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Old 09-27-2011, 03:31 PM   #1
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Default Winterization Help

Hate to admit it, but I've been paying a marina to winterize Endless Summer the past four off-seasons... something that I'm CERTAIN I can do myself, but just been too timid to try it. Many of my boating friends simply run antifreeze through the engine block instead of pulling all the plugs to drain the water out. I'd prefer to do the same thing, as Endless Summer is stored under-cover during the Winter months, where we occasionally get temps down below zero farenheit for a week or more (Spokane, WA area). I have no problem doing my water system (galley, head, transom shower) it's just the engine that "scares" me due to the consequences of doing it wrong (cracked block, etc...).

If I could do this myself every Fall it would be a HUGE load off my mind every year, not to mention the savings. Overton's has a "Do-It-Yourself Winterizer" for $49.99 that flushes antifreeze through the engine by way of the outdrive pick-up/"ear-muffs" coming from a 5 gallon tank that's gravity-fed (http://www.overtons.com/modperl/prod..._holder)-----I do not have a closed-water system, water is picked-up through the B-III outdrive to cool the single 6.2L engine. Has anyone had any experience doing this? I think I can ALSO pump my own oil out of the engine block with a friend's oil extractor by myself... it's just the draining of the water/flushing anti-freeze that's got me intimidated.

Considering all the projects I do on Endless Summer, I should also be doing this and of course the Summerization in the Spring. If anyone has experience with this, please chime in!
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Old 09-27-2011, 04:27 PM   #2
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jeff
I've used that one before on my 2700 scr....it's really easy...first off...get the engine up to temp on the muffs....you really want the thermostat open before you do this.....then hook up the system with at least 3-4 gals of antifreeze...the pink stuff is fine.....you don't need to run the expensive stuff at the local temps you guys see.....(I"m just over the hills from you in Everett)...

anyway....hook up the system...get water running to the muffs thru that valve on the jug......start the engine up....have someone turn the valve on and watch for the pink stuff to come out of the exhaust....when you think enough has gone thru....your done...shut the engine off and have them close the valve....it does work great......

I've always just blown down the system with pulling the blue plugs.....the one time I used the pink stuff in the jug...we were expecting some seriously freezing weather....I erred on the side of caution that yr........so...either let the system drain by pulling the plugs...or run the pink stuff thru the system....both are effective....no water...can't freeze...the only thing that can and will freeze is the pump on the engine that brings water up from the leg....the impeller will freeze up and you can split a hub on the impeller.....but if you use the pink stuff...you will be fine...

to dewinterize it...just start the engine in the lake and your done..

it's not hard...just prepping is the key.....

SP
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Old 09-27-2011, 04:59 PM   #3
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Here is a conversation on this very same topic.
http://www.maxumownersclub.com/forum...ight=mercstuff

I personally do not like the DIY Kits but I guess if they didn't work, they would stop making them. I follow the directions on the mercstuff link in my post. Works great for me and I think it is pretty easy.
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Old 09-27-2011, 07:33 PM   #4
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yes I am with MC............either make sure you are drained dry and/or leave it that way or put anti-freeze in the block. Most merc manual are very easy to understand with the draining process. Make sure to have a piece of hanger wire to poke the sediment out of the drain cocks and then either leave them open or pour antifreeze in the thermastat openning and watch it come out of the drain cocks, close them up and you are done.

I know alot of friends that use the winterizers with muffs and with good results.....but IMHO a false sense of security.

Roger
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Old 09-28-2011, 11:01 PM   #5
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I have used the ear muffs and pink stuff with the kit and was not at all happy as I had a hard time with the gravity feed. I think it's just another easy way to ruin a perfectly good pump impellor. I prefer the drain method and use compressed air to blow out the water then add the pink stuff thru the thermostat housing until it freely flows through the drain plugs. Then I like to close them off and reinstall the thermostat housing while there is still antifreeze in the block.
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Old 09-29-2011, 04:11 AM   #6
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One issue I have is trying to find the darned PLUGS themselves! Especially the few that are so down in the bilge area, I'm afraid I'd miss one and crack goes the engine block!
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Old 09-29-2011, 06:21 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffmeans View Post
One issue I have is trying to find the darned PLUGS themselves! Especially the few that are so down in the bilge area, I'm afraid I'd miss one and crack goes the engine block!
look into your mercruiser service book the 2 most important are the ones that are totally way moved down on the cooling hoses you have to be david copperfield to feel them and take them out and in again........i had the same problem every year but but with the new 5.0 ltr engine just 2 plugs.....i love it when plans come together

greatz, ed
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Old 09-29-2011, 01:10 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by ed & inge View Post
...look into your mercruiser service book...
I have a copy of the Mercruiser Service Manual Number 24 which says it is for Marine Engines GM V-8 305 CID (5.0L) / 350 CID (5.7L). I have a 2004 year 5.7L carb. 250hp (I think) motor. will that tell me the locations of the drain plugs in the block or is that the wrong manual? The date at the bottom of the first page of the manual says 1999... If that is not the right one anyone have a pdf of the right one they might be willing to share?

Joe
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Old 09-29-2011, 08:16 PM   #9
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i had a 5.7 1998 in my bayliner 2855 and i thougt they used the same motor in 1999.....if you want to be sure contact mercruiser and asked them the service manual book for specificly your motor........

greatz, ed
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Old 09-30-2011, 12:15 AM   #10
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when i dough, youtube.....

all knowing, all seeing.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=_bxpqmT1S3c


http://liboatersclub.com/home?view=article&id=40
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Old 09-30-2011, 04:07 PM   #11
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I found the service manual it is #31 for 2001+
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Old 10-02-2011, 02:40 AM   #12
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Have always winterized my dual 4.3's myself with no problem here in NY. First I flush the system with water using the "ear muffs". After hot I pull and drain the blue engine plugs. Finally I run the pink antifreeze through until it exits the exhaust, fog the carbs and you're set....
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Old 10-02-2011, 06:53 AM   #13
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and maybe change oil and fuel filter after a few years, and check motoroil level and oil reservoires for powersteering and trim tilt system etc....but this al takes 5 minutes, so within half an hour your ready.......o yes dont forget to get the plug at the backside of the boat down under out, if you forget that you will find her back filled with about a few hundred liter of water (if she's standing outside in the rain and snow. and at last i'll dry my motor, tial and al the rubber part and spray them with silocone spray or vasoline spray (acid/sour free) it keeps the rubber muffs and hoses soft and flexible and no rust on your motor. but believe me,......everybody does it on it's own way, learn to listen to all off them because the most are having boats for quiet a long time (myself for almost 33 years) good luck with the winterisation yob

greatz, ed
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