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Old 10-25-2011, 05:29 PM   #1
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Default fuse box 2800 scr

hey guys,,

has anyone changed their fuse box with a more reliable, sterdy, aftermarket one?
if you have, why did you need or want to? and what f/box did you go with?

Thanks,,
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:05 PM   #2
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I definately want to replace my fuse block next year as well. I an going with the Blue Sea 12 place fuse block. It is a newer version of what is there now. I replaced all my guages this year and I did have to enlarge the holes but it turned out great. Maxum used a tarded size guage that you can't get new anymore. I also have a 98 2800.
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Old 10-26-2011, 04:05 AM   #3
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My 2001 2900 SCR had THE crappiest fuse boxes/blocks under the steering wheel (behind that cloth "panel" that covers the fuse area). The "slots" that held the blade-type fuses were lousy... the fuses would randomly not make contact, making me think they were blown. So I replaced them with Blue Sea's 12 position fuse block (two of them actually). Took about 5 hours on my back one afternoon... cutting, splicing, crimping and connecting wires in that cramped area near the helm station. But it was WORTH it! I haven't had ONE fuse go out/blow since I did this project three seasons ago. I had grandiose plans of labeling each fuse, but tracking them all down was nearly impossible... besides---none have blown or come loose since I did this project so it didn't matter.
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:01 PM   #4
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Jeffmeans completed my write-up for me, so ^^^^^Ditto^^^^^ 2 x 12 Blue Seas. The Blue Seas fuse block uses ring terminals. You'll ned to make sure you get the correct sizes of ring terminals in a variety of guages. It's more ackward in regards to sitting on your back and doing the work. If you can find someone who is willing to help hand you things it makes things much easier. Otherwise, you will be up and down 1,000 times during the project.
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Old 10-26-2011, 04:10 PM   #5
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thanks, i will check out the 2 x 12 Blue Seas
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Old 10-27-2011, 07:07 PM   #6
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if it works don't fix it.

your first fuse is the 80 amp fuseible link sitting on top of the starter hot lug. this protects the engine and boat harnesss. Never run the boat on BOTH batteries... that over 80amp!



this is how i found my used boat, new and old, new for $32 bucks.

the second row of fueses are the six canster type that are around your main battery switch, the caps pull off and you find the normal under the dash fuse.

the third for the curcuits under the dash, note the diagram in the manual shows the second block reversed.

so, why would you replace the blocks if not water damaged?
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Old 10-28-2011, 04:46 PM   #7
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im looking to replace them because some lights and other small things were not working,, so i check the fuses and just from me pulling the fuses in and out to check them stuff started working here and there, so i beleve the boxes are just crapy ,, plus i hear the same stories from other people with my boat
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Old 10-28-2011, 06:08 PM   #8
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you can buy these u-type fuses that light up when they are working, its like a little LED right in the middle in Autozone.

I was to cheap to spend the $2 extra dollars, but I did replace all my fuses with the correct AMP color per the manual.

usually, the fuse is the last thing to go, sincer shorts are usally intermittent.
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Old 11-01-2011, 02:08 PM   #9
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I replaced mine because the fuses, the fuse holders and the connectors were all showing signs of corrosion. I was hainvg a lot of 12 volt issues. Devices were not working properly, I'd have to seat and unseat fuses, and have a lot of mysterious issues with draw. Unfortunately, this did not actually solve my problem completely, but it did help. I'm actually finding that the grounding everywhere on my boat is showing heavy signs of oxidation. most ground wires I look at are completely black through all the wires in the cable and as far back as I can stri pteh sheathing. What I do notice is things like my indash volt meter bounces between 10V and 13volt when running. The more things I power down like the fridge and Radar the better my volt meter shows. The odd part is the more my volt meter dips, the higher my Temp. guage reads in correlation. I'm thinking about hiring a ABYC electrician to do some major work as a next step.
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Old 11-01-2011, 04:05 PM   #10
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most people think the alternater makes no load on the engine to spin it around at 3800 rpm, this is incorrect. Unlike the old genertors car prior to 1960 which only changed when tunring fast, an alternator will produce as soon as a electrial load is needed, reguardless of how fast the engine is turning it.

a short will spike the alternator to max amp and can bog the engine down, or throw a belt.

I think your amp gauge is telling you the truth, you are pulling a huge electical load, or short, and the load of the engine is causing the temp to rise.

A lot of mechinic like to shoot the messenger.... your gauges, or te fuses but i think you have a short.

the correct way to find it, is to run the boat next summer, pulling one fuse out each trip and go down the rows until you see the gauge react.

I will go on record and say its your 12v carbonmoxied dector which only as a life of 5 years.
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