?

I guess I could mix up a gallon of antifreeze, what do you do start engine of muffs get it all running well, then stop and connect hose from muff to a bucket of antifreeze mix ? assume it will suck up the mix ?

You think this is better than draining and leaving dry ?

Not had a Mercruiser before so not had to think abut this.
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Old 11-05-2007, 02:42 PM   #6
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I believe it to be far far better.

Basically if you let the engine dry out, even though it's been flushed salt is still in the pores of the metal, which allows it to oxidise over winter.

If you put antifreeze/engine coolant in not only does it cut corrosion right down but it also means you don't need to sweat about any water being left in the block as the anti-freeze will mix with any remaining water.

Just run some water through your engine as normal, then attach about 5ft of garden hose to a funnel and the muffs. sit on the back of your boat and pour pure antifreeze in the funnel while someone else turns on the ignition... let her run until you see it coming out or you run out of antifreeze. a 5 litre jug would be plenty.

In the spring simply give your engine a flush with fresh water and you're newly corrosion protected engine is ready to go again! It's a win win situation
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Old 11-05-2007, 05:01 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brit Rider
I believe it to be far far better.

>>

If you put antifreeze/engine coolant in not only does it cut corrosion right down but it also means you don't need to sweat about any water being left in the block as the anti-freeze will mix with any remaining water.


>Basically if you let the engine dry out, even though it's been flushed salt is still in the pores of the metal, which allows it to oxidise over winter.

Even if you have flushed it with fresh water and used Salt-Away or X-Salt ?

Minor issue (for me) is that I always start up an engine once a month over winter - find that much better than leaving it stand for 6 months.

I guess I could try catching the mix as it pumps out and pour it back in after my warm up run on fresh water ( through the muffs.)

A related couple of Q's -

# in my Mercruiser owners handbook, it states to spray engine with corrosion guard, do you do this ... is WD40 just as good ?
Always sprayed my OB's with WD40, to act as a dewaterring agent.


# Adding fuel stabilizer and making sure fuel with this additive runs through fuel system. ... never done this on any engine before, is it really necessary ... I know this was an issue with metal fuel tanks, but why would it be an issue with plastic tanks.
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Old 11-05-2007, 08:17 PM   #8
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what my marina does..since we're all dry stored...is they have this tub full of antifreeze and water mix....they drop the drive down and run the engine till it warms up...once it's warmed..the thermostat opens and the antifreeze is pumped up thru the whole engine drive...
then they fog the engine ...mainly spray fogging oil into the intake and shut off...gotta spray a mess of it into the carb....then pull the batt's and put the boat back on it's blocks....of course the water tanks have the RV antifreeze pumped thru it and all the water lines....
West marina makes a kit that you can use to do it yourself...mix up some antifreeze in a jug that has the hose fitting and the valve..run the engine till warm and then switch the valve to pull from the jug...when you see antifreeze come out the drive...shut off....your done....
those are just a few suggestions....but either way..if your going to lay her up for the winter..then definitely winterize the engine/drive .....that will save you tons of money later!!
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Old 11-05-2007, 09:27 PM   #9
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Just re-read my notes and possibly didn't make something clear which SeaPuppy Picked up on - The engine MUST be upto temp when pumping anit-freeze in.

SeaPuppy - sounds like your marina have a nice simple but great approach!

Osprey - Whatever you do to your engine it will always have salt in it at a microscopic level.. which is still more than enough for corrosion. All depends on how bothered you are but I guess throwing some salt away in the anti freeze mix isn't going to do any harm if it's a product you like to use.

On the starting the engine every month again, can't do any harm but personally I'd not bother. If you've fogged your cylinders and everything's lubed up then i don't personally see the point - but its not my boat! Your choice. If you want to keep engine oil distributed then maybe its worth keeping the plugs out and letting the engine turn over a couple of times every now and again.. but again.. preference.. we all have our own ways

On the WD40 vs Corrosion guard.. I use neither. I use a product called GT85 which is basically a superior WD40. Very similar but contains PTFE for better lubrication and longevity. Also doesn't make stuff stick to everything thats been treated as it dries up unlike WD40 which leaves a trail. You can get it from any motor shops, motorways, halfords, local motor factors parts store etc in the UK.

Apologies for the essay... spending way too much time on this forum at the mo! Need to get back out on the water already!!!
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Old 11-05-2007, 10:43 PM   #10
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Thanks for comments - and all is being absorbed ..... hope I'm not annoying people with basic Q's ?

As engine has not been used in Salt Water yet ... is the considered opinion that leaving it full of water (+anti-freeze) over winter is still better than draining out ?

I accept the advice that once it's been in saltwater, then not-draining is the way forward, seems logical - only Q is whether to do it this year ?


My background with boats (30 years) has been with Outboards - and never had these issues of draining or lay up ... just started the engine every month through winter.
Always sprayed under the cover of the engine with WD40 from a hand spray after each sea day out to de-water, and provide anti-corrosion.

So now have to learn how to look after my sparkling new Mercruiser :-)

I'll admit to being nervous of leaving a motor for 5-6 months without running it, maybe it's an unnecessary worry ... but I know on outboards you could get seized piston rings, stuck reed valves, and starter commutators corrode etc.

I have seen OB's after full layup procedure be well screwed when spring came .... while myself & mate who run their engines to warm each month have never had a problem come spring.
Could be just coincidence?


By the way do you use the cans of Quicksilver spray fogging oil, or is there a cheaper way to do this ?
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Old 11-05-2007, 11:57 PM   #11
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I'd fog the engine up after getting the AF into the engine...this will protect the cylinders and keep them from freezing up...it takes probably about a yr for the cylinders to rust up..plus you'd have to have water in the cylinder to promote rust...so fogging is the way to go....or.....and this is just as easy if your handy with a wrench....pull the spark plugs and shoot oil or wd40 into each cylinder...then turn the engine over by hand once or twice...then stick the plugs back in....believe me the cylinders won't rust....and starting in the spring will be easy...
as I stated this is the preferred method of winterizing a small block chevie....so...follow those suggestions and what is recommended by the manufacturer and you won't have any problems....in spring commissioning ...replace the distr. cap/rotor/plugs....and the impeller...drain the rv pink stuff out of the Fresh water system..fill with about a cup of white vinegar let stand for a day..then rince and drain the water system a couple of times...you'll have a trouble free spring...... :wink:
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Old 11-06-2007, 12:17 AM   #12
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All great advice Seapuppy but I'd suggest some not necessary as this is such a new engine.

No need to even open the distributor cap in my opinion.. if the thing doesn't start its your dealers problem
plus you can inspect the plugs when you remove them to fog the cylinders (good luck.. they are a b*astard to get at in the 1800SR) if they need replacing go for it but its doubtful.

With respect to it not having salt in it yet... hmm I'd still antifreeze but yes, you could just drain it and probably be OK.

Fogging the cylinders is best rather than WD40.. you'll see when you use it if you aren't already aware of its ability to splurge EVERYWHERE!

Do you have the MPI engine or the Carb? and looking at the engine do you have a (blue) handle to the front right at the top which goes down a shaft? You should hopefully and this will allow you to drain the engine of water by simply twisting it.

Don't worry about asking questions... I have no problem responding when I have a few spare mins and quite enjoy the boat chat.. missing my Maxum!
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Old 11-06-2007, 04:35 AM   #13
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yeah...didn't mean to do off on a tangent there....my boat has an engine bay that you can move around in...so..brain farted....
don't worry bout asking questions...that's what this site is all about...to talk about our boats and learn from each other..keep pitching...we'll keep hitting them!!...
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Old 11-16-2007, 07:38 PM   #14
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[quote="seapuppy"]I'd fog the engine up after getting the AF into the engine...this will protect the cylinders and keep them from freezing up...it takes probably about a yr for the cylinders to rust up..plus you'd have to have water in the cylinder to promote rust...so fogging is the way to go....or.....and this is just as easy if your handy with a wrench....pull the spark plugs and shoot oil or wd40 into each cylinder...then turn the engine over by hand once or twice...then stick the plugs back in....quote]

Maybe I am missing something ... you fill it with antifreeze by getting the engine to suck it in while running - OK follow that.
If you then remove plugs and oil as you say ... can follow that, but the next step .. "turn engine over once or twice"
Won't this force antifreeze mix back out and leave you additional air space where the mix was ?

If you fog the engine, is removing plugs necessary ? .... I though that was the reason for fogging to put the oil in there.
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Old 11-17-2007, 12:44 AM   #15
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turning the engine over by hand won't spit the antifreeze out at all...pulling plugs out of each cylinder and spraying oil in will just coat the cylinder but won't coat all of the walls...fogging will coat the entire cylinder as well as the intake tract...but..if your engine is mpi ..then you can't fog it..it will mess up the oxygen sensors and other sensors in the intake tract.....so...imho....I'd pump or whatever method you use to get antifreeze into the engine and drive ...then...I'd pull plugs and spray oil into each cylinder and turn the engine over by hand...this will spread the oil around the cylnder....finally spray the entire engine outside with wd40 to protect the outside from rust....
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Old 11-17-2007, 10:28 AM   #16
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Quote:
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turning the engine over by hand won't spit the antifreeze out at all...pulling plugs out of each cylinder and spraying oil in will just coat the cylinder but won't coat all of the walls
Engine is a carb model so I can Fog it, and if I do that, presume no need to remove plugs.
I guess I can use a 2 stroke oil - certainly not harmful to engines, ... Mercury fogging spray (storage seal) is very expensive.
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Old 11-17-2007, 05:06 PM   #17
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ok..carbed..but use a fogging oil...maybe expensive but do it right or do it over again later!!...good luck..
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