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Old 03-10-2013, 09:07 PM   #1
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Default Maxum 2700 SCR '95

Hi everyone

I've just bought myself a Maxumboat. I've got this one really cheap ($21k) since the engine doesn't start. But the rest is working properly, just needs a good wash and some new carpets inside and some refurbishing which this boats deserves. The original cabin door and latch is missing, so there's homemade instead. With a new 7,4l engine ready in may I think this ship would be worth about $40-50. (In Norway that is. Everything is ridiculous expensive..) If you're curious about our prices, check Maxum boats on our national biggest marketplace on internet: http://www.finn.no/finn/boat/used/re...rows=10&sort=0

I've also got this huge US trailer, which I might get about $3-4K for I think.

The reason for my flipping is that boatfuel is about $3,5 pr litre, and the 7.4l mpi is quite thirsty. If it haven't been for some big taxes I have to pay in august, this is a boat I definitely would have for myself and my family. But with a dieselengine.

Took a photo today after washing my ds3. This "ship" is huge. Can't wait for getting it on the water and try it before the sale
I'll take several photos for documenting the upgrades and share this with you. If you got some neat trixes and fixes you know about I'll be really happy if you shared them in this thread.
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Old 03-11-2013, 02:08 AM   #2
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It amazes me everytime I open this website there someone is writing from far places such as Norway. Welcome Called hope you can turn a good profit on your Maxum or better yet keep it and have lots of fun with it this summer.

Good luck and welcome!


Roger
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:53 AM   #3
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Looks just like mine :-)
I bought mine for about $9,000 USC and put a refurbished engine in for about $3,500 USC. Total $12,500 or so, did the labor with my dad.
Still looking for that cabin hatch too haha. They must have been a bad design or something because I've been seeing a lot of those hatches replaced with homemade ones.

Good luck, I'll keep an eye out for ya,

- Joe
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:20 PM   #4
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Captain's log: 2013-03-12 Tuesday, Sandefjord.

I have started to clean the inside of the cabin. The boat have been standing outside and cold this winter, so there's some mold and dirt stains that are inside the textile fibers.

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I have tried the Vanish wonder stainremover. Which didn't work, neither did steamcleaner with carpetcleaning chemicals. So I went to a local paintstore where they recommended this:

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Ship Shape Jordslagfjerner/Earthstainremover(?)

This is 1-5%chlorine and 1-5% Metasilicates, also called bleaching.
So I've started to dab this into the textile. This is fairly corrosive on skin, so wear gloves and protective glasses. If you try to spray this onto the textile you make a damp which is horrible to breath in. So wear a breathingmask if you do. Though the dabbing method is far mor efficient, you need to get it into the fibers. And it needs about 20-30 degrees celcius to work efficient.
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After 15 minutes I used the steam vacuumcleaner to clean the fibers and get the bleach out of the textile. If it gets too clean, I have to do the rest of the cabin too...
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Don't use steam to early, because watersteam will blend out the strength of the chlorine. Let it set for a while, then use water or steam to wash the textile.
Then the final result on the same spot as above:
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You can see minute by minute that it gets more white as time passes. I used a headlamp, so it looks like the center is more white than the rest, but thats only the light. The stains are gone none the less. So I'll do this to the rest of the cabin the rest of the week. Then I'll start making new carpets for floor and stairs, after chosen color for antifouling. The canopy is delivered to a local man that repairs and mends such. New windows and a upperlip for the zips so the rain don't seeps in. The canopy is of that horrid green color. But a new canopy costs about $4-5k and mine is almost new, so I'll keep them. Otherwise I would have them made in the same deep blue color as I want for antifouling, carpets, curtains etc.

For the engine-part of this project, I might go for a dieselengine with compressor. I'm going to look at the new engine at thursday, so I'll make up my mind then. American boats needs the v8 rumble
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:54 AM   #5
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Nice work Calle,
It looks great. Thanks for the pictures too. I used to have stain spots like that on the curtains but took them to a dry-cleaners and they got them out for me.

A diesel engine would be real nice to have, just make sure the outdrive can handle it (may need a gear ratio change but I'm not sure)
I have the 7.4L in mine with a Bravo 2 and its not too bad on gas when cruising around 3100 RPM, but when i crank her to 4000 RPM it sucks that gas down quick.

- Joe
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:05 AM   #6
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Oh and if you do decide that you want new canopy canvas...
letastopshop.com

she gave me a quote of $1,900.00 USC for the full enclosure (she goes by the Hull ID # for the proper fit)

I just placed an order with her for the bimini top section (not full enclosure) for about $450

- Joe
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Old 03-13-2013, 01:17 PM   #7
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Joe's absolutely right, Calle, installing a diesel will definitely mean, at the very least, a prop change and possibly a drive change. And depending on the torque rating of the diesel you might actually need a stronger drive.

Dan
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Old 03-13-2013, 03:59 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Calle1756 View Post
Captain's log: 2013-03-12 Tuesday, Sandefjord.

I have started to clean the inside of the cabin. .......
So when I asked that the forum post in the Captains Logs be moved to forums, I meant to be moved to its own thread. I didn't forsee that it would be appended to this thread like your hijacking your own post. Welcome to the world of forums.
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Old 03-20-2013, 02:06 AM   #9
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congratulations, Maxum made great boats, I'm on my second one and i'm very happy with it! great job Calle with the cleaning, good luck with your new boat!
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Old 03-23-2013, 08:41 PM   #10
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Default Engine disassembly 23. march 2013

A new update from the icy Norway. Today it is 2C outside and sunny. And the easterholiday have started, so let there be boatfixing. And it was..
With so much space in the engine bay my neighbour and I got snugg into it and started to disassemble the engineparts and maybe get the crankshaft turned. But as nothing would bugde we decided to take all apart. Took a couple of hours and a visit to a toolshop to fetch inch and metric tools. Aquired new tools for about $500 and I was ready. (Ready to screw with my neighbour in the engine room, that's how we say it

All external parts was easy to remove. And Barney appeared as soon as we opened the engine.
None of the valves was stuck. And the raisers was nice as new.
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Lots of grey oil, so there have been water in the oil. Though was it water while it was working? I suspect the water have come in through the carburetor during the autumn.

The great thing with the V8 is that is fairly easy to disassemble. Some metric bolts and some inches. And two persons can work on it on the same time. Though my neighbour was some faster than me.
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The exhaust manifold on the left side had rusted bolts, so we couldn't get that top off. And then we can't get the top off. So I have booked some magic for later after the engine have been lifted out.
But on mine side was easy to unscrew og take it all off. And here's Barney.
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And as you see the enginecylinders have been conserved with water. I have to blame the mechanic that had this boat over the winter. It was freshwater, so the engine have been filled after the boat have been taken up from the seawater. The pistons was completely stuck, so they prolly rusted shut. This smells a complete overhaul.

Lots of rustparticles/dust have accumulated in the water. That have been transported with the water I believe.
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So, a refurbished engine is at least $10000, or I could fix this one for maybe half of that money. I do got an extra 7,4 MPI engine apart from the block. So I really hope the this enginge haven't cracked during the cold weather during the winter. Anyway the mechanic will hear from me that was suppose to take care of the boat during the winter. He haven't done anything, so I guess there are some goodwill from him.

Anyone with any tricks to reveal cracks from freezing in engineblocks?
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:50 PM   #11
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Calle,

The only way to check for cracks in the block is to have the block "magnafluxed". The machine shop will know what it is. Since the engine had water in it you should also have the cylinder heads disassembled and checked for cracks.

You'll have the inspect the cylinders. If they are not too rusted and pited you may be able to lightly "hone" them, which might allow you to re-use the pistons (if they are ok after being cleaned up). If the cylinders need to be bored then not only do you need new pistons but you'll have to have the rotating assembly re-balanced.

Any good machine shop should know what needs to be done.

Dan
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Old 03-25-2013, 02:41 PM   #12
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Thank you Dan. I will tell the local engineworkshop to cook and clean the tops, manifolds and the block. I will also have them to check for cracks, I reckon they can magnaflux the parts. I really HOPE that the block is alright, since in Norway there's a horsepowertaxes on import which are about $30 for each horsepower. And only the block is taxed. So just a new or used imported block would cost me over $10000 in taxes. (Norway is the worlds richest country, by that the goverment is... not the population..)

But are cracks mendable? Or is it trash at once it has cracks?
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Old 03-25-2013, 04:18 PM   #13
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It depends on where the cracks are, Calle.

If there is a crack in the side of the block sometimes a process called stitching can be used but it's a very specialized process. Welding cast iron is very difficult. If the crack is in a cylinder bore many times a "sleave" can be used but that also depends on where the crack is.

30.00 per HP? Wow, that's really expensive. Keep in mind that there were a LOT of different HP ratings for the 7.4 (454) engines. For instance, I think the 1981 - 86 truck version of the 7.4 was rated at only 230 HP, so just tell the government that's the one you're importing.

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Old 03-25-2013, 05:55 PM   #14
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I bought my 94 2400 SCR last Sept, and it had a cracked Block. Mine was easy to see since the Water was seeping into the Cyl. [http://www.maxumownersclub.com/forum...4-2400scr-5-7], I rebuilt this 5.7 for about $2000.00

As far as ways to check for cracks the Machine Shop can do that for you. I used to rebuild detroit diesels and this is What we did, after pulling the Block out of the Hot Tank rinse it off lightly with Hot water, the water evaporates quickly, but the Cleaning solution will remain in the cracks so almost any cracks will show up. After that we would finish Cleaning the Block. Then install Plugs on all but one of the Water ports. Fill the Block with water. Then Install the Last Plug that had a Air Gauge on it, Pressurize the Block with Air and let it sit over night. If the PSI was the same as when we left it, the Block was good....if the Pressure was lower, then we had to find the Leak, weld it machine it and test again.

Todd
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Old 03-30-2013, 04:18 AM   #15
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When I got my 1994 2700 I replaced the engine with a refurbished 7.4L (454ci) merc
Cost me about $3,200. I got mine through AME (Advanced Marine Engine). http://usaboatmotor.com/home/remanufactured-boat-motors

If you go that route, be weary of where you get them from. read reviews and claims made through the better business bureau. The only one I've ever tried was AME and mine works great.

Michiganmotorz.com makes some good rebuilds I've heard. they also sell brand new crate engines which are very nice.

- Joe

P.S. - Dan is right about cracked blocks. you would need to get it magnafluxed. Personally, I don't like messing around with broken stuff, sorta like sweeping the problem under the rug. Pulling an engine out of the boat is no picnic, so when I go through the effort, I'd want to be able to rely on it.
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Old 04-05-2013, 07:50 PM   #16
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So here's today status. Had a mobile crane early this morning to lift the block out. Couldn't get the left top and manifold off the engine because of corrotion on manifold. But it just barely got out of the engine bay. Now I can read the serial number plate which is K282874, and in my customspaper it says F557107. So I'm screwed by the guys who imported it and did the paperwork. So I'm 12 grand short for paying the tax on this engine. And I need another one, and that will cost my at least 10-15 grand. So I am considering visiting these guys, and if I get internet in prison I'll tell you how it went... :P

I know couple of guys working in customs, so I'll try to get their unofficial help before I do anything.

I'm sending the engine for cooking and cleaning, then check it for cracks. The importers will have to pay for the bhp-tax, or wheels will be set in motion. I'm getting pretty cross when they don't reply my attempts on contacting them.
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Old 04-05-2013, 08:34 PM   #17
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You can't find a good engine block in country?
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Old 04-05-2013, 09:11 PM   #18
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In Norway, the horsepower tax is bound to the engineblock. So when a seawater-cooled engine is worn out, you have to pay another HP-tax on the boat...

And if I buy a car-engineblock for the purpose to use it in boats, I have to pay hp-tax (158,50NOK for each HP+25%VAT ontop of that. 300x158,50=47550x1,25=59437,50NOK=10 388,24 USD. And that is just the tax and vat. The engine cost is in addition) If I buy a nonpayed-hptax engine block= I'll have to pay hp-tax. If I buy a HP-taxed engine, then it cost almost like a new engine from US with the vat and tax.

Most of the engine-adds on the internet are people selling engines without papers, but they claim the same prize. 454 engines are rare in Norway as almost everyone have dieselengines. Diesel for use in boats are vat-free, so it is alot cheaper than petrol. But the dieselengines are easy 40-50K USD.

I could just fix the existing engine, just put it inside and sell it like I wouldnt know anything. Next owner would then have the problem, but I don't feel like doing that.
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Old 04-05-2013, 10:04 PM   #19
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Quote:
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I could just fix the existing engine, just put it inside and sell it like I wouldnt know anything. Next owner would then have the problem, but I don't feel like doing that.
Good call.. Bad Boat Karma is not something you want hanging over your head!
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:46 AM   #20
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So now I got an extra engine. A 7,4 MPI engine with cracked block. But the rest seems alright. I have been on the phone with the customs today and got this information: I can import a carengine or carenginge-block without VAT legally. I have to marinitise (correct word?) it myself privately and put it in the boat. Then I'm home free!

So I need a car engine that fits the engine and transom. Does every GM Chevrolet 7,4l / 454 fit? Long block, small block, big block etc?
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