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Old 08-19-2016, 01:58 PM   #11
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A new B3 is $4000 - $5000, rebuilding will be about half the cost if only isolated to the forward gear and clutch.

Why it happened??? Things wear out or kissing the bottom you hit something hard but the props would be damaged as well.
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Old 08-24-2016, 08:04 PM   #12
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A new B3 is $4000 - $5000, rebuilding will be about half the cost if only isolated to the forward gear and clutch.

Why it happened??? Things wear out or kissing the bottom you hit something hard but the props would be damaged as well.


So, looked at the the u-joint and it seemed to be fine as did the yoke. When looking at all of this I mentioned to the guy looking at the boat that you thought it may be the cone clutch/ forward gear. We didn't get to looking into that but he later told me he discussed this with a mechanic at the local sea-ray dealer and if I remember right he told me that it wouldn't even go in gear if that was the problem. Something along those lines. So he ruled that out. However since we didn't open anything up that would show damage there we can't be for sure in my opinion.

The only thing we noticed that seemed odd was when we turned the prop you could hear a small very faint metal grinding against metal sound every time the prop did a full single rotation. I believe this was when we turned the prop in both forward and reverse.

Going to take the prop off here soon. Didn't have the right size socket for the prop lock key.

Again I appreciate all of you help! Any other ideas or suggestions are always welcome!
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Old 08-24-2016, 09:36 PM   #13
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Did he drain any gear lube to look for metal fillings? Also the drain plug has a magnet on it so any filling would be stuck to it.

If truly only an issue in forward it has to be centered around the cone clutch and forward gear as all other parts are commonly used in reverse.
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Old 08-25-2016, 12:26 AM   #14
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Any pair of gears could have worn in the forward direction and be making noise and when you go in reverse, the back side of those teeth still have the factory finish and are quiet.


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Old 08-25-2016, 01:52 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by speedysprocket View Post
Any pair of gears could have worn in the forward direction and be making noise and when you go in reverse, the back side of those teeth still have the factory finish and are quiet.


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While possible based on the OPs initial post with video I think this is not the case.
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Old 08-31-2016, 12:56 AM   #16
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Mike and Speedy, thanks for responding to the thread!

To Mike's question. I ran the boat on the muffs today for about 15 minutes to warm the engine. After that I did finally pull the oil plug and fortunately we found no metal fragments. We looked on the magnet on the plug as well as in the oil that we drained out. We didn't drain much but the gentlemen I am working with said that was enough to tell if there were metal fragments or not.

I have another guy coming out soon to ride with me to hear the noise then he will probably end up pulling the outdrive apart.

On a side note...my engine oil is very old. I forgot to change it out last season and I had just assumed the dealer I bought it from would have changed it before I bought it. Well they didn't, so my oil is at least a few seasons old.
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Old 08-31-2016, 01:30 AM   #17
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Yep that should be enough to tell if metal is in the lube. It will interesting on the final outcome here as if there is a drive issue I would expect some metal at least on the drain plug magnet. Yet all other components are turning even in neutral, however the load on them in forward is higher.

Keep us posted.
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Old 08-31-2016, 02:24 PM   #18
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Will do.
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Old 10-18-2016, 03:50 PM   #19
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So final verdict was a blown head gasket and then due to it being like that for a while the head had to be reworked a bit. All is now good to go. So the knocking noise was coming from the gasket not having a proper seal.
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Old 10-18-2016, 03:55 PM   #20
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Glad you got it resolved, did you pull the other head to check it for flatness while the engine was apart?
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