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Old 05-26-2011, 03:34 AM   #21
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Not to turn this into a car thing.. this part is mainly for Dan and because I like talking about engines. I just installed a Holley air gap strip dominator and a Barry Grant 750 cfm dual feed on the Chevelle with 2 Aeromotive regulators, Aeromotive fuel pump and filters pre and post, MSD 6AL ignition box, MSD 8969 Window switch, MSD 85551 distributor, MSD blaster 3 coil, and MSD 8970 3 stage retard box...

All so I could run the two stage plate wet nitrous. It's a 300 dual shot kit with a bottle heater and I have two bottles. Think I'll start out running 75 shot primary and 100 shot secondary.... if I need it, just so I don't have any issues hooking up. 2 degrees per 50 shot of retard for the NOS.

Again, I'm not new to motors everyone, just looking for advice from people who have the boats and know...looking for great advice and I appreciate everyone's input so far. Thanks again Dan for keeping my head out of the clouds, you are an intelligent man!! Pic's included for those who love them!!







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Old 05-26-2011, 01:43 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneradride View Post
....I'm not new to motors everyone......
Oh - so NOW you tell me. Had I realized that my replies would have been much, much shorter and to the point, like: "Dude, don't be stupid trying to run the car ECM......."

If money was no object a turn key 350 MAG MPI engine with computer would be the way to go. If that ain't in the cards I'd go with either a bare block, a short block, or a long block - depending on how much time you have to put something together. You know that once you start to stray from "stock" you end up spending bags of time trying to get it to work or tweaking it.

And it's nearly the end of May.

Is that '70 in one of the pictures yours? Two stages of gas should make things very fun but you're not likely to get it to hook on the street. I'll likely have the same problem with the mild 500/600 489 I have waiting to go back into my 4 speed Impala.

Dan
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Old 05-26-2011, 02:18 PM   #23
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The silver one was mine, sold it and bought another 70 last year. It's currently red with black stripes. It's a strangely optioned Malibu with a 4 speed and a 12 bolt from the factory. I just got the SS dash finished, its setting in the basement until the body work is completed. I also just bought a functional cowl induction hood for her. When done this car will be all black with either arctic frost pearl stripes or pepper gray metallic (the color of that 67 GT-500 Mustang, Eleanor, in gone in 60 seconds)

Lots of projects this summer....
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Old 05-26-2011, 03:44 PM   #24
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well..being an ole engine builder from way back...I'd say go with a long block and not mess with trying to fit out an automotive engine to a marine function....there are too many parts that aren't compatable....but that's just me..


it's yer money ..

thanks for the pic's...awesome engines...


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Old 05-26-2011, 08:40 PM   #25
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Sorry seapuppy, didn't mean to leave you out, I also appreciate your advice very much, summer is dwindling away, I'm taking the easy route. It ran 57 mph that way it was anyway. That's fast enough.
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Old 07-19-2011, 11:24 PM   #26
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Default alignment of the engine to the drive and boat

"alignment of the engine to the drive and boat"

About ready to do this and I have read in more than one place the lining things up can be a chore to say the least. Can anyone that has actually done this tell me why? There are 4 motor mounts, how can it be off so far that the outdrive will not go back in correctly? I don't understand.... What is the correct method for reassembly so alignment is not a problem?

Thanks!!
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Old 07-20-2011, 03:29 AM   #27
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well..the hard part is getting it all aligned...so..there is about a 10 ft pole that fits into the output shaft of the engine..fist in the splines of the crank....as you turn the motor over...you can see the shaft wobble...aligning the shaft puts the drive inline with the engine...so..loosen the engine mounts....and yank on the pole then turn it over to see which way it goes...

once the shaft is not wobbling ....tighten up the motor mounts and you should be done...mainly the idea is to get the shaft straight thru the gimbal bearing...should be a straight shot visually...


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Old 07-20-2011, 01:24 PM   #28
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I've never seen that method of alignment before. That sounds like a pain. The alignment tool i used, you cover it with grease, then insert it through the transom assembly into the output shaft. Then you carefully remove it. You can see where the splines displaced teh grease on the alignment tool. The marks should be absolutely equal on all sides. If there are lines missing or not equal to the spline marks on the other side, then reasjust, then regrease and insert again. Once the spline marks are absolutely equal on all sides, then torque down the motor mount bolts.

Typically, you can use the alignment tool to push, pull in the proper direction to realign the motor. I even saw a mechanic whack the alignment tool with a rubber mallet to move the motor around to get it aligned correctly.
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Old 07-21-2011, 01:15 AM   #29
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Like this, about 100.00 bucks?...... Sounds resonable to make sure its done right. Thanks for the help again!!

http://www.iboats.com/Engine-Alignme...view_id.172151


eBay is ever better.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Engin...ssoriesQ5fGear
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