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Old 10-31-2005, 10:01 PM   #1
Ensign
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 3
Default New Guy - 2100sc

Hi all,

Just found this place and I hope it takes off. There's limited info on Maxums out there beyond the factory site so I'm happy to share what (little) I know about my boat.

Purchased a new leftover MY 2003 2100SC in April 2004 so I have 2 full seasons under my belt with it. Few if any issues so far and it covers my boating needs for now. Wants are a different story of course...

Mods to the boat include a 4blade aluminum prop this last summer which helped a too-high WOT rpm situation. I was hitting the rev limiter easily with the as-delivered 19p 3 blade. I currently have a 20p 4 blade that I'm happy with.

Also this last summer I installed Lenco trim tabs which slightly helped the ride quality of the boat. Due to its shallow deadrise I was getting some uncomfortable pounding in even 2' waves. The trim tabs helped slightly but for other 2100 owners I would not recommend buying any kind of tabs. I think in this boat weight distribution and speed makes a bigger difference than forcing the bow down on this particular hull.

Anyway, glad to be here and looking forward to sharing more about my Max

-2003 2100SC
-5.0 MPI Merc/Alpha
-Pumpout porta potti
-Sport Seating/Premium package
-Yellow kingplank exterior
-Flip up buckets
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Old 11-07-2005, 01:30 PM   #2
Lt. Commander
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Springfield Virginia
Posts: 142
Default tabs

Great to hear from another 2100sc owner. Mine is a 2004 model and like yourself, I have had rides that are far too bumpy. I am considering the lenco tabs, since my wife will only sit in the very back. What size tab did you install?

I have two sites where I post information. One, http://www.maxumowners.org/Smaller2100SC.html
has lots of information on Maxum's of all sizes. My own personal site is http://SempreVeloce.tripod.com and I post various fixes on this site as well as pictures from the Potomac.

This week ends the season so it's off to shrink-wrap city..

KKKKFL
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Old 11-07-2005, 09:50 PM   #3
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Lk Stevens, WA
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Welcome Loan $hark We have enjoyed ours since 2000 and no complaints so far except not enough drink holders installed.
Live in WA and use the Maxum up in Lake Chelan.
-2000 2100SCZ
-5.7 MPI/mag 300 /Bravo
-Pumpout porta potti - Removed
-Sport Seating/Premium package

Franco I see our seating is completely different from yours. I now know what you were talking about in an email you sent this summer concerning your back seat slipping out- nice fix and site.

Ours has two swiveling buckets up front with a one-piece bench in the back. The engine cover is one large tip up sun pad.
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1999 3788 Alrighty Then Port of Everett
2000 2100SCZ Maxum Lake Chelan
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Old 11-07-2005, 09:57 PM   #4
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Old 11-08-2005, 04:25 PM   #5
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Springfield Virginia
Posts: 142
Default 2100sc

I plan to post the corrected wiring diagram. One of my most recent fixes was to utilize the accessory switches. If you look in the owners manual, you will see that the electrical diagram for our boat is wrong. It will show a 14 fuse (7x7) arrangement but on looking at the actual fuse block you will note only ten. Also on mine, at least, none of the accessory switches would operate. This was due to the hot lead being disconnected from the fuse block and all negative ( earth ) side wires were off the switch assembly. When you flip an accessory switch to the on position the bulb in the toggle switch should lite up. Mine didn't and this was the first clue. At present, I have the CD/radio wired through an accessory switch so no passer by can turn it on from the remote while in the boat yard. I also put the Co2 sensor on a switch since it is not required during the week while stored. (probably violates some govm't reg.) Actually, I would like to put in a total battery switch in the back, but first I have to do something about the useless doors that cannot be opened unless the rear access hatch across the back is lifted. I'm open to suggestions as to how to fix these doors. I will tell you that the engine is starved for clean air when in WOT. To prove this just drop the engine hatch while underway at top speed and you will notice a 2 to 3 hundred increase in RPM.

KKKKFL
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Old 11-08-2005, 09:16 PM   #6
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All my accy switches were powered. I use all 3 of them.
1. Wired to aditional 12v outlets into the cuddy
2. Have a 300w amp.
3. VHF radio

If you going to add a battery switch might as well add a second battery as well. First thing I did.

Don't have the problem with air starving. The space under our sun pad/engine hatch is huge with 4 vents above the swim step!
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Old 11-08-2005, 10:04 PM   #7
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Default vents

I have those same 4 vents, but believe you will find they only operate when the blower is on. 2 vents bring air in while the other 2 are the exhaust. If you have the engine hatch in the front, try opening it while zipping along at WOT and apart from the extra engine noise, you too might be amazed!!!!

You should have a 4th acc switch on the left of the steering wheel. The right side has 3 where the "A" label is an accessory switch but they ran out of space for letters.

KKKKFL
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Old 11-08-2005, 11:17 PM   #8
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Nope the forth switch is what is used to set the depth alarm on the factory installed guage on ours.

Our engine compartment is the total with of the boat, it doesn't bump out like yours. Yep one vent has the blower exaust attached to it the other three left open.

If you can see the drawing above - the engine hatch runs the whole width of the boat. The sun pad is one piece and attaches to the back of the full lenght bench. It lifts on hydrolic cylinders as one unit. Push the button and open that at WOT and you have a drag shute :shock:
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Old 11-09-2005, 11:22 AM   #9
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That's quite a difference with the switches. I'm not sure how an on/off switch sets depth alarm, unless you are saying it is used to turn the audible beeping on and off. I went through quite a bit to get the wiring diagram from Maxum, and I am beginning to understand why. On mine it was so confusing that the dealer refused/ignored my request to put the VHF through a switch. When I got up under the dash, all acc switches had their leads pulled off. This year I am finally getting it back to operating order. Thanks for the data on just how yours is wired. Just clarify it for me a bit. The switch at the very right most position, with the letter "A" is being used to turn the audible alarm on and off? Is up audio on and down audio off?

Thanks

KKKKFL
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Old 11-09-2005, 05:39 PM   #10
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On ours 8 total switches! all marked- I try and get this right
3 Accy
1 Nav
1 Anchor
1 Courtesy light
1 Gauge lights
1 Depth gauge - On ours the only thing on the dash is the digital read out. The switch is a monetarily on/off/on. It used to set the depth both shallow and deep alarms!
I know you have had trouble with your Fuse panel but our's was correct and all the accy. swiches had power to them from the fuse block.
Made all my install easy- I can see were you are having problems!
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Old 11-17-2005, 06:58 PM   #11
Ensign
 
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Been awhile since I checked back in here - the trim tabs I have are the Lenco 12x12 edge mount racing tabs. Installation wasn't too bad, did it myself in a day moving very slowly.

For what it's worth my boat's electrical all matched the wiring diagram I have. All my switches were active as delivered - although I don't remember offhand the fuse box layout. One thing I noted during the trim tab install was a plastic harness connector between the gauges and the main harness. This connector worked itself loose during the tab install and I lost all gauge functions. After finding the connector had separated (male-female friction fit with no clip or lock) I re-connected the harness and zip tied the connector together. This connector lives at the very top right hand side of the dash and is somewhat hard to reach.

Also, I have put my CO detector on a switch as well - mine was draining the battery pretty significantly when I was away from the boat.
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Old 11-17-2005, 08:49 PM   #12
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Location: Springfield Virginia
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If you haven't shrink wrapped it yet let me know how many fuses you have. The block is up under the snap cover behind the dash. I'm betting you only have 10 and not 14 like the diagram shows.

My switches were all disconnected both from Hot off the fuse box and the yellow wire which completes the circuit for the light at the top of the switch to come on. It took lots of phone calls to get the wiring straightened out.

Now about the tabs. If you have 12x12's that's a pretty good size tab sticking off the back, and you said that they didn't really do much for you. Did they take anything off the top end? My boat will touch 50mph(GPS over ground speed) on a good day with flat water about a quarter tank of gas and just me on board. I don't want to lose that, but when the wind comes up and there's a good bit of chop on the water I have to constantly play with motor trim especially when my wife sits in the back seats. (See Sempreveloce.tripod.com - note no "www") The boat takes a good bit to get up on plane when folks sit back there too, and I was hoping that decent size tabs would alleviate these problems. What do you think?

Where abouts do you boat?

KKKKFL
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