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Old 05-14-2010, 05:01 PM   #1
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Default Fridge problems 2300SC

New to boating and currently fixing up a few small problems I had with my 1995 2300SC. I bought this boat a few weeks ago and currently am just working through a list of small things I identified that needed attention. Had few small leaks through rub rail from dock impact that had loosened screws. Took apart and resealed cuddy window. Installed new stereo/speakers and ship/shore radio. Basically just small things that require minimal boating experience but just a little common sense and hands on ability. Now I'm at a point where I seem to be stuck. I want to install shore power for overnight trips and have battery charger run by it. Before I hook all of this up I'm trying to figure out why my fridge isn't working. I can't find anything in the manual or online that gives much information about it. Is there a switch somewhere that I'm missing? The guy that owned the boat before me said he never used it and it hadn't worked the 3 years he had the boat. (He also said the speedo hadn't worked the whole time and all i had to do to fix that was plug the hose back in on the outdrive unit.) I'm wondering if it wasn't unplugged or something. If anyone can offer some help on this I would appreciate it. How does the unit come out? I've checked all of the fuses in power panel and everything is good there? I really don't know where to go from here besides the shop.
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Old 05-14-2010, 05:20 PM   #2
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whats the brand of the fridge....take a look on the internet if you can find an owners manual and download it....is there a switch in the fridge, can you take the fridge out and look if there is power on the wires that leads to the fridge......etc. etc

but first tell us the brand of it..... maybe somebody knows what you have to do .......or do'nt

succes, ed
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Old 05-14-2010, 05:41 PM   #3
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There's got to be an accessible switch for the fridge somewhere, and a fuse for it as well, otherwise the fridge would run all the time.

Are you saying that the boat currently is not wired for shore power and you plan to add shore power? I only ask because there is a big difference between "shore power" and plugging an onboard battery charger in.

Regards,

Dan
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Old 05-14-2010, 05:51 PM   #4
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Ed,
I have the owners manual for the boat but there isn't anything about the fridge in it. My boat is in the general runabout boat category manual so there isn't much that's specific to my rig. I'm not quite sure how to remove the unit to check the wiring or I would have gone that route. The only screws i have access to are holding the small metal angle iron that appears to just be trimming out the fridge. I can try that maybe and see if it allows me access but it appears the trim and such from the counter top will not allow me to slide it out. There isn't a switch or anything inside the unit. If someone has this model boat and could just verify that it should be on all the time that the battery is on, I'll feel more validated in continuing to dig deeper. I'd hate to pull the unit out and finally determine that i missed a switch somewhere. thanks again for the help

Dan,
I'm assuming there must be a switch/fuse but i can't seem to locate it. My boat currently isn't wired for shore power. My main objective is simply to be able to use a 30a plug at the dock and have it run 20a (10/10) dual marine battery charger. I'm assuming this would be plenty to keep up with a small power inverter to run my laptop and being able to listen to stereo or using lights when docked for an overnight trip. Would you suggest another method to accomplish this? I know regular extension cords on the dock aren't good so i figured this would be an effective route to go and then just have an adapter at the house to be able to use 110/120 heavy duty extension cord to 30a plug adapter.
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Old 05-14-2010, 06:19 PM   #5
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Understood RC.

Agreed, 30A should be sufficient to run the charger and inverter, depending on load. Remember though, the only time the charger will actually draw 20A is if the batteries are completely flat so I'm betting you could get by with a "standard" size extention cord - unless it has to be very long. Think you'll also need to know how many amps the fridge will draw - but it sounds like you already know that.

Regarding the fridge. I don't know much about them, I don't have one, but many - if not all, are designed to run from both AC and DC sources but that would require specific componenents (switch panels and such) that would be present on a boat that is already wired for shore power. Your fridge may have the wiring for AC but was left unwired since you have no shore power. Regardless, has got to have an accessible switch somewhere. On the unit, in the unit (I realize you looked), at the helm, near the fuse panel, in a cabinet, behind a panel - somewhere.

If there is no switch there's only two ways it could be wired; direct to battery (or battery switch) - which means it would always be on (or on when the switch was on), or wired to the "Run" position of the ignition switch - which means anytime the engine is running so too would be the fridge. Both scenarios are un-workable.

Dan
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Old 05-15-2010, 11:25 PM   #6
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Got any pictures of your 2300? I bought a 99 2300SC last year but have no place for a fridge, I believe there is alott of difference in the years.
Would love to see yours.

WR
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Old 05-17-2010, 05:17 PM   #7
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welcome to the zoo..first off..that trim around the fridge is the only thing holding it into place....your fridge is likely a 12vdc fridge unit and sometimes they blow out a cb in it....the leads in the back of the unit should be red/black going from your dc panel under the helm to the pwr supply on the fridge......take the trim off with those 6-8 screws....then it may be easier to remove the door by removing those screws and the door...it should just slide right out after that.....it's kinda chinsy the way they installed them but the fridge isn't held in very well imho.....

take pic's...lets see what you got...

SP
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Old 05-17-2010, 11:21 PM   #8
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Thanks guys. I'll remove the trim and try to pop it out this evening. Will try to get some pics together.
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Old 05-18-2010, 07:25 PM   #9
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I think SP may be on the right track. Interesting sidenote. I had the forward bilge pump die late last year. I tried replacing it, but there was no power when I tested the lines. I tested the switch at the helm and no power there either. I traced it back to the fuse in the fuse block behind the helm. I swapped out the fuse with spare in the fuse block. STILL no power. I sepnt the next 2 hours troubleshooting. I could short the line and test the circuit and confirm the wiring itself was working. unseated and reseated the fuse, iI started getting 12 VDC on the line until I connected the pump, then......nothing. More troubleshooting.

I placed on a completely seperate fuse block and it worked fine. relocated the fuse and line to another slot on the original fuse block.....nothing. Are you ready? fuse itslef had enough oxidation on the contacts to allow 12vdc (after reseating a few times) but too much resistance to actually power the pump. I installed a brand new fuse and everythning worked fine.

Short Story........I'm getting 2 new fuse blocks, cutting and replacing the spade connectors and replacing all the fuses. The fuse block, sapde lugs and fuses themselves are all a bit corroded.

since your fridge is most likely also 12vdc, check the suses under the helm.
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Old 05-19-2010, 07:15 PM   #10
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I have a 1999 SC2300 and what looks like a refrigerator on my is actually an ice box.
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