Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-13-2019, 06:08 PM   #21
Lt. Commander
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 111
Default

OK.. Time to stop sobbing and get this fixed..

This is a mammoth spend and risk for me but at the same time I bought the boat for mental health reasons and to learn too... If the coupler needs replacing, I think I'll get a professional to do it.. but until then........

Could I please ask you to review my plan and shopping list? Is there is anything else I need that you can think of.. Please bear in mind I'm a complete novice with limited tools however the instructional videos on are great and feel confident enough to get this done.

When ordering the outleg it says "Ships in two boxes. Does not Include Complete Install Kit or Anode Kit. Please see related items below. Up to 300 HP Uses the latest style speedometer fitting - OE#860382. This part is not included and will be required to have a working speedometer."

Not too worried about speedometer can look at that another time unless you can see a reason to just get it done with the leg.

I can take the anodes and bits off the old leg if I need them however will replace the gasket and o-rings etc from a new set.

Shopping list
  • 1 x Alpha 1 Gen 2 Complete Sterndrive 1.81 Ratio. My current unit shows 1.80 on the side however it's slightly rubbed off. Can definitely see 1.8
  • 1 x Bell housing gasket set (1983 – present)
  • 1 x 3M 08002 Yellow 2 oz. Super Weather-Strip and Gasket Adhesive Tube
  • 1 x GEAR OIL PUMP fits Quicksilver & Sierra 946ml & 1 lt containers.
  • 3 x Quicksilver Lower unit high performance gear lube
  • 1 x tube of quicksilver extreme grease
  • 1 x Impeller replacement kit (don’t know if new complete drive comes with one)
  • 1 x Engine alignment tool for Mercruiser OMC Cobra OMC SX and Volvo SX stern drives
  • 1 x Solus Prop 1511-143-21

Install Plan
  1. Place impeller into new leg and assemble
  2. Put throttle into forward gear
  3. Remove trim arms
  4. Remove old leg using 6 bolts.
  5. Remove old gasket and O-Rings
  6. Grease alignment tool and check engine/coupler alinement
  7. If ok continue, if not adjust engine height
  8. Install O-Ring and grease drive shaft
  9. Install water passage o-ring with adhesive
  10. Install bell housing gasket
  11. Place new leg and screw into place.
  12. Fix anodes from old leg
  13. Fix trim arms
  14. Install propeller
  15. Pump gear lube from bottom inlet
  16. Pour rest of lube in gear lube container at engine
  17. Pray?

#BreakOutAnotherThousand

Thank you all once again!
Attached Thumbnails
20190806_201704.jpg  
__________________

fester is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2019, 08:23 PM   #22
Admiral
 
mmwjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,176
Default

As stated before I’m not a fan of SEI based on others experiences. The new lower unit will come with a new impeller already installed. The Alpha only needs about 1.5 quarts of gear lube. All else sounds correct.
__________________

__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2

Mike
mmwjr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2019, 01:36 PM   #23
Lt. Commander
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 111
Thumbs up I have a working outdrive/boat again!

TLDR: It's been a long road and learned a tonne! Thankfully I now have a working outdrive and boat again thanks to all of you!

I bought a new upper and lower unit along with all what was needed in my previous post.

First up we removed the old complete outdrive. The splines going into the engine coupler were intact! My greatest concern was the coupler was gone. Thank fully not the case!

We then proceeded to take apart the broken upper/lower unit and to my shock the lower unit with the drive shaft had half the splines missing. The top snapped in half where the splines meet (See picture). The other bit was lodged in the upper unit and looks difficult to remove. I haven’t taken apart the top unit to see the upper gear damage yet. Might post a follow up on this later.

Then proceeded to follow the tutorial . The new upper and lower unit ship in two boxes and needed to be assembled. Easy enough, it included the o-ring in the lower unit for the gear lube and impeller ready to go. Unfortunately, it was missing the guide tube for the impeller housing! Recommend a "Black and Decker Workmate" or something similar to hold the lower unit while you get everything ready. Swapped anodes from old leg to new one. Also needed thrust washer from old leg. New prop didn’t come with one :-/

Next up, engine alignment! Got the tool, tried to test it and originally thought the tool was the wrong size as it didn’t fit into the coupler
at all.. After having a discussion with a boat mechanic, he said it was virtually impossible for the engine to go that much out of
alignment and "should be fine".. So proceeded to install the leg using gasket adhesive for the bellhousing O-ring and water intake ring.
With a little fiddling we got it to a point where it would go in 90% of the way but exactly 1 inch out. Googling around everything pointed
to the "Mercruiser Kick (TM)" however even with hard kicks it still wouldn’t go in.. Using a block of wood and mallet.. It went in eventually. Pumped the gear lube in and flushing muffs quickly on.. The outdrive worked. Didn’t have time to test it out on the water. It was an emotional journey but alas it worked!

Couldn’t sleep that night thinking about why it was so difficult to install and all the youtube videos show it popping into place with ease..
Even though the boat is 16+ years old it still shouldn’t have been that difficult. Decided to do some more googling and came across this excellent . (8:52 in, This guys video was great!)
It was EXACTLY the same symptoms we had observed.

Two weeks later decided to give it another go. Drained some of the lube, took the leg off and proceeded with alignment. It was way off. I could only access the two mounts at the bottom of the engine. I couldn’t see or get access to the transom mounts. After 5 hours got to a stage where the alignment tool went in with a little push and witnessed all the splines. I couldn’t get it so that I could remove it using 3 fingers (is there some magic voodoo that needs to be done here?). It did take a tug to remove the tool but hey at least it went in this time!

When putting the drive back in.. it went in with just 1 easy kick :-) Pumped more gear lube and tested again.. It worked!

Took it out on the water for the first time without any noticeable difference from before we hit the leg.
It takes abit to get to plane but when it does its flying. I felt like Andy Dufresne at the end of Shawshank Redemption when he climbed out of the tunnel!

Couple of tips/lessons learned:
  • Get a second gasket/o-ring kit. Its only a 10er, worth it incase you pinch/damage the first and you can use it again if/when you need it.
  • Use gasket adhesive for the bellhousing o-ring. It drove me nuts when it kept popping out when trying to get the outdrive in!
  • Get some spare e-clips for the hydraulic trim rams.. I broke one and they are pretty cheap.
  • Use disposable gloves and lots of paper towels!
  • Had some difficulty removing the bolt on the broken leg as it was a size 11MM Allen key. I couldn’t get one from stores in time so bought a 12MM and ground it to an 11MM!
  • Find something to put under the leg when working as not to scrape / damage the skeg. I used soft chipboard also acts as a protector from spilling gear-lube!
  • GREAT/Invaluable tip on how to align engine using a smaller pipe
  • Ask questions on this forum. This is the second successful (major) fix I have done with my boat and all thanks to everyone on here!
  • Make sure it’s the right gear ratio for your outdrive if replacing!
  • In the alignment tool we trust :-)
  • Finally, if this does happen to you. It might make you feel a little better to read that my local marine parts shop has the lower leg unit as a best seller!
Attached Thumbnails
20190824_121214.jpg   20190824_162511.jpg   20190824_202118.jpg  
fester is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2019, 02:53 PM   #24
Moderator

 
shrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,588
Default

WOW!!! I've seen a few of these on BIII's. Usually teeth just sheer. I've never seen one where the entire shaft twisted. Replacement was a better option. You basically had an aluminum case and were going to rebuild the entire thing otherwise.
shrew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2019, 07:29 PM   #25
Admiral
 
mmwjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,176
Default

Agree 100% with shrew. I know we PMed a few times but I didn’t realize the shafts were that bad. Now get out there and enjoy before it’s time to pack up for the winter.

PS wonder how the rock looked?
__________________

__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2

Mike
mmwjr is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT. The time now is 08:58 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.