Go Back   Maxum Boat Owners Club - Forum > Maxum General > Engines
Click Here to Login
Register FAQ Community Calendar Today's Posts Log in

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-12-2016, 12:10 AM   #1
Commander
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 345
Default Merc 5.7 loses oil pressure, one manifold hot, white stuff on remote oil filter.

Have a twin engine 5.7 L Merc.
Both engines start out fine with oil pressure, cold, and idle, 40-65 psi
After driving 20 or 30 minutes, port engine gauge starts to drop, alarm goes off. Starboard engine shows fine, still 40-60 psi.
Temperature on both engines is fine.

Of the two exhaust manifolds on the port engine, one is around 115-120 degrees, the other (port side) is around 155-160 degrees.
Starboard engine manifolds are around 115-120 as well.
Okay, so may be time to do manifolds again, its been 5 years.

The problem/question I have is regarding the remote oil filter. Same laser temperature reader shows the oil filter around 155-160 degrees on the port motor. And it has this white stuff all over it.

The oil is clean, even changed about a month ago. Dipstick level looks fine. No idea why the remote oil filter looks this way. Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks.
__________________

jamanati is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2016, 12:12 AM   #2
Commander
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 345
Default

Click image for larger version

Name:	20160911_174516.jpg
Views:	17
Size:	191.8 KB
ID:	4808

Click image for larger version

Name:	20160911_174527.jpg
Views:	12
Size:	148.2 KB
ID:	4809

One remote oil filter looks fine, clean, that's on the starboard motor, which is running fine.

The other remote oil filter is white, looks salty or crusty, engine loses oil pressure on this engine, plus port manifold runs hotter than the starboard manifold. Oil filter is also very hot to the touch.
__________________

jamanati is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2016, 12:13 AM   #3
Captain
 
Kevlar7r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 746
Default

Pictures would help.

First thing I would do is change the oil, and see if symptoms persist.
Kevlar7r is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2016, 12:18 AM   #4
Commander
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 345
Default

I had the issue about a month ago, low oil pressure.
Swapped out oil pressure sender switch, gauge, etc. Those were fine.
So I did replace the oil and filter, pressure came back. That was a month ago.
What's odd is that at idle and then even for 10-15 minutes, oil pressure is fine.
Then is starts to lose pressure, goes to zero, and alarm goes off.
jamanati is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2016, 02:09 AM   #5
Admiral
 
mmwjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,222
Default

What does the oil pressure drop to?

Any knocking noise?

Could be the oil pump pressure regulator getting stuck open.

My 5.7 lost oil pressure when hot this year along with a knock, it was the main bearing and crank worn out. I replace the engine. The cheap fix would have been to install a crank kit but for the same work but more $'s I got a now long block.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2

Mike
mmwjr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2016, 05:25 PM   #6
Commander
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 345
Default

Oil pressure on the gauge drops to 0, alarm goes off right before it does.
I didn't hear any knocking noise when the alarm went off, I did shut the motor off.
When I started it again about 45 minutes later, pressure was around 20 psi.

Any idea what the white stuff may be on the remote oil filter?
It wasn't white at the beginning of the season back in May. It looked the other picture I posted.
jamanati is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2016, 08:29 PM   #7
Captain
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 526
Default

Can you pull a valve cover to just get an idea of the internal condition of the engine? Maybe you've got a severe sludge problem and as it breaks up, it's clogging passages until the pressure behind it drops and it falls out of the passage.
speedysprocket is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2016, 08:32 PM   #8
Admiral
 
mmwjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,222
Default

Really not sure what it is.

Try unbolting the oil filter bracket from the exhaust to see if the hot manifold/riser are heating the oil up and thinning it out. Use some cord to tie it off so it's not laying on the engine.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2

Mike
mmwjr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2016, 10:29 PM   #9
Captain
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 526
Default

Oil should be good till well over 200.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
speedysprocket is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2016, 11:11 PM   #10
Admiral
 
mmwjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,222
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by speedysprocket View Post
Oil should be good till well over 200.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes but it does get thinner and if the engine has loosened up in the main bearing it may loose pressure, yes a long shot.

However since it goes to zero but then recovers has me thinking it's the oil pump bypass that regulates the pressure.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2

Mike
mmwjr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2016, 11:25 PM   #11
Captain
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 526
Default

20 minutes is not long enough for oil to cool down that much.
I'd say put a bottle of seafoam in to see if loosens anything up before you resort to pulling it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
speedysprocket is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2016, 12:46 AM   #12
Commander
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 345
Default

Will look to pull a valve cover off this weekend. I peek into the oil filler hole doesn't show any building.

The left manifold where the oil filter bracket is bolted was definitely hotter than the right side manifold, 160 compared to 150. The bracket was hot, so was the oil filter. Even with that, still not sure what the white stuff is on the outside.

Will probably pull manifolds and riser as well, but the white stuff has me perplexed, never seen anything like this.
jamanati is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2016, 12:47 AM   #13
Commander
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 345
Default

A peek into the oil filler hole doesn't show any build-up on either side.
jamanati is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2016, 12:03 PM   #14
Captain
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 526
Default

Does the pressure gradually decrease or drop suddenly?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
speedysprocket is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2016, 12:28 AM   #15
Commander
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 345
Default

Pressure starts out good when cold, around 50 or 60 psi. Driving after a while it still stays high 50 psi and up, then around 20-30 minutes, it starts to slowly lose pressure. From the time it starts losing pressure it will take about 5-10 minutes (at 3200 rpm) to come down to 5 psi or less, then the alarm goes off, at which I turn off the engine.
jamanati is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2016, 01:17 AM   #16
Admiral
 
mmwjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,222
Default

How many hours are on the engine? What you just described sounds a lot like how my old engine was at the beginning of this season but a 5 psi it was knocking up a storm. IMO a rebuild or new engine is in the near future.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2

Mike
mmwjr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2016, 01:07 AM   #17
Captain
 
Kevlar7r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 746
Default

Agree with mike. I just replaced an engine with same symptoms. It was a damaged rod bearing.

What is above that oil filter? Could rain water be dripping on it and drying/leaving a crust?

Could you have a pinhole leak in a cooling water line spraying seawater up there?
Kevlar7r is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2016, 11:45 PM   #18
Commander
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 345
Default

Spent some time, figured some things out.
The white crust is salt. I had a circulation pump failing that was spraying water all over the place. Okay, that's fixed.
Drained oil and filter. Put in new oil and filter and 1 qt motor flush. Ran engine as per directions. Drained oil and filter again. Added new oil filter.

It's been 5 years since I did manifolds and risers, so did that. Add to that plugs, cap, rotors. Degreased and painted engine in rusty areas, plus the remote oil filter holder. Removed hoses and carb to make it a bit easier to paint.

Installed new oil pressure sender.

Pullet valve covers off, all is clean, no issues there.

Started engine, oil pressure reads 55-60 psi. Okay, been here before.

Idled for a while, pressure remained at 55-60. If I rev it to 2k or 3k rpm, pressure increases to 65-70. Been here before as well.

Took it out of for a ride, not even at 3k rpm for 5 minutes I decided to take a peak into the bilge. I dropped down to idle. Not even 10 seconds, pressure gauge went to 0. The low oil pressure switch went off sounding the alarm. Turned the engine off and checked the bilge.

No leaks, inside valve covers check out fine. But argh, seems that my carb float is now stuck open, carb was flooded and had to go back on one engine.

Okay, time to hook up a mechanical gauge and tee it inline. Now I have to solve the stuck carb float problem as well.

I managed to find this kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 seems fine and priced okay. Added a few 1/8 NPT fittings to have both the mechanical and electrical gauge connected.

I guess I'm headed back to the marina again. But football and beer for today is what's on the menu.
jamanati is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2016, 12:54 AM   #19
Admiral
 
mmwjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,222
Default

Since gauge and alarm are going off not sure what a mechanical gauge will provide that you do not already know.

Too much fuel can get past the rings and thin out the oil but not to the point of zero pressure.

I still think that once the engine warms up the clearances increase enough that she cannot hold pressure. See if you can move the balancer around next time she looses pressure, this will be due to play in the bearings.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2

Mike
mmwjr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2016, 01:03 AM   #20
Commander
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 345
Default

I'm grasping at straws with the mechanical gauge maybe a wiring short in the harness at best. If the mechanical gauge also drops then it's engine pull out time.

One thing, when pressure is 0 there is no knocking or noise or any kind, runs quiet as normal.

I will see if I can move the balance next time as well.
__________________

jamanati is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT. The time now is 06:57 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.