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Old 10-03-2008, 04:53 PM   #1
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Default Winterize

With boating season wrapping up for many of us, it's time to either shell out some hard owned dough or allocate a weekend for some manual frustration to perform the winterization ritual.

I would like to use this thread as a commonplace for winterization questions, suggestions and otherwise.

Question: I read that you should cap off your fuel tank as part of the winterization process. Is this typically done? What are the benefits or issues if you do fill the tank, and let it sit for 6 months?

Fair winds and following seas!
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Old 10-03-2008, 09:30 PM   #2
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well..it's a good idea to keep all winterizing questions to 1 thread....that way we can store for later use...

So..with that said...I'd say not to cap off your fuel tank...just stick in fuel treatment..run it till you can feel it's into the carb system...then clamp off the fuel line till the engine dies from fuel starvation......also fog the engine at that time.....drain all water out of the fresh water side.....then winterize the different water tanks...fresh and san....since your way up north east....then you can shrink wrap the boat or if you store it in the garage.....make sure you have some proper heat or dryers going...to prevent mold..

SP..
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Old 10-06-2008, 10:39 AM   #3
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I believe that the filling of the tank would mostly concern locations where you get that nice cold weather followed by some mild days, then cycling back and forth like this all winter. This is the kind of weather we get in this part of Canada. Condensation will develop on the inside of the tanks if they are not full. The condensation can cause corrosion on the tank walls as well as water buildup in the tank.
On another winterising question---what is the best way to get all the water out of the fresh water system and then get some antifreeze in there
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Old 10-06-2008, 02:49 PM   #4
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it's always good to keep the tank filled up due to temp differentials and condesations....
so..put a stabilizer in the tank to keep the gas fresh..and then pour antifreeze into the water tank and pump it thru the water system till it comes out of the faucets....

then pump some thru the toilet and let it get into the san tank..

when you recommision the boat..you'll pump all of the pink stuff out..then flush with fresh water and white vinegar...that will keep the water tank fairly fresh......

Sp
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Old 10-10-2008, 12:50 AM   #5
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It's best to use an air compressor top blow the water out of the lines before adding the antifreeze. The plumbing anti freeze looses it's strength very fast when diluted with water. You may want to bypass the hot water tank (to save some anti freeze) but be sure to drain the HWT then add a few gallons of -50 RV anti freeze to the water tank and pump through the lines. I also leave a small amount in the toilet .

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Old 10-14-2008, 02:19 AM   #6
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Default Pacific Northwest winterizing

I am in the water on Lake WA all year. This is the first winter with the 2500. Any thoughts on winterizing since it rarely gets that cold???? I was thinking about a heater in the bilge, emptying the water and waste tank. What about the fresh water cooling system on the engine????

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Old 10-14-2008, 02:55 AM   #7
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just putting a heater in the salon will help alot..keeps the moisture level down...but you definitely don't want to put a heater in the engine bay unless it's CG approved....meaning no way to spark incase there is fuel vapor down there....so..other than that..if there is no ice below the waterline...then there will be no ice in the boat......gotta remember also that most docks will turn their dock water off too..which means you won't have water in the tank...the water tanks are pretty protected from wind...so shouldn't freeze either...

FWC is no big deal...that is just like your car...if you don't have any temps dropping to about 60 below...then the coolant won't freeze either...I'm just a few short miles north and our boat is dry stacked...so we keep heaters on inside the salon going..one is one of those tan looking dryers...and 2 small ceramic heaters going set at say about 45 degs....they come on only when it gets really cold to keep things from freezing inside the boat....might concider that ...or maybe even those dry-eze things..but your going to have to go once a week to empty those things...they really draw the water out of the salon....

hope this helps...

SP
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Old 10-14-2008, 03:32 AM   #8
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THANKS! Any heater recommendations for the bilge area? Also, The FWC, I thought draws water in from outside as well. Either way, if I understand you correctly, I shouldnt have to worry about ice, correct? I plan on topping off the gas tank. Do I need to add any stabilizer to the fuel or oil?
If I do add stabilizer, but then decide to take a mid winter cruise, is that ok, or do I have to add it again after taking a midwinter trip???? Thanks for the input. Oh, I also have shut the seacock valve for the head. What else, hmmmmm.



Quote:
Originally Posted by seapuppy
just putting a heater in the salon will help alot..keeps the moisture level down...but you definitely don't want to put a heater in the engine bay unless it's CG approved....meaning no way to spark incase there is fuel vapor down there....so..other than that..if there is no ice below the waterline...then there will be no ice in the boat......gotta remember also that most docks will turn their dock water off too..which means you won't have water in the tank...the water tanks are pretty protected from wind...so shouldn't freeze either...

FWC is no big deal...that is just like your car...if you don't have any temps dropping to about 60 below...then the coolant won't freeze either...I'm just a few short miles north and our boat is dry stacked...so we keep heaters on inside the salon going..one is one of those tan looking dryers...and 2 small ceramic heaters going set at say about 45 degs....they come on only when it gets really cold to keep things from freezing inside the boat....might concider that ...or maybe even those dry-eze things..but your going to have to go once a week to empty those things...they really draw the water out of the salon....

hope this helps...

SP
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Old 10-14-2008, 03:48 PM   #9
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well..first off...yeah...if you burn the gas off to a near empty tank...you should put stabilizer back in when you top it off...but really ...gas is pretty stable now..it will probably last a few months if your gonna burn it off and the top off....I've burned gas that has sat for months and each yr and nothing has messed up my filters or anything else...just remember that if your going to long term store the boat..then yes..stabile is needed...for a few months...no...not needed....
your seacock for the head should be shut off anyway....your not supposed to dump into lake washington under any circumstances....

heater recommendations....well..I just found a block heater that is magnetic...connect it to a 110 vac extension chord...then stick it to the side of the block..it does get hot and will heat the block water up...unfortunately I can't remember the name...later on I'll call the place where I bought it and ask them what the name is and who makes it..it's a canadian company....maybe do a google search on it or something....anyway....any uscg approved heater can do the job.....but some people I know do this..they get one of those trouble lights and install a shop light..the kind that doesn't explode when they burn out or when banged...they stick one in the engine bay and then will seal the side vents ...keeps the air from blowing thru......I don't recommend this procedure...but some people do it.......

Sp
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Old 10-14-2008, 04:00 PM   #10
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try seattle marine & fishing supply
206-285-5010

I think these folks have just about everything....I'll check when I get home on the catalog...it's huge and they have everything ....

SP
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