I'm not a memeber of the the first church of prop-ology but here are a few general guide line which i've picked up:
1. the main point is to get maxium horse power in the water.
2. most engine horse power curves, show horse power declining above 4600 rpm... by design of the engine. Meaning, if your turning more then 4600 your just buring gas for little effect.
3. The boat prop and your mechincal should WOT (wide open throttle) to match your boat loading condition and use for the maxium horse power curve of the engine... 4600rpm.
4. the stock props are for general use, like the new tires on your new car. (works for pulling a skier, works for 10 fat people, works for fuel eccomy, works for top speed)
5. there are 3 version of bravo III with 3 diffrent gear ratios, 1.81:1, 2:00:1 to 2.20:1 and i think a new 2.43:1, so that also effect the prob to HP ratio, so a higher ratio and a bigger prob could really cause problems.
So, 22 degree probs v.s 24 degree probs can give you more bite in the water, and push you further at 4600, but kill you on the low end getting up on plane, or pulling a skier.
Larger diameter probs sounds like a good idea, but your increasing the load on the engine throughout the power HP curve, and most time over load the engine at the wrong RPM as designed, and result in a blown head gasket. ( Like flooring your car at every green light, maxium load to the wheels, but on a boat maxium load to the prob.... same effect).
Bigger boat with more engine with a single prob, or one engine with a bravo III, still have equal performace becasue your hauling the ice maker around and full size frig.
So, end result is, if it works don't fix it, and like those out drive "whale tails", if it worked they would install it at the factory....