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Old 08-12-2013, 01:01 AM   #11
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Not a good way to get beack into boating.

As Pas said start with a compression test. What ever you do don't let water sit in the cylinders over the winter or the engine will be done for sure.

Do you have any experience with pulling heads?
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Old 08-12-2013, 11:53 AM   #12
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water is the engine will not hurt it as the oil is coating everything, in the short run.

If you had that much water, then I'm surprise the thing ran.

The only way that much water could get in the engine that fast is the manifolds, as it is pumped in.

A blow head gasket, or cracked block would not be the severer.

Pull the riser off and look for rust on the inside of the exhaust ports on the engine.
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Old 08-12-2013, 04:43 PM   #13
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Water getting into the cylinders from a bad manifold can't get into the oil easly either it has to get past pistons and rings which if are in normal shape will only let small amount past and not a gallon. I question the gallon comment, that would mean 1 gallon of water plus 5 qts or over a gallon of oil. Water in oil becomes foamy which may look like a lot more water than on thinks.
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Old 08-12-2013, 06:18 PM   #14
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my engine had a ruff idle, that cleared up after a few minutes.

In my case is the water filled up the cylinder over night, and then the compression stroke push the water into the crank case, as water dose not compress, as it is hydraulic.

also, the water filled the intake manifold gallery as the valves are open on intake, as the manifolds where higher then the whole engine.

Luckily, it was confined to one side of the engine, and I only bump the engine on the starter, but that did bend two pushrods, because the exhaust valve could not open with the water in the cylinders.

My attempt at the first hydrogen boat engine was not successful.

actually, the same thing happens on old radial engine airplanes for WWII, the bottom inverted cylinder bucket, would collect oil over night, then they would start the engine and the oil would not compress, and blow the cylinder off the engine.
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Old 08-12-2013, 10:19 PM   #15
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2 bent pushrods, I have also seen bent valves and connecting rods from trying to compress water. But still a gallon into the pan?

Anyhow let's see what he has to say, that is if he isn't so mad he can't find the words
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Old 08-13-2013, 12:22 AM   #16
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well, my push rods lucky only slip out of there groove, since I only bumped the engine on the starter.
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Old 08-13-2013, 01:22 AM   #17
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The deal is... the engine was running fine when I opened the enging hatch to check temps with a infrared thermometer ..The bilge was full of water!!!I looked back by the flywheel on the starter side....Oily water was rushing out of the engine I couldn't tell from where (still running fine )Then I shut it off .I pulled the dip stick to see brown sludge way above the full mark..Later I pumped almost half of a 5 gallon bucket of this sludge out of the crank case. I will start dissasembly tomorrow..And yes I am very upset ..disapointed ..Depressed .I thought I was buying a good reliable (new jasper long block)beautiful boat last september..I got one good trip out of it..I have the knowlege and equipment to rebuild the whole thing if I have to.I just wasn't thinking I would have to do it so soon.I'll let you all know when I find out what happened.Thanks for your concern and suggestions!
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Old 08-13-2013, 12:47 PM   #18
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hey,

its still could be your manifolds dumping raw water into the engine.

The oil is only the result of the crank case full of water, and its over fill coming out the vents. Its oil cappuccino.

I would guess, that the engine is fine from jaspar, its the old crappy manifolds they reused causing problems.

Disconnect the raw water lines to the manifolds, one on each side, or better yet, one at a time, and run the engine with the raw water going over board, and by pass the manifold cooling for a bit, and see if that solves the problem.

The goof balls did the same to me on a re install and reused this riser block, and I had the same issues.


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Old 08-13-2013, 07:36 PM   #19
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I have to ask ...how could the crankcase fill with water with the motor running (oil was fine before we went out)..Now for an update I went out to crank the motor and get the new oil I put in circulated thru I figured it wouldn't start but it started up and ran fine 20 seconds and I shut it off I pulled the riser..It's rusty but not totally clogged. The plugs didn't look like there was water in the cylinders.Manifold will come off next.

Rick

its still could be your manifolds dumping raw water into the engine.

The oil is only the result of the crank case full of water, and its over fill coming out the vents. Its oil cappuccino.

I would guess, that the engine is fine from jaspar, its the old crappy manifolds they reused causing problems.

Disconnect the raw water lines to the manifolds, one on each side, or better yet, one at a time, and run the engine with the raw water going over board, and by pass the manifold cooling for a bit, and see if that solves the problem.

The goof balls did the same to me on a re install and reused this riser block, and I had the same issues.


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Old 08-13-2013, 08:25 PM   #20
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the manifolds, spaces, and elbows are all above your engine like a toilet tank, and are draining down thought the valves, anyone that is open.

Half open valves, will fill your intake gallery.

Funny, in Detroit the 1970's they fooled around with water injection to boost horsepower.

needless to say, any water in the cylinder at 1500 rpm is going to end up in the oil pan in short order one drip at a time.
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