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Old 05-21-2017, 04:20 AM   #1
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Hello Everyone, I just bought into the above boat which is moored in a boat house in Sydney BC. My partners are nearly never around to use it so the maintenance will be up to me. Questions: 1) The 110V power plugs are dead though the shore power is hooked up and the main panel switch is on. Is there a hidden fuse panel somewhere? I found the one under the dashboard but none of the fuses are blown. 2) Since the owner's manual isn't available, does anyone know how many liters/gallons of water and gas it holds? Also, how do you know when the wastewater holding tank is full? 3) The tachometer doesn't work and there's a circular electrical connection suspended in the air above the coil. I'm afraid to reconnect it. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-21-2017, 08:43 AM   #2
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Welcome aboard.

The fuses under the helm are for the 12VDC systems and not the 110VAC power. When plugged in is power showing on the volt meter where the AC breakers are? I suspect the issues is behind this panel so you will have to remove it to inspect the connections. I'm not sure of your power requirements downunder, are they the same 110VAC 60 cycle as US? If not someone may have disconnected it to prevent issues instead of changing the system.

Regarding the tach does it work at all? Try rotating the engine select switch on the back from 4-6-8 a few times to see if the makes a difference. Are the connections good? The gray wire is the signal from the ignition, use a bolted meter to see if it reads anything, its pulsed but the meter will average it so you know the wire is good. The gauge may just be bad.

Post a picture of the circular connector you are seeing. The only one I know of is the ten pin engine connector but is disconnected the engine will not run.
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Old 05-21-2017, 02:54 PM   #3
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Thanks for the suggestions. (The boat is on Vancouver Island, BC, Canada) I will look behind the shore power panel if I can. I'll check the tach as instructed.

After caring for a 1988 motorhome for 15 years (now sold) my favourite motto is "If at first you succeed, try to hide your astonishment."
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Old 05-21-2017, 03:44 PM   #4
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Duh not downunder but norther neighbor, guess that's what happens answering early in the morning when I having a bad night sleeping.
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Old 05-21-2017, 07:11 PM   #5
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Fuel tank is 102 gal, water is 30 gal and waste 16 gal!
There should be a GFI receptacle, check at all 110 volt outlets for a GFI and reset if tripped!
The holding tank you will have look at to tell if it needs to be pumped out!
Hope this helps!
I have the original owners manual for the 2400 and 2700 SCR's if you PM me with your email I will try to send the wiring diagrams!
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Old 05-22-2017, 01:54 PM   #6
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Moved from "Welcome Mat | New Member Introductions" to "Maxum General"
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Old 05-22-2017, 05:52 PM   #7
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Thanks for the feedback. I downloaded the owner's manual from this site. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/86...?page=4#manual
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Old 06-21-2017, 08:50 PM   #8
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Tachometer follow up: Where is the sender located on a 7.4 liter Mercruiser V8 engine? I assume I'll have to hunt down and locate the end of the Tach gray wire but wouldn't mind some guidance from the resident gurus.
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Old 06-21-2017, 09:44 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Tachometer follow up: Where is the sender located on a 7.4 liter Mercruiser V8 engine? I assume I'll have to hunt down and locate the end of the Tach gray wire but wouldn't mind some guidance from the resident gurus.
The 7.4 has a distributor so the tach signal comes from the coil negative terminal. I'll try and post a wiring diagram tomorrow.
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Old 06-22-2017, 10:04 PM   #10
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As far as electric plugs, there are probably more than 1 ground fault circuit interrupters. Check to see if they need reset.
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Old 06-23-2017, 02:32 AM   #11
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mercruiser 7.4 wiring diagram

Having trouble posting link

Google 7.4 wiring diagram
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Old 06-25-2017, 12:18 AM   #12
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I'm trying to figure out the 3 way battery switch. I moored for 24 hours with the switch set to one(1) and killed the battery with the fridge, lights and stereo. With the switch set to ALL (3 batteries) the V8 started like a charm. I then switched back to one(1) with the understanding that that battery would be charged on the return trip. Upon docking in my boat house and plugging into shore power I returned the switch to ALL once more expecting the built in charging system to do its thing. Any guidance/corrections/ or gentle ridicule will be appreciated.

Also, my tach, speedometer and trim gauge are kaput. Could this be related?
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Old 06-25-2017, 03:28 AM   #13
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Not clear what the issues is, are you saying battery one was not charged? How long was the trip back to home port? The engine alternator puts out around 60 amps if the battery is a 700 amp hour battery it will take several hours to charge.

No the gauge issues are not related to the battery nor each other.

Check the tach sense wire (gray) for voltage.

Check the speedo pitito hose to ensure its connected on the drive.

Check the trim sendor wires to see if they are broken, puck on the side of gimbal ring.
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Old 06-27-2017, 12:19 PM   #14
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A 3-way Battery switch (I assume) would be 1 ; 2 ; BOTH ; OFF. This would only allow for 2 positive terminals.

With 3 batteries, I assume that you have a starting battery bank and a house bank. With three batteries, I would guess that two of them are wired in parallel. The two batteries paired in parallel would the house bank and the single battery would be the starting batter.

Frequently the starting battery is wired to switch position 1 and the house is on switch position 2. It would be helpful to verify as this is A LOT of speculation on my part based on my boats have been wired.

You should start and run on the starting battery, then switch to the house bank whenever the boat is stopped. Battery charger should be a three bank charger and wired directly to each battery.

Note that the alternator will only charge whichever battery the battery switch is switched too. It is my understanding you should not run with the switch set to ALL.
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Old 07-05-2017, 09:57 PM   #15
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Fuel tank is 102 gal, water is 30 gal and waste 16 gal!
There should be a GFI receptacle, check at all 110 volt outlets for a GFI and reset if tripped!
The holding tank you will have look at to tell if it needs to be pumped out!
Hope this helps!
I have the original owners manual for the 2400 and 2700 SCR's if you PM me with your email I will try to send the wiring diagrams!
Don

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I reset the one GFI and two of three outlets now have power! Therefore my wife's hairdryer will work when we're docked = thank you!
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Old 07-05-2017, 10:06 PM   #16
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There's a starting battery and two deep cycle batteries. As I understand it the switch should be on ALL when plugged into shore power as this allows ALL to charge. I should set the switch to ONE when starting and leave it there while running as it will recharge. Upon mooring/anchoring without shore power I should set the switch to TWO which draws upon the TWO deep cycle batteries. (and set the 'fridge to one to conserve power) I'll let you(se) know if I screw up though I travel with a charged battery pack so I'm not too worried.
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Old 07-06-2017, 12:21 AM   #17
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Quote:
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T As I understand it the switch should be on ALL when plugged into shore power as this allows ALL to charge.
Battery switch determines which battery is being drawn from. It will also dictate which battery is being charged by the alternator (when the engine is running).

When connected to shore power, the battery charger breaker would need to be turned on. The battery charger should be wired directly to the batteries and not through the battery isolation switch.

If you have 3 batteries, you should have a 3 bank battery charger. It should be a smart charger and have the ability to sense and charge each battery independently.

I try to make it a rule: Start and Run on the starting battery, and Sit on the house battery.

Even if you're on shorepower, you would want to be drawing off the house battery if there is a temporary power outage locally or on the dock.
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