Change out the plug wires just because you've done the rest of the tune up stuff. Also the fuel filter.
The electric choke should engage when the engine is cold, but not when the engine is warm. You might want to look at how the choke behaves on your very first start. Then see how it behaves after a quick restart on a hot engine.
How does it run otherwise? Smooth? Stumbling at certain engine speeds? Generally, if a carb has been sitting up and was not drained or run to stalling, it may get a little gummed up as the residual gas evaporates and leaves behind some gunk. Sometimes it will only run on choke because the idle jets and passages are clogged up. If you don't have compressed air (and even if you do) a $5 set of torch tip cleaning rods will clear the tiniest holes. They are basically just a set of tiny spring steel wires in precise thicknesses, you pass the largest one you can through each opening.
Here is a very weird idea. IF you have a timing light with an inductive clip that goes around the plug wire, see if it strobes when you attempt a restart. If the strobe still triggers when you attempt to restart, but the engine doesn't start, then you have a pretty good idea that an intermittent coil or ignition controller is not the problem. If it doesn't strobe during a no start condition, then the ignition system is your problem.
Hey, when you sprayed in some starting fluid, did it at least give you some little kick, and then nothing? It absolutely should. If it didn't even give a little kick and then nothing, that would also point toward an ignition problem. Electronics like it cold cold. If they are going to fail intermittently, they will do so when hot.
I keep a spare spark plug in the glove box, so I can check for spark without pulling the plugs. But the timing gun trick will tell you the same thing without the risk of a little 30,000 volt shock. Not a big deal, like the man in the Taking of Pelham 1,2,3 said, it ain't the volts, it's the amps that kills you.