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Old 08-24-2018, 10:21 PM   #1
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Default Shift Cable Replacement

My throttle will not advance past 45 degrees or so of travel. It used to go 90 degrees plus before my overheat.
I've also noticed that the shift pin on the lower unit does not move when I move the throttle lever from reverse, to neutral, then forward.
Are this symptoms of a failed shift cable?
Any suggestions you have would be most appreciated.
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Old 08-24-2018, 10:26 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by jrsick View Post
My throttle will not advance past 45 degrees or so of travel. It used to go 90 degrees plus before my overheat.
I've also noticed that the shift pin on the lower unit does not move when I move the throttle lever from reverse, to neutral, then forward.
Are this symptoms of a failed shift cable?
Any suggestions you have would be most appreciated.
Try disconnecting the helm shift cable at the shift bracket to see if the throttle moves full range. Try shifting the lower cable at the shift bracket with it disconnected to see if you can get it into and out of both forward and reverse.
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Old 08-25-2018, 02:24 PM   #3
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Thanks Mike.
I disconnected the throttle cable from the carburetor, and now the throttle lever moves normally. No binding in the cable or throttle handle.
The problem is at the carburetor, I can't manually open the throttle. It's frozen.
Do you think some Seafoam down the carb would loosen it up?
Mercruiser manual doesn't address this condition, so starting my online research.
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Old 08-25-2018, 10:08 PM   #4
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Thanks Mike.
I disconnected the throttle cable from the carburetor, and now the throttle lever moves normally. No binding in the cable or throttle handle.
The problem is at the carburetor, I can't manually open the throttle. It's frozen.
Do you think some Seafoam down the carb would loosen it up?
Mercruiser manual doesn't address this condition, so starting my online research.
Kano-Kroil is the best.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kano-Labs-A...MAAOSwnN5bgaDt

You can try in some industrial places in your area. Like Bearing sale, auto-moto, etc.
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Old 08-25-2018, 10:46 PM   #5
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Thanks Gugi. I've been using some carburetor cleaner with no luck. I removed the carb and have it soaking in carb dip now. This is what it looks like. After the carb dip does its thing I'll be able to tell how much of this is varnish and how much is rust. Any rust and I'll probably go with a new carb.
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Old 08-25-2018, 11:38 PM   #6
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Thatís a lot of tarnish. Aluminum and brass should not have rust, get some carb spray cleaner as well to blast the throttle plates. May be time to just rebuild it.
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Old 08-26-2018, 12:01 PM   #7
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Two hours in the carburetor dip and the throttle lever still won't budge. I'll soak it again today then start looking for a new carb if its still frozen.
I've never seen this situation before and am stumped. Can a varnish build up in the barrels be enough to cause this? It's a fairly simple design.
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Old 08-26-2018, 12:51 PM   #8
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Varnish would make it sticky, but my best is on corrosion in the journals the shaft runs thru. Two different metals and the natural spot for moisture to collect.
Hit it with the Kroil or PB Blaster after the soak.
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Old 08-26-2018, 01:48 PM   #9
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Varnish would make it sticky, but my best is on corrosion in the journals the shaft runs thru. Two different metals and the natural spot for moisture to collect.
Hit it with the Kroil or PB Blaster after the soak.
Agree. The shaft bushing may be bad and will cause a vacuum leak.
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Old 08-26-2018, 07:25 PM   #10
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Varnish would make it sticky, but my best is on corrosion in the journals the shaft runs thru. Two different metals and the natural spot for moisture to collect.
Hit it with the Kroil or PB Blaster after the soak.
Kroil? That's for rust only....Hmmmm or I'm wrong again.....
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