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Old 08-20-2019, 03:12 PM   #1
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Default Was there a standard prop for my 2003 2700?

I'm about to pull my boat out of the water to do some drive maintenance. I know that my boat currently has a 20P DuoProp on the B3. I have the 350 MAG MPI engine. I'm going to have to get some work done on the Prop, but wanted to make sure that prop was sized correctly before I put some money it it. I think my last boat, 24 stingray 240CS, had a 24p. I don't know the gear ratio of the B3. I'll have to get that info when I pull it next week.

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Jeremy
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Old 08-20-2019, 03:43 PM   #2
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Don't know what size it came with but the Bravo 3 will have prop set of 2 counter rotating props. BTY DuoProp is a Volvo trademark name.
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Old 08-20-2019, 04:57 PM   #3
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Are you reaching the 4600-500 WOT with your normal load onboard?
If so, you have the right prop. Small imperfections will vary the max RPM slightly, but unless they are really beat up you should be able to determine if they are a match to the boat by testing them before investing.

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Old 08-20-2019, 05:43 PM   #4
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I'm not able to get to WOT. It boggs down around 3100-3500. I've only changed the plugs and checked the fuel line check ball valve at this point.

I sent an email to mercury today to see if my boat is compatible with Vessel View. I think my boat is just in or just missed the city for that. I would like to know if there are any engine codes.

I'm not sure if the prop is stock or if it was changed at some point.

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Old 08-20-2019, 07:05 PM   #5
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Mercury just emailed me back and they stated that by boat is fully smartcraft compatible. I'm ordering the Vessel View Mobile kit right now just to have more information.
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Old 08-20-2019, 09:17 PM   #6
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Since itís been in the water for awhile are you certain the bottom has no marine growth? This will impact performance
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Old 08-20-2019, 10:11 PM   #7
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We had the bottom cleaned the day that I took ownership. It helped a little but still bogs down at the same RPM range.

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Old 08-21-2019, 09:56 AM   #8
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Smart move to verify the engine is performing properly. Only reaching 3100 or so would need approx reduction in pitch by 5+ which my gut tells me is way to low for your application.

Include a compression check in your list of diagnostics. Seems like you may not be making the power expected from your 350.
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Old 08-21-2019, 02:18 PM   #9
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Compression numbers were all between 160 and 170psi on a warm engine. I'm hoping that is okay. I did pull the rotor and I feel like there are signs of corrosion on the points. I'm not sure if that would make the difference I'm seeing considering that the boat seems to run fine up until it gets over 3000 RPMS. I decided to order the cap and rotor so that I could check it off the list.

I placed my order for the Vessel View Mobile yesterday. My main reason for purchasing it is to see if there are any engine codes. It does appear to offer some nice features beyond that though.

I wanted to test the TPS yesterday, but I think i need a second person to help move the throttle while I probe the sensor. I'm not sure if the sensor could be the issue or not, but that would be a nice easy fix if so.

I probably should have continued this in my Can't get on plane thread, but I was thinking it would stick to props so sorry about that. If an admin has a way to merge them, feel free.

Thanks for everyone's help so far.
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Old 08-21-2019, 04:21 PM   #10
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I recall another member "iceman" had a similar issue that took him over a year to resolve. If I recall it ended up being the crank position sensor. Try looking at his threads.
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Old 08-21-2019, 05:33 PM   #11
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Thanks, I read his thread and will test that sensor assuming I can. That's good info and I think I showed you guys in the past, but maybe I didn't. This boat took on about a foot of water or so in the bilge at one time before I owned it so maybe that sensor got submerged? Not sure, just a thought.

I'm curious about two other things. There is a port on the "crab style" distributor with nothing plugged in. Is that normal?

The other thing is that I noticed yesterday that the mercathode is disconnected. I'm not sure why and if I should just try plugging it in to see what happens.
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Old 08-21-2019, 09:36 PM   #12
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Regarding the distributor is there a connector laying there that would plug in? Can you post a picture. Shouldnít hurt to reconnect the mercathode but I would keep an eye on it.
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Old 08-21-2019, 10:31 PM   #13
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Here is a picture. I didnt see a plug, but it was still 100 degrees outside when I checked so I was ready to get out of the engine room.

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Old 08-21-2019, 10:32 PM   #14
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I thought it was just used to connect a jumper to set timing, but cant find where I read that at now.

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Old 08-22-2019, 12:08 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golfwins View Post
I thought it was just used to connect a jumper to set timing, but cant find where I read that at now.

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The jumper is for the Thunderbolt V ignition, you have MPI which is a different system. It may be a test port, Iíll see if I have any information on it.
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Old 08-22-2019, 12:18 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr View Post
Regarding the distributor is there a connector laying there that would plug in? Can you post a picture. Shouldnít hurt to reconnect the mercathode but I would keep an eye on it.
If I plug the mercathode in, what should I look out for? It stays plugged into shore power when not in use so I dont think it will drain the battery. Anything else to keep an eye on? Smoke... Haha? I really have no clue.

I dont have a test lead to drop in the water. I may order one though. I think I read the test lead needs to be zinc for freshwater. Which is kind of odd since the anodes need to be magnesium. I think I'm correct on the lead.

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Old 08-22-2019, 02:05 AM   #17
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Really not sure, it was disconnected for a reason Iím guessing. Have a mechanic verify itís function before leaving it activated.
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Old 08-25-2019, 03:14 PM   #18
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I pulled some engine codes this morning. I'm going to post the screen shots on the original engine issue thread.

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