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Old 05-20-2014, 04:34 PM   #11
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I don't think bow in was an option here since the dock had no fingers.
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Old 05-21-2014, 01:32 AM   #12
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I kept my first boat in a slip all season and would forst attache the spring lines then the stern and save the bow for last. Departing I did the opposite order.
How did you do the bow last? Once my stern lines were secure I couldn't reach them unless I threw a loop over.
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Old 05-21-2014, 11:35 AM   #13
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How did you do the bow last? Once my stern lines were secure I couldn't reach them unless I threw a loop over.

In my case this was my slip so I set the lines at the beginning of each season. All depends on the spacing of the piles, you can leave the spring and transom lines loose enough that you can move the boat abound in the slip to attach the bow lines, once all are attached readjust them as required. Once again it comes down to trial and error, every slip will be a little different and you will learn to judge what works for you under each condition as you get experience.
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Old 05-21-2014, 01:40 PM   #14
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If I'm pulling into a fixed slip for the first time, I take lines with spliced/braided loops and run the line into the loop end making a large adjustable loop. These are slipped over the pilings and pulled tight. They are then cleat tied to the cleats. I'd do this with 2 bows, two sterns and typically 2 aft springs. If it's a slip I'll be in for the season then 2 forward springs as well. I'd especially be using two forward springs if there were no finger pier and you were embarking/disembarking 'quay' style, as you described. It's much easier to tune the length on the boat cleat. If it was a transient slip I'd probably stay that way. If it were a seaonal slip, then i take 1 extra line and start turning the lines around. I tend to start at the bow and move back. Since all the line lengths have been adjusted, I can take the spare line and clove hitch or 2-turn on the piling with 2 half-hitches. I use the existing line as a 'template' for length. Once I have a line the same exact length as the first line with loop end on the cleat, I remove the first line. Take that spare line to teh next cleat. When your done, you have all the lines turned around with the loop on the cleat side and they are all sized perfectly. You will have a spare line left in your hand that can get stowed away.

I'm not sure if this makes sense, but that is how i do it. It works. It also helps if there are some kind of line retainer on the pile to keep the line from slipping down.

As for backing in. try to turn the wheel slightly to counter the prop walk. Or align yourself offcenter to account for it. It's harder in a single, but the guys with twins make it work for them.
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Old 05-21-2014, 03:10 PM   #15
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I think you handled it pretty well, but I'm more impressed that you spent all day fishing and didn't have to pee once.

Once you had the spring lines secured I would used them to pull the boat forward and attached the bow lines, leaving them slack. Reverse the boat and secure the stern lines. Cut the engine, and tighten up all lines.
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Old 05-27-2014, 05:16 PM   #16
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If I'm pulling into a fixed slip for the first time, I take lines with spliced/braided loops and run the line into the loop end making a large adjustable loop. These are slipped over the pilings and pulled tight. They are then cleat tied to the cleats. I'd do this with 2 bows, two sterns and typically 2 aft springs. If it's a slip I'll be in for the season then 2 forward springs as well. I'd especially be using two forward springs if there were no finger pier and you were embarking/disembarking 'quay' style, as you described. It's much easier to tune the length on the boat cleat. If it was a transient slip I'd probably stay that way. If it were a seaonal slip, then i take 1 extra line and start turning the lines around. I tend to start at the bow and move back. Since all the line lengths have been adjusted, I can take the spare line and clove hitch or 2-turn on the piling with 2 half-hitches. I use the existing line as a 'template' for length. Once I have a line the same exact length as the first line with loop end on the cleat, I remove the first line. Take that spare line to teh next cleat. When your done, you have all the lines turned around with the loop on the cleat side and they are all sized perfectly. You will have a spare line left in your hand that can get stowed away.

I'm not sure if this makes sense, but that is how i do it. It works. It also helps if there are some kind of line retainer on the pile to keep the line from slipping down.

As for backing in. try to turn the wheel slightly to counter the prop walk. Or align yourself offcenter to account for it. It's harder in a single, but the guys with twins make it work for them.
I appreciate the post. I never thought about making a big adjustable loop using the spliced ends. It would have made things much easier if I had thought of that. I just bought a pair of 25 foot lines with pre spliced loops so that I will be able to do this in the future.
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