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Old 07-07-2016, 04:53 PM   #11
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Thanks , Found it covered in black paint from when the engine was painted new. Hard to see as it blended in.
I hope this fixes the alarms if not I am not sure where to look
Once again thanks for the help
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Old 07-14-2016, 07:04 PM   #12
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Default Still Alarms

Well, changed oil pressure switch,
Still alarms when running engine under load at 3,000 RPM on plane. only seems to come on for a few seconds and as soon as you back off the throttle it stops the alarm. Disconnected the temp alarm switch and the alarms seem to stop, however the alarm is intermittent so who knows

Disconnected new oil switch, disconnected leg oil bottle, connected temp alarm switch & still alarms.
Temp gauge never moves from 175 however using laser temp the intercooler reads 165 on the outside.
Does anyone know what temp the water temp alarm switch triggers at. (this is a new switch)
I wonder if its air pockets, (enclosed system )engine water pump, short circuit
The intercooler always seems a bit low but when I top it up the level of the overflow bottle increases. It appears that the overflow system bottle only acts as an overflow bottle as there is a top hole in the bottle so its not a sealed system sucking coolant in and out like a car overflow
Any help appreciated
Thanks
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Old 07-14-2016, 07:17 PM   #13
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So the new temp switch still causes an alarm?

Yet temp sender and helm gauge as well as IR say its good?

Sounds like either the new switch is faulty or damaged.
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Old 07-14-2016, 10:41 PM   #14
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wow what kind of boat came with that girl ?
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Old 07-16-2016, 12:47 AM   #15
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Default Cavitation

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Originally Posted by mmwjr View Post
So the new temp switch still causes an alarm?

Yet temp sender and helm gauge as well as IR say its good?

Sounds like either the new switch is faulty or damaged.
Thanks Mike. I somehow dont think it is however at this point I am not totally sure. The Engine has an enclosed San Juan Fresh water cooling system, which I notice in their instructions that they say it might take some time to get the air out of the system.
I have just installed an additional temp gauge on the temp alarm sensor location, and confirmed its accuracy with a laser temp, however I havent been able to take the boat out. Running at unloaded RPM and idle the temp seems great 150-156f, the more you rev it out of gear the more the temp decreases.
Can anyone contribute to this idea, that when the boat is on plane (usually when the alarm sounds) the brass sensor housing is probably at one of the highest points on the engine and there could possibly be air in the system which enters the brass alarm sensor location and triggers the alarm due to cavitation. I automatically back off as soon as the alarm occurs, then the alarm clears.

Any suggestions appreciated

Thanks
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Old 07-30-2017, 10:19 PM   #16
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Does anyone know at what temperature the hot engine alarm sensor triggers on a 2400 SCR, the sensor is part number WT3000 or old number WT3000P thanks
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Old 07-31-2017, 02:02 AM   #17
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Between 180 and 200. This is to hot for an open cooling system. Try using an IR temp gun to get actual temps from different points.
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Old 07-31-2017, 12:17 PM   #18
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Two comments for consideration..

1) The switches complete the circuit by providing a ground to the buzzer when tripped. So inspect the wiring to be sure that the intermittent issue isn't caused by one of the sensor wires grounding out against the block, etc.

2) Air is a poor heat conductor, so if an air pocket was making it's way thru the system to the t-stat housing/sensor you would see a drop in temp. At least that's my experience when I lost cooling and overheated. Temp went up and up, then dropped to nothing when the water boiled off in the system..
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