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Old 08-13-2013, 09:23 PM   #21
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How, exactly?

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Originally Posted by pascavone View Post
Half open valves, will fill your intake gallery.
Rick, if the plugs look fine - all the same tan to slightly darker brown color, I'd rule out water in the cylinders. As I think Mike mentioned a gallon or two in the crankcase did not come from water getting past the piston rings.

From your description of water coming out of the back of the engine, that much water in the crankcase suggests to me that perhaps the intake manifold gasket(s) failed. The cylinder heads each have two water passages; 1 at the far front of the head and another at the far rear. The intake manifold covers and blocks off the one at the rear which forces all the water coming up from the block and into the heads to be pumped to the front of the heads. If that gasket(s) fails at those cylinder head to intake manifold water passage points water will definitely either come out visibly, go into the block invisibly, or both.

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Old 08-13-2013, 10:23 PM   #22
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since I changed my oil myself, after only idling my engine for 10 min, I can tell you you can fill up the engine to the top of the dip stick tube.

i used the pump and dip stick tube, but the pump would not pull the water, so I pulled the plug and it all landed in the bilge.

Note: since my boat is a fresh water cooled, it was easier to pin point the raw water, since the fresh closed look was in good shape.



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Old 08-13-2013, 10:58 PM   #23
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Pas .....please tell me you don't use those junky-***** fram oil filter....say it ain't so!

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Old 08-14-2013, 12:42 AM   #24
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What Dan said has merit regarding it possibly being the intake. This would explain how a large amount of water can get into the oil and yet the engine still run OK.

The water jacket is at least an inch way from the nearest intake runner so water would probably not get into it.

Rick have you used a mirror to see whaere the water is leaking at? If it's the intake then it should be leaking between the intake and head.
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Old 08-14-2013, 01:27 AM   #25
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no that FRAM oil filter was my boat mechanic who was a Rinker dealer..... I changed it along with the water in the oil.
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Old 08-14-2013, 11:59 AM   #26
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I'm hoping you all are right I will pull the intake today.The shabby way the engine was put together I'm thinking that is the case ....Every bolt i have removed seems to be only a little more than hand tight .I know there are torque specs for the exhaust manifolds ..it took only one hand on a small ratchet handle to break them.I'm going to call Jasper today to see if I can find out who installed the motor!And by the way although the impeller in the OD looked ok there is much more pressure in the incomming water than before I replaced it , which may have caused the gasket to blow out. Wish me luck!

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Old 08-14-2013, 04:19 PM   #27
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From what I have read the torque for the intake is done in 3 steps, 22lbs, 44lbs and then 66lbs.

Good luck
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Old 08-14-2013, 04:54 PM   #28
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Inch pounds, Mike?

Cuz 66 Ft/P is approaching cylinder head bolt torque.....
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Old 08-14-2013, 09:14 PM   #29
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No that is foot lbs.

Head bolts are > 100 foot lbs.
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Old 08-14-2013, 09:21 PM   #30
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Huh. I can only relate to the BBC in my '66 Chevy as far as bolt torque goes. I'm almost positive that the intake manifold bolts get torqued to something like 25 or 30 Ft/P and the head bolts to 75 or 80.

I think I missed what engine the OP has. Nevertheless, the correct bolt torque is listed somewhere.
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