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Old 12-13-2010, 01:28 PM   #11
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Thanks for he pics. That makes things much clearer. The bulb needs to be replaced on that light somehow, there is simply no other way around it. I also don't see any fastening system on there. I'd expect some type of fastneing system such as a an internal drive head, like a square or a Allen. I assume you tried to just unscrew the lense for the bulb? You could have a couple of screws going from the top down underneath the lense of the light.

Here is something else to think about. You need a white light that can be seen in all directions. However, nowhere does it state it has to be the same light visible from 360 degrees. Manufacturers try to make a single light that adheres to CG standard because it is cheaper from both a materials and time perspective. You could use that as a stern light and add a second to comply with 360 degree visisbility.

Just a thought.
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Old 12-13-2010, 05:06 PM   #12
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Shrew,

I've got an update. I was able to get the top plastic dome off by twisting. It has an o-ring and a plastic interlock. That exposed the lower black plastic section which has the bulb, and also 2 screws that are removed with a hex key. After taking that off, I was left with a top section of aluminum, then the plastic, then the lower aluminum welded to the tower. I can't tell for sure but I believe the aluminum sections are one piece (although I can't figure out how they got the center plastic part on).

The height of the aluminum cylinder is a hair under 4". I found a radar mount that is 4" high, so that's pretty tight, but I can shim it up with a 1/4" aluminum plate if I can find a place that can fabricate something like that. It's pretty straighforward.

So for the dome I think I'm OK, and I'll only increase the vertical profile by about 8 inches: 10" (dome) + 4" (mount) - 6 inches (original nav lite).

I'm still working on the replacement 360 degree nav light. I'm looking at a clamp that would go around the 2" tower tube, and a 20" light pole that I think would attach to that. The dual 180 degree idea is a good one, I'll think about how that might work also.
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Old 12-13-2010, 06:06 PM   #13
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I suspected that the lense was removable and the fasteners were internal. That part makes sense. What is interesting is that the white plastic piece is the EXACT same diamter as the as flange on the aluminum portion of the mount. In addition that platic piece looks very much like a spool. Earlier in the thread this was referred to a ski/wakeboard tower. Is the loop-end of the tow rope supposed to use that plastic spool like a 'towing/padeye' normally would? Obviously the plastic and aluminum piece weren't born that way. (LOL). So it must be affixed somehow. I doubt they used adhesive alone and suspect some kind of mechanical fastening.

This can't be a unique problem. I would call US Marine Tech Support and see what they say about installing an extension to the light post. They may sell something for that already.
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Old 12-13-2010, 08:53 PM   #14
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I agree it's confusing, but it seems like maybe the aluminum comes apart into two halves somehow and is milled to accomodate the plastic spool. To add to the confusion, I've attached a photo from the Maxum Owner's Manual supplement which shows the use of a tow rope, but the cylinder has no light and the top part is very short! It looks like a different configuration, but as far as I know this wasn't an option.

I don't plan on using it for towing anything, so I'd just as soon take it apart to lower the profile. It does seem worth a call to US Marine - maybe I'll give that a try.


tow pylon.jpg
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Old 12-14-2010, 04:37 PM   #15
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Awesome, so you verified my other suspicion that the plastic spool piece IS used for the tow rope portion. There is a tremendous amount of force being placed on that plastic spool when towing a skiier. That spool must have a substantial means of affixing itself to the aluminum post on the tower. I wouldn't at all be surprised if there is some internal fastening system. I see the cap in the pic you provided has a phillips head screw. It looks like it would either hold the cap in place, or run all the way through to the aluminum fame. My guess is the light fixture afixes to the same exact way.

Have you tried to completely remove the existing light? Keep us informed, I'm very curious.
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Old 12-15-2010, 03:41 PM   #16
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After I removed the plastic dome and the black plastic base, all I would have had to do was cut the wires connected to the base to remove the light. I couldn't see anything obvious that would allow me to disassemble the aluminum-plastic-aluminum piece below that, so I'm for now assuming I'll need to leave it intact, and the radar dome will have to clear it.

I have parts coming in for a new 360 degree light, but I'm not exactly sure how I'll make it work. Depends on how the wiring needs to work, and if mounting holes line up. The idea would be to mount it on one of the tower tubes and run the existing power wires over to it somehow.

So I think it's all coming together. There's always some chance for Murphy's Law to kick in, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed...
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Old 12-16-2010, 05:11 PM   #17
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Update: I emailed US Marine customer support, and here is their response:

"I have not removed the plastic spool from this arch but I would imagine it either threads down into the welded on flange or there is a molly type fitting accessible down through the bulb cover to allow it to be removed. As far as the welded on flange it would need to be cut off and a aluminium patch welded back into place. These modifications can be done by a local aluminum fab shop.

All your questions have to do with modifying something we did not have the design intent to modify when we purchased it. We are sorry if we can not provide more in dept information. "

So unfortunately it doesn't look like the assembly details are available anymore. When I remove the light, I don't see any fasteners, so I will try once more to "unscrew" the top part underneath the light assembly.
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