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Old 06-06-2018, 02:18 PM   #1
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Default 2002 2900 scr bilge float switch

Looking to make my bilge pump to work with float switch and console switch. Have check wiring I tried new pump and float switch can't get right combo. Must not have wiring correct ??
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Old 06-06-2018, 02:55 PM   #2
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Your bilge pump is one unit or two different one?
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Old 06-06-2018, 04:30 PM   #3
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Pump is one unit and the float switch is another unit. Float should kick in automatic when water is in the bilge. Pump works from the switch on dash but it should also work by the float switch on auto if there is water. Power to the 2 brown wires when switch is on at dash. All units are new
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Old 06-06-2018, 04:58 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by rickm View Post
Pump is one unit and the float switch is another unit. Float should kick in automatic when water is in the bilge. Pump works from the switch on dash but it should also work by the float switch on auto if there is water. Power to the 2 brown wires when switch is on at dash. All units are new
Ok I got it
Here is the diagram how its should be.
And another one with light in the line.
And one for the wire colors....just in case.
Just click on any of the diagram to large view.
Good luck.
Attached Thumbnails
14_A.gif   attachment-php-attachmentid-422653-stc-1-d-1400157690-in-rule-bilge-pump-wiring-diagram.jpg   Rule-Auto-Bilge-Pump-Wiring.gif  
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Old 06-06-2018, 06:25 PM   #5
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Ok I got it
Here is the diagram how its should be.
And another one with light in the line.
And one for the wire colors....just in case.
Just click on any of the diagram to large view.
Good luck.
Good diagrams however all three have the float power going through a switch which not recommended. The float should get its power directly from the battery and have a separate in line fuse. This way the float cannot be accidently unpowered.
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Old 06-06-2018, 08:06 PM   #6
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Mike your right and the power wires our the 2 brown wires which is 1 to pump and 1 to float switch but no power until I hit the switch on dash. 1 of the brown wire should be power all the time.
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Old 06-06-2018, 09:01 PM   #7
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Good diagrams however all three have the float power going through a switch which not recommended. The float should get its power directly from the battery and have a separate in line fuse. This way the float cannot be accidently unpowered.
The switch is NO or NC when water close the circuit turn the pump ON an yes go to the switch to turn it ON manually....
But guys do it in your way. I just try to help here.....
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Old 06-06-2018, 09:29 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by rickm View Post
Mike your right and the power wires our the 2 brown wires which is 1 to pump and 1 to float switch but no power until I hit the switch on dash. 1 of the brown wire should be power all the time.
Then would run non stop....
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Old 06-06-2018, 09:33 PM   #9
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The float can’t be powerd is only a switch
The wire from the switch auto side can go straight to the battery or power side of the switch
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Old 06-07-2018, 12:09 AM   #10
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The switch is NO or NC when water close the circuit turn the pump ON an yes go to the switch to turn it ON manually....
But guys do it in your way. I just try to help here.....
I see what you are saying but that info is not clear on the diagram.

When the switch is in the manual position power is removed from the float and applied directly to the pumps motor. In the auto position it is applied to the float that must close due to high water to power the pump.

What I donít care for is there is a switch that can fail in line with the float this is why boat manufacturers power the float directly from the battery.

BTY no one is trying to offend anyone here and all inputs are welcome.
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Old 06-07-2018, 03:05 AM   #11
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The power go true the float in the manual position.
What you say, should not have the triple switch just a on of, for manual mode . Right?
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Old 06-07-2018, 04:57 AM   #12
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The power go true the float in the manual position.
What you say, should not have the triple switch just a on of, for manual mode . Right?
I correct myself. Should go directly to the pump in the manual mode.
Here is another diagram:
Attached Thumbnails
image_191477.jpg  
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Old 06-07-2018, 11:21 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Gugi47 View Post
I correct myself. Should go directly to the pump in the manual mode.
Here is another diagram:
You do very nice graphics.

Only comment on this diagram is the high water alarm is only activated when the manual pump switch is on and IMO it should be wired to always be powered. The alarm uses a float similar to the bilge pump float switch to sound an alarm it the water level gets to high.
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Old 06-07-2018, 01:10 PM   #14
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If I remember it did work with the float switch automatic when I first got the boat. So I've replaced the pump before and thinking I plugged the wires in wrong. I tried all different combinations and can't get it. BUT I'M NOT GIVEN UP YET !!!!
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Old 06-07-2018, 01:22 PM   #15
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This is not this complex.

1 common ground (Black)
1 positive from the battery (technically from the fuse panel)
1 positive from the dash switch.

All grounds get crimped together.

Dedicated positive got to the float switch, then to the pump.
Positive from the dash switch goes straight to the pump.

Technically BOTH positives are switched. One is a manual switch at the dash, and one is a mechanical float switch in the bilge. Everything shares the common ground.

1) Disconnect both positives and the ground.
2) turn the dash switch ON
3) connect the ground (black) of a multi-meter (set to 12vdc) to the ground wire.
4) Connect the positive on the multi-meter to the first positive lead(Does it read 12v?)
5) Connect the positive on the multi-meter to the second positive lead (Does it read 12v?)

If there is a problem, trace the circuits back to the fuses and proceed with troubleshooting. Take the pumps and float switch out of the troubleshooting and approach it methodically.
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Old 06-07-2018, 02:38 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by mmwjr View Post
You do very nice graphics.

Only comment on this diagram is the high water alarm is only activated when the manual pump switch is on and IMO it should be wired to always be powered. The alarm uses a float similar to the bilge pump float switch to sound an alarm it the water level gets to high.
Every time the pump is On the alarm will be ON, that's how is wired.
I can't take the credit for the graphics. I just C/P them from where I find them.
Thanks Mike you are a great guy and a big help for this site.
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Old 06-07-2018, 02:40 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by shrew View Post
This is not this complex.

1 common ground (Black)
1 positive from the battery (technically from the fuse panel)
1 positive from the dash switch.

All grounds get crimped together.

Dedicated positive got to the float switch, then to the pump.
Positive from the dash switch goes straight to the pump.

Technically BOTH positives are switched. One is a manual switch at the dash, and one is a mechanical float switch in the bilge. Everything shares the common ground.

1) Disconnect both positives and the ground.
2) turn the dash switch ON
3) connect the ground (black) of a multi-meter (set to 12vdc) to the ground wire.
4) Connect the positive on the multi-meter to the first positive lead(Does it read 12v?)
5) Connect the positive on the multi-meter to the second positive lead (Does it read 12v?)

If there is a problem, trace the circuits back to the fuses and proceed with troubleshooting. Take the pumps and float switch out of the troubleshooting and approach it methodically.
I have only one thing to say: PERFECT.
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Old 06-07-2018, 05:42 PM   #18
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Every time the pump is On the alarm will be ON, that's how is wired.
I can't take the credit for the graphics. I just C/P them from where I find them.
Thanks Mike you are a great guy and a big help for this site.
But that is not what one wants. The alarm should be independent of the pump so it will alarm if the pump does not activate. Float switches fail and if this happens no alarm the way its wired.
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Old 06-07-2018, 10:32 PM   #19
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But that is not what one wants. The alarm should be independent of the pump so it will alarm if the pump does not activate. Float switches fail and if this happens no alarm the way its wired.
To do that you need a PLC unit. No boat have that. Maybe the big ones...
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Old 06-07-2018, 11:05 PM   #20
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To do that you need a PLC unit. No boat have that. Maybe the big ones...
Itís not standard equipment but all that is required is a float switch and an audio buzzer wired in series across 12VDC. The float should be positioned to where it would activate with higher bilge water than the pump float but not to high up that there would be too much water in the bilge. This is a very common home set up.
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