First, the process will differ depending on whether you have raw water cooling or closed cooling.
Then I suppose you decide whether you want to drain the water, or flush the water with propylene glycol (AF). If you flush with AF you could manually drain the AFl if you want, but I'm not sure there's much benefit. In fact, I feel like leaving the cooling passages filled with AF prevents air and that reduces the chances or surface rust forming.
If its a raw water system, then certainly you will need to wait until the thermostat opens.
In a closed cooling system with a heat exchanger, antifreeze is already running through the block. You're winterizing the heat exchanger and exhaust system.
With an inboard, I close the raw water intake, open the sea strainer and starting pouring AF into the top of the sea strainer with the engine running. Once the exhaust starts discharging AF, I stop, close up the sea-strainer and open the seacock
With an IO I use a different method. I take a garden hose splitter (1-2) with shut offs.
I run the single leg to a garden hose to muffs on the outdrive.
The two leg splitter portion becomes the intake manifold.
One leg to a garden hose going to a hose bib.
The other leg to a short section of hose into a gallon bucket filled with antifreeze.
Both intake valves are shut and the outbound valve to the muffs is open.
Turn on the water at the hose bib. Then turn on the valve to that hose at the splitter and start the engine. I wait until water is flowing from the exhaust freely. (On a Raw Water Cooled boat, here is where you would wait until the thermostat opens. That is not necessary on a closed cooled boat).
Now open the valve for the antifreeze bucket and close the valve to the hose bib. This process effectively primes the system. Now continue pouring gallons of antifreeze into the bucket (have a bunch opened and ready with the cap off and foil peeled). Once antifreeze if flowing freely from the exhaust, close the valve to the muffs and kill the engine.
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