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Old 06-22-2018, 02:48 AM   #1
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Default Transom Leaking

After launching my 1994 2700SCR a week ago I have water in my bilge.

The water appears to be coming in from the transom area (its hard to see on these boats) but I can see water trickling across the transom plate just below the shaft on the strbd side. I could not see where the water was entering the boat. I pulled the boat out and took it to my marine buddy, he removed the outdrive because we both suspected U-Joint bellows or shift bellows. Turns out they where both just fine (bone dry inside UJ bellow).

Mechanic suspects it my be coming in around the swivel pin seals. I have done some research and inspected this area (out of the water) and it does seem suspect, the boat is 24 years old. So I am going to float it tomorrow to see if I can pinpoint the where the water is entering the hull. If it is the seals on the swivel pin this usually requires an engine pull, but I have read/ heard about a company who makes a kit to gain access to the nut from the external side of the transom.

Has anyone heard or used this kit?
How hard is it?
Any draw backs? Pro's and Con's
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Old 06-22-2018, 12:05 PM   #2
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When you say entering just below the shaft do mean drive shaft?

Mercruiser makes a kit to replace the swivel shaft and seals without removing the engine as does JR Marine. The JR Marine kit allows for better access to do this but requires cutting away a large piece of material just above the swivel shaft. The kit comes with a plate that gets screwed and sealant to cover access hole. I have read of many folks using the JR Marine kit and none had issues with it. I attached a link for instructions.

Note the stock swivel shaft is steel which rusts over time which is worse for boats kept in the water however Mercruiser does make a SS replacement you just need to ask for it.

Instructions
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Old 06-22-2018, 01:43 PM   #3
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When I say entering I meant was pooling on the flange just below the drive shaft. But I don’t believe the water is entering the boat at that point cuz the UJ / drive shaft bellows are bone dry.
I have been reading about the JR Marine kit. After my water test today I will be able to make a go - no go decision. The JR kit looks farly straight forward, but that means nothing until the job is done and you get to say I saved myself $3000-$5000 bucks.
I’ll try to document this project for all of us to see
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Old 06-22-2018, 02:15 PM   #4
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What kind of outdrive is it?
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Old 06-22-2018, 02:38 PM   #5
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Sorry, It’s a Bravo II I thought I stated that earlier. I’m trying to pictures posted
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Old 06-28-2018, 01:20 PM   #6
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Well its official, while launching the boat last weekend I slowly backed the boat in checking for leaks every couple of inches. No water until the top of the transom housing (bell housing) entered the water. The leak is a slow trickle and it is definitely coming in around the swivel shaft. So it looks like I will be performing transom surgery this fall.

I replaced my float switch and tested the bilge pumps, which are newer. The auto switch only came on 2-3 times after an entire day on the water. So I will monitor daily and hope for a long summer on the lake.
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Old 06-28-2018, 03:53 PM   #7
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Do you have shore power to keep the batteries topped off incase you are away for an extended time?
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Old 06-28-2018, 04:43 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoonRiver View Post
Well its official, while launching the boat last weekend I slowly backed the boat in checking for leaks every couple of inches. No water until the top of the transom housing (bell housing) entered the water. The leak is a slow trickle and it is definitely coming in around the swivel shaft. So it looks like I will be performing transom surgery this fall.

I replaced my float switch and tested the bilge pumps, which are newer. The auto switch only came on 2-3 times after an entire day on the water. So I will monitor daily and hope for a long summer on the lake.
If you get water in around the bellhousing, can be the O ring or you have soft spat on the boat. If is the first one is a easy job the 2nd will be expensive, the engine have to come out. I hope is not the case. If is the O ring. Before you instal it back clean everything very good.
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