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Old 04-19-2011, 03:01 PM   #1
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Default Maxum Steering

Have '93 Maxum 1900SC w/4/3 and alpha 1 drive. Is there any way to adjust/tighten the steering response. seems to have some play.
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Old 04-19-2011, 04:43 PM   #2
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Is there truly play in the steering? (i.e. you turn the wheel and there is NO movement on the drive until the wheel is rotated past 'x'?) or is it wander at headway speeds?
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Old 04-19-2011, 06:51 PM   #3
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at no wake speed continual back and forth steering to stay straight. Feels like a car w/a bad front end. Do have a "stingray" stabilizer on it.
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Old 04-19-2011, 07:28 PM   #4
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ah...your experiencing the dreaded "BOW WANDER EFFECT"...basically bow wander is where the stern drive is trying to push the bow out of the way...so..it causes the operator to turn the wheel to correct...try this next time out....put the drive all the way down...tabs (if you have them) down...now make smaller corrections as you feel the bow coming port or stbd..turn in the opposite just a little, as the bow starts it's swing...gently and slightly correct the swing...it takes practice but you will get it with time...

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Old 04-19-2011, 09:18 PM   #5
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Izzy60136 and Seapuppy; I (respectfully, SP) disagree... I'd look at the Gimbal Ring/Pin to see if there's "play" in the outdrive, as that's the same exact thing my larger 2900 experiences and I've already determined I'll be spending $2,500+ to get THAT fixed! Mine doesn't wander at high speeds/on plane... just during slow speeds and no-wake speeds. Better be ready to Break Out Another Thousand, Izzy!
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:34 PM   #6
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Jeff
that's certainly a possibility...but...lets try the cheap method first...the only way really to determine the play in the drive is to have it out of the water ...grab the drive and give it a shake...if it moves excessively..then the gimble shaft and ring needs replacing...if it's still tight...then it's probably bow wander....


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Old 04-19-2011, 11:02 PM   #7
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I agree with Shrew and SP, most likely normal low speed wander.

Also, agree 100% with SP's "cure" - do not over correct.

My .02 and can make change! Good luck.
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Old 04-20-2011, 12:14 AM   #8
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agree, low speed wander. This is inherit to v-hulls with single prop I/O's. best thing I found to do is, unless there is a safety concern, is to avoid turning the helm. the majority of he time it will drift back an forth but stay on the base course. if you try to chase the wander you will fight it all day. relax and if needed make very small corrections
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Old 04-20-2011, 04:11 AM   #9
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Good points, all... guess I'm just paranoid with my OWN Gimbal Ring issues...
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Old 04-20-2011, 12:35 PM   #10
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I wasn't sure which it was, which is why I was looking for clarification. It could be a gimbal bearing, in which case the drive itself could be moved back and forth. It could be 'slop' in the steering, (new cables, or a cable adjustment), or it could be bow wander. the reason I asked is because MANY people mistake 'bow wander' for too much play in the steering.

As has been stated, over steering will exacerbate the natural bow wander issue. Unlike a car, which responds immediately, a boat will maintain momentum. I find that if I drift to Stbd, I'll turn the wheel a little bit to port. Notice that there is a little delay in response. This is where people start turning more because they anticipate the same reaction as in a car. Then once the boat is pointing in the direction they want, they straighten the wheel. However, the boat keeps turning to port, so they turn harder to Stbd to bring the boat back around since they have now overshot their target. As Dronthelake stated, frequently, when the bow wanders a little off course, it will correct itself *unless wind and/or current" is affecting you.

Another thing to keep in mind, if wind and current is affecting your heading, sometimes it's easier to head a little into the wind or current. I've heard the term referred to as 'crabbing', though in rafting and canoing, we called it 'ferrying'. You end up travelling a bit diagonally, as you counter the forces of wind and current in order to maintain a heading.

Just a couple of thoughts.

I find the key is, turn slightly and be patient and wait for the bow to start coming around. Then before you've reached your desired heading, straighten back out again. Then wait for the bow to settle in the heading that you wanted.
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Old 04-20-2011, 02:23 PM   #11
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Thank you all for the input. As I have boat on trailer it will be easy to check gimble assemby and cable adjustments. If this checks out then I know I'll have to fix the "captain"!

Thank you again.
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Old 04-21-2011, 12:30 AM   #12
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I find my 1900 sr does this too. I thought it was maybe due to extra weight added by additional batteries in the engine area. I checked my steering and I actually do have some play in the wheel. Under the dash, when I turn the wheel it looks like the linkage that runs to the rear of the boat is a little slow to react. I can move the drive by hand only a fraction when I try and shake it so I think it is alright. Would there be any way to adjust that linkage between the wheelbefore it gets to the drive area?
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Old 04-21-2011, 04:03 AM   #13
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if you have the hydronic steering then you might need to bleed the system...however....having a little play in the steering wheel isn't a big deal...
if you have cable driven steering..then yes there is some adjustment screws on the back...or at the rack and pinion steering....I think you have hydronic steering which will have a certain amount of play in the steering..but not enough to really be noticable..

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