Newb

[Drenski]

Hi there all. First of all, "thank you" in advance for all the help I know I'll be receiving.

My wife and I just purchased an old 1994 2300SR. The interior is almost perfect and the exterior is not bad either and the boat only has 340 hours on it and we purchased it from the original owner. He was a super nice guy and I don't believe he had any bad intentions.

Our first trip out we had a problem and so the boat was only in the water long enough to be launched and then reloaded about ten minutes later. Some metal on metal rubbing is what it sounded like to me and it started when I gave it some gas after floating past the buoys. I also found some water in the bilge so I'm guessing the billows and gimbal bearing need attention.

I'm looking forward to rubbing shoulders with everyone.

Eric

[mmwjr]

Welcome aboard

Where did it sound like the noise was coming from, engine or drive?

Did you check the fluid level, oil, gear lube, ...

Any other symptoms, engine get hot, gauges readings, high rpms vs slow forward motion?

If the bellows are bad the gimbal bearing and u-joints could be shot

[shrew]

Welcome aboard Drenski!!

Did you take the boat out prior to purchasing it, or did you just run it on muffs to verify it ran? Or neither?

Did the sound only occur when you put it in gear, or while it was running, or only when you turned the wheel all the way one way or the other?

Does the sound change only if you advance the throttle?

[Drenski]

Thanks for the replies. I really appreciate it.

We ran the boat with the muffs prior to sale. When I launched the boat, everything seemed to be working fine. I motored around in the wakeless area for about five minutes with no problems but when I gave it a little gas once outside the wakeless area is when the noise started. I didn't romp on it or anything, just gave it some more gas. The noise is present whether or not the boat is in gear and it has a rhythm that is constant with the rpm speed of the engine. It is not louder or quieter with a change in the rpm or when I turn the steering wheel.

[Skip R Maxum]

forget my original posted comments.... Now see this thread is 3 pages.

[mmwjr]

The trim sender is on the side of the gimbal ring on the outside of the transom assembly. Either the wires are broken off of it or it's bad internally. The easiest time to replace these is when replacing the bellows as the wires penetrate in a none easy to reach place.

The choke plate should not be fully closed when set it should be about a pencil width open. There are 3 screws on the electric choke housing, loosen then to rotate it to set the choke. If you have to close the choke totally to get it to start the idle setting is probably to lean.

[Drenski]

Thanks mmwjr. I will look into it. It also might explain why I can usually get it started at my house which is a lower altitude than the lake. Am I right in assuming there's a mixture screw on the carb somewhere? Where would that be?

Thanks again for all the assistance.

[mmwjr]

The mixture screws are on the front of the carb down near the base plate.

If altitude is to high at the lake the carb may need to be jetted differently. I would ask other boaters at the lake if they had to make any changes.

[Kevlar7r]

Sounds like you diagnosed it, bellows, u-joint and gimbal bearing.



Drain your drive oil. Look for evidence of water. The upper seal is not designed to keep water out of the drive, so if you have failed bellows, there could be water in the drive.

[mmwjr]

Originally Posted by Kevlar7r

Sounds like you diagnosed it, bellows, u-joint and gimbal bearing.



Drain your drive oil. Look for evidence of water. The upper seal is not designed to keep water out of the drive, so if you have failed bellows, there could be water in the drive.

+1 what Kev said

[Drenski]

Ok. I'm on it. We're camping now so I'll have to take a look at it on Tuesday. I'm looking forward to tearing into it. I kind of like this sort of thing.

Thanks everyone.

[Kevlar7r]

Gimbal bearing and bellows require special tools, and the bearing has to be aligned. I am a hardcore do-it-yourselfer, but that's a job I won't do it myself.

[Drenski]

If anything, I can remove the outdrive and reinstall it later and save some money. Yeah, I'll leave the gimbal bearing and aligning to the shop. The boat has 340 hours on it and from what I know, it's time to check the alignment anyway.

I'll keep you all informed as to what happens.

[Kevlar7r]

I would drain the drive before you pull it. 2 reasons. 1. That takes off a small amount of weight so you don't have to carry it. 2. Unless you have a stand for it, it'll be a real pain to drain and fill while its off the boat.



1994, im betting that is an alpha drive. I would suggest splitting the drive and doing an impeller while you are draining it anyway.

[Drenski]

Sounds good Kev. I'm looking forward to starting this and seeing what I end up with.

Lets pretend for a moment. Is it possible to install a Bravo dual prop on this boat?

[mmwjr]

Originally Posted by Drenski

Sounds good Kev. I'm looking forward to starting this and seeing what I end up with.

Lets pretend for a moment. Is it possible to install a Bravo dual prop on this boat?

To switch to any Bravo you would need to remove the engine, replace transom assembly with a bravo one, install an inboard raw water pump, add Bravo drive.

[Kevlar7r]

Possible, but not practical.

[Drenski]

Ok then. I guess we'll stick with the Alpha drive. Is the dual prop that much better?

[mmwjr]

The B3 dual props provide torque canceling that limits slow speed wander in single engine boats and provides more bite. If you want the benefits of it buy a boat with it already installed unless you planning on a repower with all new package, but you have to plan to keep the boat for a long time to recover the cost.

[Kevlar7r]

What Mike said, but, the benefits are all low speed. There is a big trade off on top speed, drag and weight.