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Old 09-19-2011, 10:25 PM   #1
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Default shrink wrappers unite

Hey fellow shrink wrappers........

I have a 2001 3000SCR that for the first time I am going to shrink wrap for the lay-up season.

We have a fellow dock member that has a gun and buys the wrap and all we do is get it ready to be covered ( plus pay him for what we use)and that is my question or seeking advice which way to go.

I have a boating friend that has done this for years and he used to use 2x4's, but now swears with the PVC pipe. He uses the PVC pipe with a toilet flange at top to secure the strapping. I know they make a black round piece that fits onto a 2x4 that is used for the strapping connection. I have an idea of using the pipe or 2x4 in a vertical position. I am just curious as is the lay-out of all this. So hit me with all your pictures and suggestions. Also what to do about going over the arch with the wrap? They say a picture is worth a thousand bucks........I'll get the checkbook out..........

Thanks

Roger
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Old 09-20-2011, 12:23 AM   #2
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There are many techniques to use and I've done both shrink wrap and a tarp with good results. Either way I start with 2x4's running down the center of the boat with cut antifreeze bottle bottoms at the top of the posts. Then I run a rope line from bow to stern attached (with staples) to the top of the 2x4's for support. You can add more rope or wood to the rails for additional support. The middle should be the high point so snow/rain will slide off. My support 2x4 is higher than the arch so I just drape the wrap over the top, tie it down and your set. Good luck...
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Old 09-20-2011, 01:16 PM   #3
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I prefer 2 x 4's over PVC. I'm going to take some pics of my setup and upload them shortly. AS a matter of fact, I plan on ahuling and starting the process this weekend. I'll try to take pics of the entire process and upload it.
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Old 09-20-2011, 01:49 PM   #4
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If I could I would come over and help just to get the experience.............thanks
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Old 09-20-2011, 04:17 PM   #5
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Here is a good placw to order materials:

http://www.dr-shrink.com/shrinkwrap

Parts List:

Shrink Wrap: Shrinkwrap comes in thicknesses measured in mil. (Typically 6 ~ 10). The heavier the snow/ice load, the heavier the mil. Use heavier mil for long term, multi-year storage as well. I believe I use a 7 mil. and store my boat in CT.

End Caps: These are for the tops of the 2 x 4's. I recommend these over rags, bottle bottoms, etc because they will work better with the 'woven cord strapping' and more easily make a strong support sytem.

Woven Cord Strapping: This is used for several purposes. It acts like 'stays' on a sailboat mast to hold the 2 x 4 supports upright. It is also run along the tops of the 2 x 4's to make a 'ridge beam' to support the shrink wrap itself. It is also used as the 'belly strap' for the perimeter along the hull and to hold the belly strap up and level, as well as underneath the hull to hold the belly strap and bottom of the shrink wrap from pulling up and flapping.

(All of this will make more sense when I start posting pics.


Shrink Wrap Tape: This is used to tape up holes, the zipper door, and seal any folded seams which might catch water. DO NOT confuse shrinkwrap tape with shrinkwrap. Shrinkwrap tape should be used once the heat shrinking is completed. Shrinkwrap tape does not shrink. In fact if you tape first, then shrink the tape will tear the shrink wrap.

NOTE: Preservation Tape is shrinkwrap tape that can be stuck onto fiberglass. It does not leave an adhesive behind. In most cases you will only need shrinkwrap tape. If for any reason you need to afix tape directly to the fiberglass, then use preservation tape instead. This can be used to tape rags, towels, carpet etc to the boat to cover sharp corners or edges which might otherwise tear the shrinkwrap due to wear over time.

RAGS, Carpet, etc: You will have many sharp points on the boat which need chaffe protection to keep from tearing through the shrink wrap. the corners of windshields, snaps on the radar arch, etc. Anything that can potentially punch a hole in the shrinkwrap, will. The wrap can touch fiberglass, hand rails, etc, but if anything has a sharp edge or point, it needs to be covered before the shrinkwrap goes on.

Box Cutter/Shrink Wrap Knife: Needed to cut woven cord strapping, shrink wrap and shrink wrap tape. Also good for cutting carpet, rags, and the box the materials come in.

ShrinkWrap Gun: This goes without saying.

Propane: You'll need the 15-20 lb tank. More than likely won't need all of it.

Vents: These allow air flow, they are NECESSARY

Zipper Door: You need a way to get on and off the boat. All I can say here is get the largest door available. the bigger the better. No matter how large it will still feel like you're crawling into a dog house. Tip: I hang my door upside-down. That is to say, I hang my door so that when the door is unzipped, it is hanging from the top. When you hang it right side up, the door flops down when it is unzipped and you will be constantly stepping on it and it will generaly be in the way. (I'll send pics so this makes more sense).

2 x 4's: 5ea. 2 x 4 x 8. I'll take pics of how I made mine.

Carpet Remnants: These will be used to cover the base of the 2 x 4 stands to protect the deck.
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Old 09-20-2011, 04:23 PM   #6
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TIPS:

DO NOT, under any circumstances allow the shrinkwrap to touch the ground. It generates a static field and dirt, sand, grass, etc will cling to the shrinkwrap. Once you heat the shrinkwrap with a heat gun, anywhere there is dirt the shrink wrap will tear instantly. You will spend a huge amount of time trying to fix these holes. Many of them will be very small pinholes, others will tear large holes. Expect to double the project time if you lay the shrinkwrap on the ground.

I place the shrink wrap box on the swim platform and pull out what I need similar to a roll of tin foil or plastic wrap in the kitchen. The shrink is folded many times. I pull out the length of what I need over the boat as I go, then cut to length, leaving extra, then unfold all on the boat. I strongly suggest you wash the boat just prior to wrapping and make sure it is dried before you start the wrapping process.

Pictures and detailed instructions to follow.
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Old 09-20-2011, 04:27 PM   #7
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BTW- I figured out the cost to have a boat shrinkwrapped vs. doing it yourself and came back with an ROI of 3 years. In other words, the cost of materials and the gun is equal to 3 years worth of hiring someone to do it for you. Since this is a 1/yr. job, consider finding 2 boating friends to split the cost of the gun and materials with you. Then you can help each other out each fall. Then the ROI si more like 1 yr.
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Old 09-21-2011, 04:28 PM   #8
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shrew................Thank you so much.........this has helped alot!

Roger
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Old 09-21-2011, 04:57 PM   #9
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NP. Additional tip: If you have radar, then remove it from the arch. The pressure exerted by the shrink wrap can damage the radar. If it is an open radar, then the motor and drive can be damaged. If it is a dome, the domw itself can crack. The radar needs to come down. You don't need to remove it completely. I unbolt my dome and rest it on the arch. My radar mount is taller than the radar itself. I lash the dome to the arch and run the corded strapping over the mount. It keeps the shrink wrap off of the dome itself. It you don't have a mount tall enough, then rig something to suspect the radar UNDER the arch. Otherwise you will need to remove it completely.
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Old 10-15-2011, 11:38 PM   #10
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Got this done today with 30 mile winds.........if the wind dies down tomorrow will shrink wrap.

Thanks to a very good friend and with his help I think we got it done.


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Old 10-16-2011, 05:23 PM   #11
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well.....

since i have deprecating item such as a boat, a $148 homedepot 30'x 50' tarp is my solution.

I let the tarp hang into the bow rails with a nice drain hole that gutters the snow and ice off the bow over the side.

I wrapped and tread the eyelets, the boat looks like a blue corset.

All canvas stays on with no rubbing, and the tarp flaps under the boat in the wind for ventilation.

We do get a few 12" snows here, but it blows off the top just as fast, and the bow melts in the first sun.

you can spend $10 to $15 a foot, but seams like gas money to me.



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Old 10-16-2011, 10:35 PM   #12
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The finish product. Started at 8 this morning and got got done around 3 this afternoon. Plus one door and six vents. Costs right under $200.00. Let it snow!

I am enjoying my beer at home now


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Old 10-17-2011, 11:31 AM   #13
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i saw there are a lot of films on you tube how to do it yourself......(maybe something for next year......)

greatz, ed
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Old 10-17-2011, 01:21 PM   #14
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Ed.........I had a couple of goood friends that were great teachers on this. The first friend showed me how to make the frame and the second friend showed me how to put the wrap on and used the heat gun. Other than putting the ladder (8 footer)inside the bed of my truck so I could get to the top of the boat to use the heat gun, it was fairly easy.

And thanks to shrew for all his great info too.

Roger
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Old 10-17-2011, 02:33 PM   #15
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Looks like a job well done, Roger.
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Old 10-28-2011, 01:19 PM   #16
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Thanks 7.........Just an update........had enough wrap left over to do our jetski. Used a $20.00 Harbor Frieght heat gun to heat up the shrink wrap. Not as quick as the gas gun would be but I got-er done!

Roger
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Old 11-03-2011, 03:30 AM   #17
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Just another update...........finally took the advice of our ole friend Bella Sera(Jeff)and took advantage of Jamestown Supply's sale and no shipping charges (ended tonight) by buying a shrink wrap gun. Great price on the shrinkfast gun. I will be ready for next year.......

Roger
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Old 11-03-2011, 03:38 AM   #18
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Roger, tell Jeff to stop in here and say hello once in a while.......
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