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Old 09-27-2008, 11:35 PM   #1
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Default raw water pump

what should I service (end of year )on the raw water pump just the impeller
??it is working fine just want to be set for next year thank
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Old 09-29-2008, 01:49 AM   #2
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for end of yr. service..I'd do nothing with the impeller......just change the oils...drain and refill the outdrive...then fog the engine and fill the raw water with antifreeze......drain all fresh water tanks and put some of the pink stuff in it....run it thru the lines...put some dryeze moisture collectors in the cabin and take the batt's out or keep a trickle charger on it....done...
change the impeller next spring at commisioning....
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Old 11-15-2008, 10:29 PM   #3
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you will notice the engine starting to run a bit hotter long before the pump is shot. I replace mine on my old boat this last summer and it was really shot.
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Old 03-23-2009, 02:48 PM   #4
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Carry a spare! I had one fail underway and it had less that one season on it. When I pulled it out the impeller was fine but the bond between the impeller and the sleeve failed so the sleeve was just spinning free inside the impeller.
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Old 03-26-2009, 07:15 PM   #5
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Are you sugesting changing it on the water? How the heck would you do that.
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Old 03-26-2009, 07:57 PM   #6
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you can't on a a1g2 drive...the impeller is in the lower unit....thus it's got to come apart..
B3 drives are attached at the engine pulley...driven by the serpentine belt..



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Old 03-26-2009, 08:02 PM   #7
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Oh I get it. Ya on mine you would be insane to take it apart on the water. I did not like doing in in the driveway.
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Old 03-27-2009, 05:42 PM   #8
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Seapuppy: do you change just the impeller or the entire housing for your Bravo III? I have been told that it is best to replace the entire housing because the old one may have worn grooves in it which would then not match the new impeller and could cause airation. A whole new housing is apparently about $300, however. :shock:
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Old 03-29-2009, 06:17 PM   #9
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You can check the condition of the housing when you take out the impellor,the only way i can see that the housing would be damaged is if the pump has been run dry then the heat generated between the rubber and plastic could damage the housing

regds ash
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Old 03-30-2009, 09:44 PM   #10
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I am told it depends how much sand goes through it. The sand scores the inside of the hosuing.
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Old 03-31-2009, 07:00 PM   #11
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I know the Alphas are in the lower unit and, as previously stated, must be changed out of water. I am not sure about B3 pumps being $300. If so, they must be the bronze pumps. On the B2 the impeller casing is plastic or resin composite and the whole kit is about $50 +/- depending on how good a shopper you are. You can change the pump in the water. All you need to do is be sure to raise the inlet hose above the water line when you pull it off so it doesn't gravity feed into the bilge. I have changes out 3 to date and always do the impeller, case & o-ring at the same time.
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Old 03-31-2009, 08:24 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ticamo
Seapuppy: do you change just the impeller or the entire housing for your Bravo III? I have been told that it is best to replace the entire housing because the old one may have worn grooves in it which would then not match the new impeller and could cause airation. A whole new housing is apparently about $300, however. :shock:

dang..just saw this ..somehow I missed this question..sorry...I just change the impeller at 300 hrs....but that depends on how the inside is...and what pump you have.....

if you have a full up metal pump housing..then just replacing the impeller is ok...

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