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Old 06-28-2011, 04:35 AM   #1
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Default Crazy Boat Project #2

Well the official start of the "I'm Insane" project has finished. I actually have some exciting (for me) news to report. Sorry there are no pictures but by the time I slowed down it was dark.

The day started at the marina at 9am to borrow a B3 wrench to remove the props from the boat. As I expected the marina hands just offered to take them off for me (it's amazing what happens when you don't owe them money and pay your bill when it arrives)

I then had an important client to meet in Kansas City (65 miles away) that took 5 minutes and it was off to the prop shop. I went ahead and pulled all four props. After a quick examination and a measurement he nicely handed 3 of the 4 back to me with the statement that he would be happy to charge me $50 a piece to shine them up real nice but they are in great shape and would look exactly the same in a month. I appreciated the help and was quoted $140 to weld three spots and bring the bad one back into pristine condition.

After a quick lunch I decided that I had worked enough for the day and headed to the marina. Work started at 2pm with word from the marina fiberglass shop that they were going to start fixing my fiberglass promptly at 7am tuesday morning. This would mean that there would be no pressure washing or water washing the boat for most if not all of tuesday. I decided I better get any water work I needed done and done today.

I started by pressure washing the entire boat but mostly concentrated on the water line and the stern. All the Zebra mussels, algea, and crap had to come completely off if I was going to repaint the visable bottom paint. With my washer humming for an almost non stop 2 hours I completed the initial washing and the boat was then just dirty.

I broke out my bottle of Poli Prep and decided to test it on a test back corner of the boat where the boat full of gas actually sits above the bottom paint leaving a horrific brown stain that just never comes out. (BTW: Plan of fixing that with a slight adjustment to the paint).

NOTE: Poli Prep and it's sister Poli OX (for stainless, chrome, and really bad oxidation) is the absolute best product I've ever used. Even you guys who demand on waxing you will find no better chemical to clean everything from your boat. I had four large brown stains on my fiber that were from the old owners leaving the camper cover on for years at a time. Hull cleaner, acetone, buffing, none of this even made the stain lessen. A few scrubs of Poli Prep and one single wipe with a green pad with some Poli Ox and it looked like new.

NOTE: While this stuff is awesome DO NOT LET IT TOUCH YOUR BOTTOM PAINT. My first test of the Poli Prep was right on the water line and I'm telling you this stuff melts the bottom paint right off. It was actually a good thing for me as I was working on that anyways but if your not repainting you need to be very careful.

After knowing it would work I started on the bow. I can tell you that no single inch of my boat wasn't hit with the poli prep and a scrub brush. (It says to wear gloves.......I did not.....still alive) Starting at the anchor and moving back on my hands and knees I scrubbed every inch of the bow, the sides, and the arch. This project finished at about 4:30 (98 degrees) with a break for some water and more on my head and then more in my mouth.

I then moved the party to the sides of the hull and the rest of the boat. My relief showed up at 5:20 and by 7:00 we had prepped the entire boat. We would spray a 5 foot section with water, spray on the prep, scrub it in, and wash it back off. I then used my pickup as opposed to a ladder to reach the tall areas of the boat and got them all ready to go. The boat looked AWESOME.....until it dried. Now it looks like a really clean boat that needs wax. (Oh Polyglow I hope I love you).

That party ended with another pressure washing from top to bottom just to make sure no prep was left on the boat.

My wife then showed up so we went to a little bar and had some dinner which lasted until 8:15.

After that it was back to the boat with sanders in hand. My help and I sanded every square inch of bottom paint that needed treated with 100grit paper. It also covered us in black dust so bad at one point I thought I could run for president.

The sanding job concluded with yet another round of power washing of the recently sanded areas. It ended up being about perfect. All areas have been roughed up and are smooth to the touch. Parts of the gel can start to be seen on the under water sections where the pressure and sanding were more effective. She is definately ready for paint.

The night ended with a misquito party while my friend and I applyed blue painters tape to the entire line of the boat in preperation of the painting. It was not a fun job getting bit every other second but we got her on and even made what I think will be an effective change to the line towards the back of the boat to keep the scum off the gel coat.

A clean up of tools, cover the boat, and headed home for an hour long shower, energy drink and very soon bed.

The plan for tomorrow is to actually make some money until about 3pm. By 5pm I want a full coat of paint on the bottom, I then meet with the mechanic to get my stuff fixed/maintained (oh by the way.......good catch on the anodes---they were ordered by 9am and will be in tomorrow). Then a second coat of bottom paint before the sun goes down (it's nice when the drying time for the next coat in 95 degree heat is only 90 minutes.)

That would leave me with Wednesday and Thursday to PolyGlow the living crap out of the boat, pick up the prop, put her back together and meet my decal man on Friday night to put the new digs on her while she's in the slip.

I gotta say that I'm very happy with day one. Got atleast two steps further than I had planned. If I can keep it going this might just work.
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Old 06-28-2011, 03:26 PM   #2
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Awesome update Shep. congrats on the progress.

Just a quick note regarding the anodes. The ones on the drive rams are held on by two long, skinny, fine thread bolts that like to snap off to keep your day interesting. I don't know how good your "feel" for such things are but it they don't feel like they are budging (they will NOT take much torque to move them) then work them back and forth ever so slightly to help break the corrosion where they thread into the rams.

Continued good luck......

Dan
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Old 06-28-2011, 03:30 PM   #3
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Awesome update Shep. congrats on the progress.

Just a quick note regarding the anodes. The ones on the drive rams are held on by two long, skinny, fine thread bolts that like to snap off to keep your day interesting. I don't know how good your "feel" for such things are but it they don't feel like they are budging (they will NOT take much torque to move them) then work them back and forth ever so slightly to help break the corrosion where they thread into the rams.

Continued good luck......

Dan
Good Tip Dan,

Also remember to apply anti sieze on the screw threads before you reinstall them. (I use it on sparkplugs too)

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Old 06-28-2011, 04:54 PM   #4
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Bella,
What type of anti seize do you use? I have been taught to NEVER put anything on the fasteners holding a zinc or anode, it breaks the electical current and defeats the purpose of the anode. Is the stuff you use conductive?
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Old 06-28-2011, 06:42 PM   #5
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Bella,
What type of anti seize do you use? I have been taught to NEVER put anything on the fasteners holding a zinc or anode, it breaks the electical current and defeats the purpose of the anode. Is the stuff you use conductive?
Yes. The Permatex #133A is a non ferrous (does not contain iron) aluminum (conductive) based Antisieze. As I said I use it for Sparkplugs. it it were not conductive you wouldn't get spark.
Works great.

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Old 06-28-2011, 06:57 PM   #6
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Thanks for the Permatex idea Bella - just ordered some. I hate it when those screws break.
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Old 06-29-2011, 12:39 PM   #7
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Thanks for the Permatex idea Bella - just ordered some. I hate it when those screws break.
Anytime Nimh,

I love the stuff and swear by it. One word of caution when using it in blind holes (not a thru hole) like the outdrive annodes, apply a then film inside each hole with a new Q tip each time and use only once. Also apply it to the screw threads. Avoid fillling the the hole with too much or the screw will "hydraulic" and bottom out preventing it from becoming tight. if that happens remove the screw and wick some out with another clean Q tip.

On your sparky plugs; don't over do it and use it sparingly. I put a half a pea sized amount on the threads in the middle then spin the plug threads on you fingertip to distribute it evenly around the entire circumference of the thread being careful not to get it near the electrode tip.

You'll never gall a thread or break a screw if you use it properly.

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Permatex® Anti-Seize Lubricant

A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing and to assure easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°Cto 871°C). Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant – ideal for marine use. Non-aerosol version meets Mil Spec #907E. Aerosol - Level 3*
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Old 06-29-2011, 01:05 PM   #8
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NOTE: While this stuff is awesome DO NOT LET IT TOUCH YOUR BOTTOM PAINT. My first test of the Poli Prep was right on the water line and I'm telling you this stuff melts the bottom paint right off. It was actually a good thing for me as I was working on that anyways but if your not repainting you need to be very careful.

That would leave me with Wednesday and Thursday to PolyGlow the living crap out of the boat, pick up the prop, put her back together and meet my decal man on Friday night to put the new digs on her while she's in the slip.

I gotta say that I'm very happy with day one. Got atleast two steps further than I had planned. If I can keep it going this might just work.
Tackleshep,

Atta Boy! I told ya that their products work!

A coulpa comments: Wash the entire boat with soap and some sort of furry bonnet then rinse from top to bottom to make sure that all the dust from the Poliox is removed. This will prevent any remnants from spoiling the application of the god like Poliglow sealant. Make sure the weather is not windy if you are applying it in a dusty environment like a parking lot. The dust will end up in any still wet poliglow and stick like shizzle to a blanket! Also don’t apply it if it will rain within a few hours. Tape off the entire boot line of bottom paint with 2" tape and don't get touch the applicator to the bottom paint. Use a piece of masking tape to mark where you have left off, then you can easily identify where to overlap your starting and stopping points. Apply it THIN, don’t overload the applicator. Thinner is better because it is less likely to run. If you get a run you can sand it with 600 grit paper wrapped on a firm sponge. Wear tight fitting latex exam gloves and change them often. Don't let the applicator dry out or get crusty. if it does rinse it then dry it by wrapping it in a towel and stand on it to dry then re-wet with PG. Store in a sealed plastic bag when not using even for a few minutes, this stuff dries FAST.

Take Midol for any headaches!

Good luck. You’re going to love it even though I don't have a horse in the race contrary to what a few of you think. Personally I don’t care if anybody uses the stuff or convince one person. You can lead a horse to water……..

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Old 06-29-2011, 05:11 PM   #9
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Wow- Probably should have read this before last night.

I flat to damn tired to type a lengthy update but.

Bottom paint is 70 percent done. Have some heat issues and some crap I want to sand off and re-apply. The paint turned so damn thick something isn't right. I have to remind myself that the entire boat will be bottom painted in a year or so, This doesn't need to be perfect just cosmetically better.

We started on the polyglow and have 6 coats on the port side and 3 on the starboard before running out of daylight. There was a small learning curve with some spots but it went very well.

At this time I am not ready to give a definitive answer on Polyglow.........but I can tell you that currently the boat is un-recognizable. It honestly looks like a completely different color of white. I paid a guy last year to de-oxidize and wax and polish the boat and it just doesn't compare to what it looked like when I went home last night. Yes it is a pain in the ass but it's the prep thats the pain, applying the poly is a cake walk.

IF - in a month from now I wash this boat with soap and water and it looks within 75% of the way it looks now.............well lets just say if I got a collect call from the owner of Polyglow needing bail money......I'd be his man!!

Mechanic didn't make it last night is scheduled or Thursday for sure so waiting to finish the maintenance. prop is fixed and headed to get it shortly. Tonight I hope to finish the bottom paint and the polyglow....things are looking up for sure.......With the exception of 100+ degree days for the next three.
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Old 06-29-2011, 07:55 PM   #10
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one other thing, on the non skid areas get a few disposable 3" wide mini short nap rollers (the ones that come in a blister package that then becomes the paint tray) They work perfect. start at the edges and work toward the middle. you get em done.

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