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Old 01-31-2011, 02:05 AM   #1
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Default Jabsco Manual Head - Repair or replace?

Last year my manual head was not performing all that well and even started to leak. This spring I was planning to overhaul it. The service kit is $70 and a new Jabsco is only $150. I have heard that the service kit difficult to use. Installing new is supposed to be much easier. Plus I am worried I will get the wrong parts for my 20 year old head. I presume the new units will fit.

Does anyone have any thoughts?
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Old 01-31-2011, 02:19 AM   #2
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well..there are 2 thoughts to that in my mind.....
1)the kit is definitely cheaper....the unit has been around for a lotta yrs and the kit should work...now..when I had a pump action unit...it was easy to repair...just a pain in the butt....one thing I learned was to get a tub of teflon grease....when you take the pump unit apart....be sure to use rubber gloves and clean all the parts really well....then be liberal with the teflon grease...don't just coat the stuff...blob it on....the pump shaft..the seals....replace the joker valve....and that should be it......of course in the middle of the yr you may need to add some teflon grease...but that's certainly easier than a rebuild..

2)replacement....if I were to have a pump manual head..I'd replace it with an electric or vacuflush head......I've had the pump action unit...it was a pain...cool at nite when it was dark and you flushed with salt water to see the bio-luminescence....glowing toilet bowl is kinda cool.....
but I'd replace it with an electric unit.....they are an easy and straight fwd unit to replace....the hard part is running power too it.....

let us know what happens..

SP
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Old 01-31-2011, 05:13 AM   #3
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20 year old head is a no brainer...........order that new head.

Get the New model called the Twist and Lock from Jabsco. Do shop around! Make sure you get a new jokker valve too. Make sure your vent is working properly also or all is for nothing.

I don't know if you already do this but I have never used the sea water or river water into my head I have a milk jug that I use with good clean dock water to rinse out the bowl.

I would have a small dry-n-vac handy and some old towel when taking off the old head. Double clamp the goose neck fitting and use some bathroom sealer there also when putting it back together.

Have fun

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Old 01-31-2011, 03:47 PM   #4
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Thanks for the advice. I think I am going to go for the new manual Twist and Lock. I really don't use my head enough to go for the electric. Our lake water up here is pretty clean so I think I will just keep using the bottom seacock intake to flush. I will try to remember to take pictures so you guys can experience any nastiness with me.

How do I check the vent? Do you mean the vent on the holding tank?

I bought a simple pump attachment for my drill that connects to a garden hose for pump out. I plan to pump the waste into an old gas can at my dock and dispose of it properly on shore. I will let you know in spring how that works.
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Old 01-31-2011, 04:37 PM   #5
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Glad we all could help! It is a job that requires all the doors and windows to be open.

Checking the vent is easy. A two person job. One person push the toilet handle up and down while the other is out side with their hand over the vent hopefully feeling some kind of air movement.

You shouldn't have to pump out anything other than what is in the bowl of the toilet and that should be full of RV antifreeze right now.

Roger
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Old 01-31-2011, 05:32 PM   #6
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Sorry the pump out comment was not directly related. This is just my solution for emptying my waste tank as the nearest marina is across the lake.
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Old 01-31-2011, 06:36 PM   #7
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yep..keep us informed....but for pumping out...I'd get yourself a dedicated shop vac....only use it to empty the waist ....much faster than that drill thingy...


Sp
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Old 01-31-2011, 07:37 PM   #8
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Last year I used an old pool pump I had and it worked good but required 110v which I generally do not have/want on my dock. I'll let you know how the drill pump works. You may be right that it is too slow.
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Old 02-01-2011, 03:41 PM   #9
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I decided to go with the Twist and Lock Conversion Kit. It is only $70 and I do not need to replace the bowl, hopefully. This way I get the new technology of the Twist and Lock for minimal cost and work.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...m=290454629205
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Old 04-23-2011, 04:50 AM   #10
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I replaced the pump assembly today. It was pretty easy and not too nasty. It definitely solved my leak and it pumps dry much better. It would be about a 10 minute job but I did not have the intructions as they sent me instructions for the complete unit with bowl. Also I stuggled getting the old hoses off (and back on) for several minutes as there is not a lot of room to work.

As you can see below the flapper valve in the base of the old unit was broken. I am really pleased. I have a better, safer, fully working Twist N Lock for cheap and little work.

One caution. The unit is shipped in foam peanuts. I had to disassemble the discharge so I could turn the fitting to line it up with the discharge house. I found 2 of these huge peanuts inside. I am pretty sure that would have been trouble.

peanut


old assembly:


old valve




new installed!

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Old 10-16-2011, 04:31 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seapuppy View Post
yep..keep us informed....but for pumping out...I'd get yourself a dedicated shop vac....only use it to empty the waist ....much faster than that drill thingy...


Sp
You are so right. The drill pump take forever just to prime. I used the shop vac this summer and have put 110V on my dock. It is nice to plug in the maxum when it is calm enough to tie to the dock foe extended periods.
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