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Old 10-12-2010, 08:34 PM   #1
Lt. JG
 
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Default Norcold 461

Me again.

My Norcold works nicely on AC power but nothing on 12v.

I emailed the company for a solution. They helpfully replied that it must be a 12v issue. Durrr.

Has anyone seen this issue?

My guess is there is some type of automated solenoid switch that is stuck because the PO only used AC (never left the dock).

What do you all know?

Thanks
Wayne
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Old 10-12-2010, 08:36 PM   #2
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unfortunately I don't know alot about them....but there is a relay inside that may have gone bad...or....check your 12vdc connections and look for corrosion at the connectors....maybe that simple..


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Old 10-13-2010, 12:10 AM   #3
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Thanks, there i a process to it.

I had hoped that the company would provide a bit of a shortcut to the process.

I have never heard any love from Norcold owners, I can kinda see why.
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Old 10-13-2010, 03:12 AM   #4
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Maybe this is a stupid answer, but, did you check your panel to make sure that the 12v "refer" switch (this is what mine is called) is on. Also, if you have an
inverter, does it work on the inverter? You can pull out the fridge and check the power plug with a light plugged in, on all the the systems AC, 12v, inverter. It it works, then it is the fridge.
Maybe you already did all of this. Just trying to help.
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Old 10-13-2010, 03:30 AM   #5
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Thanks yes I tried those. Fridge definitely works on AC but not on DC even when the switches on the panel are on. I guess it is just a matter of working through the DC links until I find where the power stops.

these are DC fridges and they transform down to DC from the AC input (pretty sure) so I know the fridge will work.

I will post the result for all to see when I find it. I am sure there is an auto switch that is locked on AC from lack of use.

Regards
Wayne
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Old 10-14-2010, 11:55 PM   #6
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Since I was so helpful before (my husband says I am out of my depth with electrical problems) I looked up my old Norcold DE 561 wiring diagram, you are right, there are two switching contacts, one after the dc input, one after the ac input. This website has some helpful info. on Norcolds. http://bryantrv.com/docs.html (ours now has a Tundra) I promise not to "help" any more on this problem. Best of luck to you. M
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Old 10-18-2010, 04:36 AM   #7
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Thank you so much. This is very helpful indeed
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Old 10-18-2010, 06:39 PM   #8
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I'll chime in with a stupid answer, but I just got through having the opposite problem with mine. The DC would work but not the a/c. What I learned was it's worth disconnecting the DC power from the unit and testing it for power. Might only take you a few minutes but could really tell whats going on. I finally did this for the ac power (plugged in an alarm clock to the socket and nothing) but naturally it was after 3 hours of trying everything else.
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Old 11-15-2010, 01:18 PM   #9
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I surrender, replacing with a Novacool Ru9000 258 liter.

Has anyone owned this unit and fitted one?

Thanks
Wayne
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Old 12-25-2010, 12:58 PM   #10
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Hi Aussie,
I was hoping someone could help you fix your problem because I have the exact same problem with my Norcold. I guess I'd better look in to a Novacool Ru9000,lol.
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Old 12-28-2010, 01:51 PM   #11
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I think a complete replacement might be a bit premature. The breaker (switch) on the panel will be to shut off the 120VAC to the fridge. The battery switch will shut off the 12VDC to the fridge. If 120VAC is present it should take priority over 12VDC. If only 12VDC is present it will run on 12VDC. First check to see if there is a switch inside the fridge. I believe (and I could very well be wrong) that the switch needs to be turned on for either 120VAC or 12VDC.

since it seems to work on 120VAC, then I would be checking the 12VDC ciruit. I'd start with the fuses. Check the 12VDC fuse panel first. Then pull hte fridge and use a Volt meter to check that you're actually getting 12VDC to the fridge. I would expect that the fridge would require a fuse. I wouldn't expect that you'd need to pull the entire fridge to replace a fuse. Ther could be a fuse back there, however I'd expect it to be either inline or in the 12VDC fuse bus.

You could bypass everything and connect an inline fuse to a 12 volt battery and connect it directly to the fridge to narrow down the scope and see wither it is the internal switch or somewhere in the wiring. replacing the entire fridge would be both costly and wouldn't resolve this issue if it were merely a blown fuse.

Just a couple of thoughts.

Obviously if you are getting 12VDC and no 120 VAC, then the aproach is similar. Check that you're getting 120 V to the breaker, then check that you're getting 120 V to the fridge.
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Old 01-04-2011, 03:41 AM   #12
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Turns out that being a 120v unit at the heart of it, when the power unit went in mine, they did some funny fixes and just bypassed the power unit so it only ran on 120v.

I figure parts are going to run $500, Labor $500 and I may not get a result from all of that.

So I cut my losses early and bought a Vitifrigo DP2600 Stainless. In Australia it cost me $2100. Cheaper for you in the US. If you can, go Isotherm, they are the beez Neez but very expensive here for some reason.

I cannot say whether I am happy with it yet, my house battery fried so I need to replace that before I get the full effect.

Regards
Wayne
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