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Old 07-22-2014, 04:04 PM   #21
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FYI .....when winterizing use that coat hanger on all your drain petcocks. Where ever you run you might have some sediment clogging those petcocks and unless you give it a couple pokes with the hanger to open them up you might think it has drained but has not........
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Old 07-22-2014, 04:21 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by biggerseagar View Post
FYI .....when winterizing use that coat hanger on all your drain petcocks. Where ever you run you might have some sediment clogging those petcocks and unless you give it a couple pokes with the hanger to open them up you might think it has drained but has not........
+1 but I use a small screw driver
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Old 07-22-2014, 04:34 PM   #23
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+2 Always visually inspect to make sure an ample amount of water is coming out of each.

My process is to run it with muffs on until itís warmed up.
Then fog the top end through the carb while itís running until it dies. This way I know the top end is lubed and the engine is full of water.
Then I remove my plugs from the TOP working down to the bottom ball valves because gravity works. This way you can actually watch the water come out of EACH port.
Then I remove the thermostat and add a gallon of RV antifreeze where the thermostat was and watch the pink liquid also come out of the bottom open ball valves. (Paying particular attention to the right, lower hose that goes to the power steering cooler.)
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Old 07-23-2014, 11:21 AM   #24
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That's some great knowledge to spread around. Before I do a lot of searching, does anyone know how hard it is to get the 4.3 modified for that drain? Since I don't have a money tree in the back yard I'm going to take a little time, plan this out and get the best "bang for the buck" so to speak. It's been a pain trying to change the oil through the fill tube, so I'm going to try and figure out some way to incorporate a drain through the oil pan as well. I just hate thinking that some "bad" oil just can't be pulled out through the dipstick and is left behind.

I can't say it enough, the knowledge I've picked up on this site is hard to come by off-line. Thanks everyone!
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Old 07-23-2014, 11:38 AM   #25
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Well if the engine is out they make a hose that attaches where the oil pan dain plug goes. The other end connects to the garboard (transom drain plug). You remove the plug and pull the hose out, uncap it and oil flow :-)

Regarding putting ball valves on the engine drains it is just a matter of getting the correct fitting, Darren should be able to tell you this as his engine and the 4.3 will have the same threads on the block.
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Old 07-23-2014, 12:25 PM   #26
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1/4 NPT = Galvanized Pipe Nipple 1/4 x 3

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Old 07-23-2014, 11:06 PM   #27
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If you use the drains make sure to ďdopeĒ them up good with marine grade sealant or tape. http://www.henkelna.com/industrial/T...ring-21396.htm

The drain thing Mike is talking about look like this - http://www.overtons.com/modperl/prod...ls.cgi?i=26163

There are several threads discussing the good and bad points about using them. Several have lost motors because they come loose and thus, the oil empties out. Several others swear by them, however almost everyone that loves them will tell you they drain slower than you can imagine. Obviously the tube canít be that bigÖ. because it has to fit THROUGH the boat drain hole. Just my 2 cents
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Old 07-24-2014, 02:05 AM   #28
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Another option to drain the oil is a pump system that is connected to the oil pan permanently, turn a valve and flip a switch to drain.
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