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-   -   NEED HELP STAT! Hoping to get out tomorrow... (http://www.maxumownersclub.com/forums/f11/need-help-stat-hoping-to-get-out-tomorrow-5478.html)

SoCalMX 11-08-2014 01:12 AM

NEED HELP STAT! Hoping to get out tomorrow...
 
2000 2100...I went to do a test of the boat today for tomorrows trip. All accessories work including the radio. The key switch is just dead, not even the warning solid beep goes on (I would think a low batt that allows the radio & lights on would at least sound the beep) and there is absolutely no power from the switch to try and turn the engine. The battery is new and it had only been sitting for 2 weeks with all switches off. I even hooked up my jump box and nothing. I am stumped and we have 5 other people excited for tomorrows trip! HELP!!!:confused:

Kevlar7r 11-08-2014 01:56 AM

Is the gear shift in neutral?
Is the lanyard attached?
Both battery switches on?

Kevlar7r 11-08-2014 01:58 AM

When you turn the key on, do the gauges activate? If so, what is the voltage showing?

mmwjr 11-08-2014 02:08 AM

Check engine breaker, red button on engine cable harness.

As pointed out verify shifter is in neutral. Measure for 12 V on the B terminal on the ignition switch

Kevlar7r 11-08-2014 02:21 AM

That gear shift in neutral one is a lesson I learned several times over. My favorite was when I worked a summer towing boats and doing rescues on Lake Pleasant.



We got called out to a broken down boat. Before hooking up, we decided to see if we could solve the issue. My partner grabs a screw driver, and climbs down the engine compartment to short the terminals. We hadn't tied off, and I was on our boat, just holding the gunwhales together. He shorts the terminals, if fires right up, and pulls the boat out of my grip. We all (me, him, the owner) kinda all looked at each other, and then at the shifter, and there was a mad dash to pull it back to neutral.



We didn't charge him for the service call, but he gave us a nice tip.

If it were that issue, though, I think the alarm would sound (ignition on, no oil pressure). Does your boat have a dc breaker panel? Mine has a dc breaker for each ignition.
If so, you might need the tip of the key or a pen to push the breaker in far enough to reset.

SoCalMX 11-08-2014 04:19 AM

Awesome. Thanks for the responses. Yes, I made sure it was in neutral and no the gauges were not activated. Not sure if my boat has a lanyard and I will check the engine breaker!

SoCalMX 11-08-2014 04:31 AM

The harness breaker seemed ok, would not reset. Where are the battery switches? Is too strange all electrical works fine and nothing from the switch including the pesky alarm sound!? Do these switches go bad?

jamanati 11-08-2014 12:24 PM

Follow the wire. Check for voltage on the key switch when its off. When its turned to on, does voltage go down the wire? Key switches seldom go bad but should be an easy check.

Kevlar7r 11-08-2014 12:36 PM

A 2000 model, yes you have a lanyard. Should be right next to the key. It is usually attached to the key chain.

mmwjr 11-08-2014 02:07 PM

The lanyard is for th run saftey switch, tis switch removed power from the ignition and not the cranking circuit so I doubt this is the issue.

Measure for 12V at the ignition switch B terminal. Could try jumping Slave soleniod to see it she cranks.

mmwjr 11-08-2014 02:53 PM

SoCal I sent you a PM,look under your Notifications

Kevlar7r 11-09-2014 02:34 PM

Did you get it going? I'm curious.

jrsick 11-09-2014 03:50 PM

If not engine breaker or lanyard, problem might be the starter fuse. Connects the red wire from the battery to the starter. You can' t look at it and tell if it is broken.

mmwjr 11-09-2014 04:59 PM

I spoke with him yesterday. Last was low battery that after charging some would crank by jumping across slave soleniod.

I think the battery is just low and needs to be fully charged

Kevlar7r 11-09-2014 07:05 PM

2 weeks to stone cold dead battery? Hmm. Defective battery or unknown parasitic draw?

mmwjr 11-09-2014 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevlar7r (Post 35260)
2 weeks to stone cold dead battery? Hmm. Defective battery or unknown parasitic draw?

I think the latter

SoCalMX 11-10-2014 12:28 AM

Nothing yet guys thanks! I did not have time to do much today. I am thinking something might be drawing from the battery, if so for future reference should I simply disconnect the battery when not in use?

jrsick mentioned a starter fuse, where would that be located?

Thanks for speaking with me Mike, I am sure it can be quite frustrating dealing with someone not too electrically inclined! :ohwell:

jrsick 11-10-2014 01:48 AM

The starter fuse protects the starter and wiring from reverse polarity. It is located between the positive lead from the battery and the starter. It's about 1.5 inch square and usually has white plastic around the edge. To check for faulty starter fuse you can remove the fuse and connect the positive lead directly to the starter. If everything works normal after that then the problem was the starter fuse. Is it possible that the battery was connected improperly at some point? You wouldn't need to have turned anything on to blow the starter fuse with a reverse polarity situation.

mmwjr 11-10-2014 02:27 AM

Since he could get the engine to crank by jumping the slave soleniod after charginging the battery some the starter fuse would have to be good.

SoCal no problem helping someone without electrical knowledge, only frustration is that I was not able to help talk you through the issue.

SoCalMX 11-10-2014 05:09 AM

It is a learning curve for sure, but a welcome one!

So, should I disconnect the battery when not in use? I don't care about radio memory etc...Also, nothing is making any sense, if I find there IS power getting to the ignition key switch, is there a way to test the switch itself?

Kevlar7r 11-10-2014 12:32 PM

Yes, you would have to take it out, or get to the back of it somehow, then just test for continuity between the terminals in the various positions.

Yes, you will want to disconnect the battery when not in use and/or keep the battery on a charger/battery maintainer. I would think your boat has a battery switch, doesn't it?

mmwjr 11-10-2014 05:09 PM

To test the ignition switch there should be no continuity between B and any other terminal when the key is in the off position. When the key is in the run position there should be continuity between B and I terminals and final when the key is in the start position there should be continuity between all terminals; B, I, and C.

Once you have charged the battery and try to start the boat do you hear a click, does it crank, anything?

While it is preferred to disconnect the battery when not in use to me there is an issue that something is drawing a fair amount of power that is not being switched off when the engine is off. Is there electronics directly wired to the battery?

Kevlar7r 11-10-2014 08:02 PM

^^^ What he said. :-)

SoCalMX 11-10-2014 11:15 PM

The stereo amplifier is connected to the battery via a massive cable that has its own fuse. @ Kevlar7r- Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to get a good charge on the battery but even a decent charge yesterday had absolutely no clicking or anything when switching the key to the run position, as stated before, not even the low oil pressure alarm sounds! If my boat has a battery switch, I have no clue where it is?

Kevlar7r 11-11-2014 12:18 AM

Why don't you try disconnecting the battery, and hooking the charger up directly. What size is your battery charger? Hopefully at least 10 amps. 24 hours on that should get you there.

mmwjr 11-11-2014 01:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevlar7r (Post 35282)
Why don't you try disconnecting the battery, and hooking the charger up directly. What size is your battery charger? Hopefully at least 10 amps. 24 hours on that should get you there.

+1 is the amp on a switch? If not it is drawing power all the time including from the battery charger. Disconnect it a and see if the battery charges faster

PS a battery switch will not disconnect that amp that is directly wired to the battery

SoCalMX 11-12-2014 08:47 PM

Ok so I connected a loose wire I had laying around in the garage to the positive on the stereo amp, (which the test light showed I have constant power) to the constant power prong on the back of the key switch and voila, turn the key and everything works, both alarm beep and the boat cranks! Key switch is fine now to follow that constant power line (purple with red stripe) back and see where the fault is!

SoCalMX 11-12-2014 10:08 PM

BWAHAHAHAHAHAH.....HAHAHAHAHA....


Ok now I can stop laughing at myself. (typing while having a couple whisky's!)

I traced that power wire back to the fuse panel, I checked the fuses though, remember!? Well I decided to throw a brand new fuse is there and done! :lol: The fuse I did pull out was not blown, just had some corrosion going on inside. I guess a fuse doesn't need to be 'blown' to be bad! At least I can say I learned a bit about the electrical system in the boat! :ohwell:

Supposed to be 78 this weekend so I notified the folks of a re-schedule, looks like a Sunday-funday on the water, with a little bar hopping & football mixed in! Thanks to all for the help, especially mmwjr (Mike)! Now back to this whisky...:happy:

Kevlar7r 11-12-2014 11:57 PM

Yup. Welcome to boating!!!! Glad it ended up being something simple!!! What's the whisky of choice?

SoCalMX 11-13-2014 01:29 AM

Knob Creek for today! I mix it up and typically drink what we have in the house at the time.

mmwjr 11-13-2014 01:57 AM

Glad to hear you resolved the issue. Some have had to replace their fuse panel due to corrosion issues with the contacts.

Now that the boat is running find some free time to learn how to use a volt meter as it will help to resolve future problems quicker.

BTY pour one for me:rockon:

shrew 11-13-2014 03:10 PM

That was happening with mine. You can unseat, then reseat the blade fuses. Do it several times. It will scrape the corrosion off of the fuse and the connections on the bus. I ended up replacing both fuse panels and all the fuses and went from slide on connectors to ring terminals.

SoCalMX 11-13-2014 04:19 PM

@ mmwjr, picked up a quality volt meter an electrician friend gave me and learning for sure!

Strange thing is that one fuse was the only corroded one on the panel. I had a radio issue a few weeks back and checked all the fuses, I think by pulling it I messed up the little connection it did have...

Now to diagnose the leaking drive fluid. Not that bad I guess? I just have to add a few ounces after every trip out.

Kevlar7r 11-13-2014 06:13 PM

This will be a new thread, but where is it leaking to? Do you see an oil sheen on the water, or is it ending up in your bilge?

SoCalMX 11-13-2014 06:46 PM

Not in the bilge. I have not seen anything on the water either, maybe it is too small an amount!?

A mod should re-title the thread, "SoCalMX's bonehead noob problem solving thread!" :cool:

mmwjr 11-13-2014 07:49 PM

A few ounces after each trip does not seem small. I would be concerned if a seal in the outdrive water may be entering as well. You may want to loosen the drain plug to see if any water comes out. Better yet drain it and perform a leak down test then refill if ok.

SoCalMX 11-14-2014 12:08 AM

Loosen the drain plug for the outdrive? Will try and locate.

mmwjr 11-14-2014 12:51 PM

Front starboard side of outdrive bullet.

mmwjr 04-23-2015 12:22 PM

What the SPAM!

shrew 04-23-2015 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mmwjr (Post 36724)
What the SPAM!

I got him.


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