Handrail Stanchion Repair - Maxum Boat Owners Club

shrew · 08-02-2010, 04:09 PM

I have a 1997 Maxum 2800 SCR. The PO had originally put some fender mounts on the outside of the forward rails. This seems to have bent the rails when he tried to dock beam to, and as a result a number of the base plates for the stanchions are bent up where it screws to the deck. to resolve the PO jammed the base of the stanchions with some caulk and assuemd that would be good enough. I see some rust staining coming from several of the stanchion base plates and assume it is from rusting hardware. I strongly suspect this also the source of some minor water leaking. I'd like to remove and repair or replace the base stanchions.

I'm curious about 2 things:

1) Does anyone know if the hand rail stanchions are screwed or through bolted to the deck?

2) Does anyone know if the handrail is one long piece, or is it made of sections from stanchion to stanchion?

Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

Steve

seapuppy · 08-02-2010, 07:07 PM

From the Maxum guys..

The stanchions are thru-bolted, they must be cleaned really, really well, removing all old sealant. The rail should be at least 3 pieces, some are actually 5 (2 rail ends, 2 side rail and 1 nose piece). You never know if someone has changed how the factory built the unit.

SP

shrew · 08-03-2010, 04:34 PM

How the heck do I get to the nuts and washers underneath the deck? I'm sure the few up in the anchor locker aren't difficult, but the ones along the gunnels would be covered up buy the cabin headliner I would think. Do I need to remove part of the headliner?

seapuppy · 08-03-2010, 05:15 PM

yep..that's the only way to get too them...

sorry..

SP

shrew · 08-04-2010, 12:22 PM

Arg, that's what I thought. %$#@!! The only way I can see to do this is to remove the rub rail, so I can unscrew the screws through the deck/hull seem which hold the interior panels in place in order to remove that section of headliner, so that I can get at the bolts on the inside of the deck. Geez i might as well replace the chromed zinc cleats which are starting to show signs of internal rust as well. I guess since I wanted to replace or reseal the rub rail I can kill 3 birds with one stone but DANG, this is going to be a much bigger project than I expected. Guess I'll wait until she's on the hard this fall.

seapuppy · 08-04-2010, 01:07 PM

removing and replacing the rubrail is relatively easy..use a hairdryer to warm the rubber insert up...then once warm...use an awl to pry it out....replacing is easy ..just start at one end and using a rubber mallet....carefully pound the rubber in..

good luck and take lotsa pic's on the project.....

SP

ed & inge · 08-04-2010, 02:22 PM

hai shrew...

if you want to do it easy make a little incissions in the roof cloth where the nuts and bolts are just enough for your tool to grap it, then you dont have to take everything of.

when you are ready by doing wath you want, install bolt and nuts sealed with silicone and stainless steel rings back and cover it from the inside with plastic caps (thats the way it was origianally on my bayliner 2855 1997)

saves you a lot of hours work and the chance of having leaks at the rub rails

greatz, ed