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07-02-2026, 02:47 PM
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#1
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Ensign
Join Date: Mar 2024
Posts: 8
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5.7 with Bravo11 running hot???
looking for some advice, I have a 2001 3300 SCR with 5.7's / Bravo11 - Temp typically runs ~175, last 2 times after about 20 minutes it bumpped up. I did take a scrub brush to intakes and cleared some growth (brakish water), temp stayed up again after ~20 minutes at 3200 RMP's. Coolient level is good. I have been shutting it down to no wake each time out of caution. Should I be concerned? any truth to the "bravo-itis" I have been hearing about. TIA
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07-02-2026, 04:53 PM
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#2
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 11,066
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Yes Bravo-itis is a very real problem. When was the transom mount last serviced? Some times only the bellows get replaced but the water hose and fasteners need to be done as well to get rid of any marine growth in the hose.
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__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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07-02-2026, 06:08 PM
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#3
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Ensign
Join Date: Mar 2024
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
Yes Bravo-itis is a very real problem. When was the transom mount last serviced? Some times only the bellows get replaced but the water hose and fasteners need to be done as well to get rid of any marine growth in the hose.
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Thank you for quick reply - this is my 3rd. summer, I have had the boat and not serviced the bellows or water house, was planning on doing this off season. Will focus on water house. for general knowledge at what water temp.should I be concerned or when do alarms go off? thank you again, very helpful
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07-03-2026, 12:00 AM
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#4
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 11,066
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You stated coolant level so I’m assuming closed cooling with a heat exchanger; correct? If yes the closed side can reach around 200*F but the open portion of the system should not exceed 180*F. I would use an IR temp sensor to check the HE and exhaust components.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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07-03-2026, 10:58 AM
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#5
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Ensign
Join Date: Mar 2024
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
You stated coolant level so I’m assuming closed cooling with a heat exchanger; correct? If yes the closed side can reach around 200*F but the open portion of the system should not exceed 180*F. I would use an IR temp sensor to check the HE and exhaust components.
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Yes closed cooling. Again appriciate the info, will look into both with IR Temp gun and go from there - happy 4th. be safe
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07-06-2026, 02:47 PM
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#6
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Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,967
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When was the last time the exhaust manifolds and risers were replaced. It should be every 5 years.
"Bravo-itis" is absolutely a thing. I had to replace my transom assembly at about 17 years of service. I'd be VERY suspect of a 25 yr old transom assembly.
The shortcut is to install a through hull pick with a seacock and a sea strainer, then install a drive showers on the outside of the outdrives.
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07-10-2026, 03:09 PM
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#7
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Ensign
Join Date: Mar 2024
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shrew
When was the last time the exhaust manifolds and risers were replaced. It should be every 5 years.
"Bravo-itis" is absolutely a thing. I had to replace my transom assembly at about 17 years of service. I'd be VERY suspect of a 25 yr old transom assembly.
The shortcut is to install a through hull pick with a seacock and a sea strainer, then install a drive showers on the outside of the outdrives.
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Thank you all for the advice, decided to install 2 thru hulls directly to the water pump to hopefully resolve any future concerns
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07-10-2026, 06:17 PM
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#8
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 11,066
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Denasheetz
Thank you all for the advice, decided to install 2 thru hulls directly to the water pump to hopefully resolve any future concerns
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2 thru hulls or a 2 inch thru hull? A single thru hull is what you want. Be sure to include a seacock which allows you to shut it off in case a leaks were to happen.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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07-10-2026, 08:06 PM
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#9
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Ensign
Join Date: Mar 2024
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
2 thru hulls or a 2 inch thru hull? A single thru hull is what you want. Be sure to include a seacock which allows you to shut it off in case a leaks were to happen.
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yes Single thru hull with seacock
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07-13-2026, 02:23 PM
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#10
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Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,967
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Don't forget to install external drive showers. The internal water jackets in the outdrive cool the drive. If you bypass the water intake you need to install external passive drive showers.
https://www.driveshowers.com/simrek-...Max-p117459061
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07-13-2026, 11:51 PM
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#11
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 11,066
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shrew
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Shrew is correct the upper gears need to be cooled. Several styles out there.
__________________
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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