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Old 06-29-2015, 10:43 PM   #21
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Well, yea... Technically every week... But they do have internet here. I couldn't leave you guys!!!!



Since were talking vacuum, you know why there is nothing vacuum operated on a diesel? Diesels don't have a throttle. They control engine speed by metering fuel. Incidentally, that is why diesels don't produce carbon monoxide. They are always running in an excess of air.
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Old 06-29-2015, 11:05 PM   #22
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I suspect you would have Internet just thought you would be busy.

Interest info on diesels
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Old 06-29-2015, 11:17 PM   #23
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Well, its part of why I really want a diesel boat someday. No CO, diesel fuel is non-explosive, and nearly Twice as efficient for a small increase in fuel cost (in many places right now, diesel is actually cheaper).
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Old 07-07-2015, 02:24 PM   #24
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Well, I got a timing light and we tried to get it adjusted properly. Unable to read the stationary tab for degree marks. Assuming the deep V notch in the tab is TDC we set the timing to the left of that notch (BTDC?). It ran better. Reset it to about a half inch off the tab. It runs GREAT now!

Was able to get up to 4300 RPM and 46 MPH with 2 on board. Even at that speed it wasn't into the 4 bbl. We cruised for at least 20 miles without issue.

Cruising along at 4000 RPM it would occasionally 'surge' a few rpm then drop back. With a 40(?) gal tank, I'm thinking we've got some really old gas in the tank yet and probably gunk in the combustion chambers. We'll let the tank go down towards empty before refilling; especially now that the gas gauge decided to start working....

Thanks for your help. We're looking forward to lots of good boating now.

Now that the 20 year old boat is running great, my attention is now on the trailer... I suspect that we're getting no braking from the trailer (tandem axle) at all. The emergency break away cable has been cut off, we're able to back up with no problems (meaning we don't have to disengage the trailer brakes) and on steep downhill grades the boat is doing some serious pushing of the tow vehicle.

The trailer matches the boat, '95 Maxum 2100 SRB, which I don't believe got used much as the boat was in dry storage most of the time.

I don't think the trailer has ever had maintenance. Got some good information to get me started?

Again, Thanks very much for your advice.

Bill
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Old 07-07-2015, 02:40 PM   #25
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Glad to hear it.



Trailers are pretty straight forward. If you have electric brakes, they are controlled by the box in the truck. Any issues there would be corrosion in the brakes, or wiring issues.



Surge brakes work just like automotive brakes, but instead of your foot pushing a pedal and rod to compress the master cylinder, the master cylinder is built in to the tongue of the trailer. The vehicle slowing faster than the trailer causes the trailer to push forward and compress that cylinder, actuating the brakes. The breakaway cable just slams the master cylinder home, locking the brakes. Same possibilities for issues there, corrosion in the master cylinder preventing movement, or in the brakes themselves.





I recommend installing bearing buddies, but many people have a misconception about what they do. The do not make your bearings last longer by putting more grease in. What they do is add a reservoir of grease so that when the bearings are suddenly cooled by being submerged in water, they suck in grease past the seals rather than water. This is why you will never see them on anything but a boat trailer. They are essentially useless on a road-only trailer.



Always use trailer specific tires, not radials. They will last MUCH longer and are much safer. A trailer tire doesn't need traction the way a car tire does, so totally different construction.



Take care of your bunks, recarpet if necessary. They are touching your hull, any damage on them will damage your hull.



Always use a safety chain on your winch cable.



Always strap the transom down to the trailer. A bit of a misnomer there, as you are really strapping the trailer up to the boat.when you hit a bump which lifts the boat, you want the boat and the trailer to act as a unit. Imagine the boat coming back down slightly crooked to the trailer and the ensuing damage.
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Old 07-07-2015, 03:15 PM   #26
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Bill do not recall you answering which ignition system you have TB IV or V if TB V there is a procedure to ground a wire to set base timing then remove the ground so the ECM can provide electronic advance as required
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Old 07-07-2015, 07:44 PM   #27
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The only thing noted on the 'air cleaner' is Thunderbolt. Not IV or V just TB.
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Old 07-07-2015, 09:10 PM   #28
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As my daddy always told.... The stiffest part of a boat trailer, is the boat. ��
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Old 07-07-2015, 09:13 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sled600 View Post
As my daddy always told.... The stiffest part of a boat trailer, is the boat. ��


Lol, 90% of the knowledge im spouting here was learned from my dad.



50% of it I didn't listen to and went an re-learned it myself....$$$$$
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Old 07-08-2015, 02:31 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwycuff View Post
The only thing noted on the 'air cleaner' is Thunderbolt. Not IV or V just TB.

Do you have an ignition module located on the port riser? If so TB IV.

TB V is a small module located on the distributor.

Can you post a few pictures of your engine?
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