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Old 05-18-2014, 01:33 PM   #31
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OK Alpha 1 Gen 2.

I am a little concerned about the rust on the port side of the block as there may be a crack above.

Do you have a pair of muffs that fit around the water intake on the outdrive and connects to a hose to cool the engine? If so you may want to try using the battery from you car if not to much trouble before buying one on your budget only to discover bigger issues.
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Old 05-18-2014, 06:03 PM   #32
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I have some new mufs, and I also have a friend with a marine battery I may be able to borrow.

I was wondering if their is anything I should spray into the cylinders to lubricant them before trying to start it.

Another question is about the fuel that was left in the boat durring the past 2 years. The battery is shot but it still has enough juice to activate the gages, . Luckily the fuel guage shows that the tank is empty but im wondering how much fuel would be left in it. And should I drain what ever is left in the tank out of it?

And whats the easiest way to go about draining the tank?

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Old 05-18-2014, 06:17 PM   #33
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You don't need a marine specific battery to star the engine. The marine batteries are deep cycle used for the house battery.


I would try starting it using a portable gas can first. If the tank is empty add some Sta-Bil and a full load of fuel if the engine runs... Run on the tank for a while and then change the fuel filter.
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Old 05-18-2014, 06:26 PM   #34
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As Phillbo said and I think i suggest earlier use a gas can with fresh gas. Remove the small gas line at the tank end that runs to the engine and put it into the gas can with fresh gas. Remove the the spark plugs and add a small amount of engine oil to each cylinder. Remove the coil wire and crank the engine for a few seconds, then re-install the wire and try to start the engine. Don't forget to have the muffs on with the water running.

PS: one of my earlies post told you how to drain the tank.
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Old 05-19-2014, 02:41 PM   #35
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If cracking due to freezing you might not see them on the exterior of the block. I'd expect they fracture the water jackets and crack internally. This is why you would see the coffee with cream color, but not dump oil or water into the bilge.
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Old 05-19-2014, 04:19 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shrew View Post
If cracking due to freezing you might not see them on the exterior of the block. I'd expect they fracture the water jackets and crack internally. This is why you would see the coffee with cream color, but not dump oil or water into the bilge.
if this were the case I would expect that by now the water would have melted and be in the oil pan and he would just see a high reading on the dip stick as the engine has not been ran since. Milkey color comes from water/oil/heat.

To my knowledge the thinest part of a block is the water jacket wall to the outside and not internal, but stranger things have happened.
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Old 05-20-2014, 09:20 PM   #37
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Sorry I have been so busy and I have not been able to test the engine out yet. I am hoping to get to it this weekend, that is if weather and time permits. Thanks so much for all the useful info so far. :-)

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Old 05-21-2014, 01:18 AM   #38
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Green horn! I did not know this was a crabbing fleet
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Old 05-21-2014, 01:43 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr View Post
if this were the case I would expect that by now the water would have melted and be in the oil pan and he would just see a high reading on the dip stick as the engine has not been ran since. Milkey color comes from water/oil/heat.

To my knowledge the thinest part of a block is the water jacket wall to the outside and not internal, but stranger things have happened.
You would certainly know better than me. disregard my previous statement. I'd defer to MMWJR on this one. I think I'm confusing manifold and riser failure.
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Old 06-16-2014, 04:00 PM   #40
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Throttle Linkage Adjustment. Buy a repair manual
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