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Old 06-04-2015, 03:00 PM   #21
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If your tank was empty, then you more than likely simply have air in the line. Sometimes it takes a while to work all the air out. Run the cold side only on the transom shower until it flows freely. Then repeat on the hot side. It'll bang and rattle while it's working the air out. Once its flowing freely, let it run for a few minutes. You'd be surprised how long it takes to work all the air out sometimes. Once that is done, re-bleed the other faucets again to make sure its all out.
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Old 06-04-2015, 03:15 PM   #22
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Your is different from mine. ... But yes that is the shut off on yours. ... You will have to experiment with it to see which way is open and closed. ... You could also unscrew the house from the handle (be careful not too loose any washers or orings if you do) you could then blow thru the end of the handle and swith the button back and forth to see. The transom faucet is the furthest from the holding tank and pump so give it some time to bleed the air out.
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Old 06-04-2015, 03:35 PM   #23
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If your tank was empty, then you more than likely simply have air in the line. Sometimes it takes a while to work all the air out. Run the cold side only on the transom shower until it flows freely. Then repeat on the hot side. It'll bang and rattle while it's working the air out. Once its flowing freely, let it run for a few minutes. You'd be surprised how long it takes to work all the air out sometimes. Once that is done, re-bleed the other faucets again to make sure its all out.
Shrew, thanks for the info. I will bleed it for a while and do so for the others as well.
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Old 06-04-2015, 03:38 PM   #24
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Your is different from mine. ... But yes that is the shut off on yours. ... You will have to experiment with it to see which way is open and closed. ... You could also unscrew the house from the handle (be careful not too loose any washers or orings if you do) you could then blow thru the end of the handle and swith the button back and forth to see. The transom faucet is the furthest from the holding tank and pump so give it some time to bleed the air out.
Thanks again for the info 0Gravity! I will try that out. From what I can tell though it is actually the closest to the pump and the holding tank. According to the owners manual its seems to be laid out that way. We'll find out. Thanks again!
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Old 06-04-2015, 05:03 PM   #25
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Thanks for the info Baby Blue. Im assuming your answer concerning the valve being turned on for the AC is still only for the purposes of using the AC and has nothing to do with the faucet water?
yes.. that is FYI for your AC.
as for hot water I only have a holding tank with a heating element. Mine doesn't heat from the engine.
look for lines going from engine to tank.
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Old 06-04-2015, 06:03 PM   #26
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yes.. that is FYI for your AC.
as for hot water I only have a holding tank with a heating element. Mine doesn't heat from the engine.
look for lines going from engine to tank.
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Thanks for clearing that up Baby Blue! While on the boat last night I did see that there was a breaker for the hot water heater. So that must mean there is a heating element somewhere and is most likely not heated by the engine. Thanks again!
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Old 06-04-2015, 06:22 PM   #27
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The fact that their is a breaker does not mean it's not plumbed to provide hot water when the engine is running. Mine has both capabilities. Next time you go for a cruise, check to see if you are getting hot water after running the engine for a while.
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Old 06-04-2015, 06:29 PM   #28
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The fact that their is a breaker does not mean it's not plumbed to provide hot water when the engine is running. Mine has both capabilities. Next time you go for a cruise, check to see if you are getting hot water after running the engine for a while.
Good to know. I will try this next time I'm out. Thanks Phillbo!
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Old 06-05-2015, 01:49 PM   #29
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The fact that their is a breaker does not mean it's not plumbed to provide hot water when the engine is running. Mine has both capabilities. Next time you go for a cruise, check to see if you are getting hot water after running the engine for a while.
Agreed. The hotwater tank is going to be either electric only. Electric and engine (or electric and engine option, but the engine is not connected (like mine).

If there is a breaker, there at least used to be a hot water heater. It will be in the engine compartment. You can't miss it, it'll be either a large metal cube or a cylinder and will have 2 water lines (cold IN, and hot OUT).

There may be hoses from the water heater to the engine as well.
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Old 06-09-2015, 10:53 PM   #30
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So I found that the pump is working fine. However, the reason no water was coming from the aft shower was due to the fact that all the water had leaked out.

There are two hoses coming out of the fresh water tank. One is a plastic blue tube and the other is a metallic braided looking hose that you typically find on a household faucet. Both of them are leaking at the exact same type of fitting.

Would these have been loosened for winterization purposes? Do they just need to be tightened down or do they need to be replaced. I will post a video and picture later.
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Old 06-10-2015, 12:12 AM   #31
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So I found that the pump is working fine. However, the reason no water was coming from the aft shower was due to the fact that all the water had leaked out.

There are two hoses coming out of the fresh water tank. One is a plastic blue tube and the other is a metallic braided looking hose that you typically find on a household faucet. Both of them are leaking at the exact same type of fitting.

Would these have been loosened for winterization purposes? Do they just need to be tightened down or do they need to be replaced. I will post a video and picture later.

Could have been removed to winterized. All you can do is see if they are loose.
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Old 06-10-2015, 12:21 AM   #32
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All you can do is see if they are loose.

Guess I am studdering, did not think the last post worked.
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Old 06-10-2015, 12:49 PM   #33
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I guess I could only upload the image. There are black circles (hard to see) around each leak. Any more suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Again Not sure if they are just loose or need to be replaced? Thanks again!
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image1.PNG  
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Old 06-10-2015, 01:48 PM   #34
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Well, first of all, that is the water heater, not the fresh water tank.



Those appear to be compression fittings, so they have to be tight to not leak. It is possible someone opened them to drain the water heater, but, you would typically drain it using the drain valve on the tank itself. That drain valve is right behind the blue pipe in your picture, below the hot water outlet from the tank.
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Old 06-10-2015, 01:49 PM   #35
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If they are not loose you will probably need to replace the fittings and re - plumb some of the piping! If you do look into Sharkbite fittings at Home depot, they will work with your existing piping.
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Old 06-10-2015, 02:39 PM   #36
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I believe they are PEX water lines so make sure you get the proper fittings. You don't want to use metal ferrules. I'm not sure if they make shark bite for pex but it's possible. I would just get compression pex. Box stores should have it.
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Old 06-10-2015, 02:45 PM   #37
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Sharkbite and Pex are like peas and carrots! I replumbed my entire guest house with it. Best thing ever. Pex works with both compression and sharkbite fittings. Sharkbite are more expensive, but much easier.
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Old 06-10-2015, 03:00 PM   #38
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interesting and good to know. I use the shark bites to cap off sink supplies when doing kitchen renovations. I mostly deal with copper but good to know I can use that on pex if it comes up. shark bites are a great invention! nothing worse than trying to solder a cap or valve when it's difficult to get all the water out of the line. never had much luck with the bread trick..
anyway.... thanks for the info. learn something new every day they say.
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Old 06-10-2015, 03:12 PM   #39
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The bread trick has worked for me in the past.



You can see in his picture that the pex is red and blue. Its now the same price as the plain white pex, so I plumbed the whole place color coded. Easiest plumbing I've ever done. Drill with a 1" bit, and a tubing cutter, and I plumbed the whole 500sqft building with 6 fixtures by myself in about 4 hours.
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Old 06-10-2015, 03:38 PM   #40
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As stated that is the hot water heater. The hoses may have been removed to by-pass the heater when winterized so the heater not to use as much anti-freeze and the heater was just drained. First see if you can tighten them and if not the others have provided info to repair.

BTY the braided line is not marine and is on the Hot side of the plumbing, should not be an issue just letting you know.
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