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Old 12-23-2013, 01:50 PM   #21
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I did pull both head, I thought that when one side was blown then it's better to take both, it would felt quite bad when I fire her up again and the first trip next side breaks down.

As I mentioned the value them self might not be correct it,s more the difference between the values that's interesting, my compression tester cost mi like 20$ so I don't think it's very accurate.
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Old 12-23-2013, 02:29 PM   #22
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I agree with doing both heads. This allows you to have fresh heads and new gaskets since you are already torn down this far.
When do you plan to reassemble? Post pictures as you do so.
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Old 12-23-2013, 02:38 PM   #23
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I'm going to buy some paint for the heads and intake as soon as the stores open after x-mas,
When I have re-painted the parts again I will reassemble the engine,
Probably in January.
I will post updates and pic along the reassemble.
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Old 12-29-2013, 05:25 PM   #24
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Click image for larger version

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ID:	3114Intakt before repainting, some rust that didn't look so good,
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Old 12-29-2013, 05:45 PM   #25
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intake after sandblasting and repainting with Quicksilver enamel spray paint.Click image for larger version

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i also repainted the heatexchanger.
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Old 12-29-2013, 07:14 PM   #26
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Fippe looks nice painted however you got paint on the bolt threads and it looks in the threads of th intake for the distributor hold down.
I recommend cleaning these up with a tap (intake threads) and die (bolt threads).
When do you get the heads back?
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Old 12-29-2013, 07:46 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr View Post
Fippe looks nice painted however you got paint on the bolt threads and it looks in the threads of th intake for the distributor hold down.
I recommend cleaning these up with a tap (intake threads) and die (bolt threads).
When do you get the heads back?
It's correct that I got some paint in the threads, I'm going clean them up,
I've got the head back and now when the intake is painted and that went well I try too touch up the heads a bit.
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Old 04-01-2014, 07:27 AM   #28
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Some update, I was supposed too put the engine together in January but it got a bit cold outside so I started last Sunday instead,
I bought new bolts too make the reassembling easier,
Started too clean the surface, so far everything vent well.
Soon the first head was on place, started whit the next and everything felt really good until it was time too put the pushrods and rocker arms on place when I first notice that the moron who renovated the heads had put back a exhaust valve that is to short, they had cut of to much of the valve shaft.
Now I have to lift the head again go back too the workshop and the change the valve.
I got a bit mad at my self for not notice that before I put the head back.
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:01 PM   #29
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I hear you. Only 1 valve wrong should have stood out but this long winter has gotten to us all.

BTY if you had already torqued the head bolts the gasket needs to be replaced.
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Old 04-01-2014, 07:36 PM   #30
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Indeed it has, winter is not my favorite time of the year. :-)

I have torques the head :-( I talked too the workshop and they will give me a new head gasket,
And I hope they will not charge me for a new valve and the work to change it when they have messed it up.
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Old 04-01-2014, 09:41 PM   #31
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They should not charge you for their error. Make sure you are using marine head gaskets and not automotive as they have copper in them.
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Old 04-02-2014, 04:13 PM   #32
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They gave me a head gasket for automotive and told me that if I want another one I have to pay for it my self.
I don't want to argue before they have fixed the valve, if I do the probably will do a bad job replacing it.
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Old 04-13-2014, 06:59 AM   #33
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I Was reading the service manual for my engine and came across the part where they show a flow trough diagram for closed cooling system, according to mercruiser manual it should be a flow trough opening in the thermostat housing that let's the coolant flow even when the thermostat is closed.
My thermostat housing do not have that flow through passage, is that a problem?
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Old 04-13-2014, 11:08 AM   #34
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Is the thermostat housing the Merc OEM (open system) or is it one supplied by ORCA for the closed cooling? Some system use a bypass hose that comes off the top of the intake manifold and connects to the engine water pump.
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:19 AM   #35
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I think It is a housing from Orca, and I have no hose from the intake manifold.
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Old 04-14-2014, 11:39 AM   #36
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Well if the t-stat housing is from Orca It is probably ok and may have a passage that you just don't see or some t-stats have a pin hole or 2 that allow some water to pass.
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