Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-28-2014, 06:00 PM   #1
Lieutenant
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 56
Default Click Click

Click Click was the dreaded sound a couple of weekends ago when trying to start up my 2000 2300SC 5.7. I had long enough cables to jump start the boat from my truck, luckily...

I had replaced the Intake Gasket & Exhaust gaskets this spring (posted "a gallon of water in engine oil") and since replaced the batteries. Now I believe I hooked up something incorrectly - or not at all pertaining to the charging system.

After the last trip (where the boat needed a jump start), I put the battery charger on for a whole day. Batteries were charged and I turned the battery switch to "Off" to prevent any drain as I was suspect something was not right.

This last weekend, I was keeping an eye on it. The boat did start, Amp meter looked to operate as normal.
Later in the day after stopping several times, upon start-up, while at idle, the Amp gauge reads 11 Volts for a short period. After a minute or two the alternator kicks on - I believe this is the case due to the sound of the added load on the engine as well as the Amp gauge jumping to 15 Volts. The Amp Gauge will show 15 volts for the entire time the engine is running. After running the engine for a good hour to 1-1/2 hours, I pulled the boat home and found that the batteries were low.

This leads me to believe the alternator is charging but the charge is not getting to my batteries.
I did look at the alternator and everything is connected and tight. I think it may be in something I disconnected while removing the Intake & Exhaust manifolds.

You guys have always helped tremendously, do you have any suggestions on where I should look? Or a charging system wiring diagram for a 2000 5.7 liter Mercruiser 2BBL Alpha1?

Thanks for all of your help...
__________________

spydermann22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2014, 06:23 PM   #2
Admiral
 
mmwjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,176
Default

When charging the alternator should not put out more than 13.5V. The voltage regulator in the alternator may be bad. Some automotive stores can test it for you if you remove it and take it in.
Are the battery connections clean and tight?

Click image for larger version

Name:	electric fuel pump wiring.jpg
Views:	12
Size:	110.3 KB
ID:	3493
__________________

__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2

Mike
mmwjr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2014, 06:27 PM   #3
Lieutenant
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 56
Default

The battery connections are clean & tight. Thanks for the diagram, I will have to take a look at all of the connections but I bet I will be pulling the alternator and taking it in like you suggest.
Thanks for the quick response!! You are the best!
spydermann22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2014, 07:56 PM   #4
Admiral
 
biggerseagar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: central Illinois
Posts: 2,279
Default

Get a load test done on your battery.
biggerseagar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2014, 01:28 PM   #5
Lt. Commander
 
oneradride's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 228
Default

Sounds like the charging lead coming off the alternator is NOT connected to the perko switch or your battery bank(s) correctly. I had the same problem when my lead came loose in the back of the alternator… the system is sensing low or NO voltage so the alternator is pumping out everything it can and it’s going nowhere.

http://www.maxumownersclub.com/forum...e-please/page2
__________________
Money pit or not..... you got to love 'em! ~ Darren
oneradride is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2014, 11:33 PM   #6
Lieutenant
 
njones's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Decatur, AL
Posts: 53
Default

I've had similar situation with a "bad" brand new battery. I would have the battery tested as mentioned above.
njones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2014, 01:05 PM   #7
Lt. Commander
 
oneradride's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 228
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by spydermann22 View Post
I think it may be in something I disconnected while removing the Intake & Exhaust manifolds. // This leads me to believe the alternator is charging but the charge is not getting to my batteries.
All good advice but let’s not overlook the basics of trouble shooting. The interracial question here is “what changed” I’ve been a mechanic all my life and for the past 20 some years a computer scientist. Every time I get a call about a broken system the FRIST question I ask is “what changed” This should always be your starting point.

It worked, you changed something and now it does not This is not to say something didn't just go bad in the process, but retracing your steps will lead you to the problem 95% of the time.
__________________
Money pit or not..... you got to love 'em! ~ Darren
oneradride is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2014, 03:11 PM   #8
Admiral
 
mmwjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,176
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by oneradride View Post
All good advice but let’s not overlook the basics of trouble shooting. The interracial question here is “what changed” I’ve been a mechanic all my life and for the past 20 some years a computer scientist. Every time I get a call about a broken system the FRIST question I ask is “what changed” This should always be your starting point.

It worked, you changed something and now it does not This is not to say something didn't just go bad in the process, but retracing your steps will lead you to the problem 95% of the time.
+1 what Darren said however with 33 years as a EE I look at the recent change FIRST and not FRIST, but that's just me
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2

Mike
mmwjr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2014, 03:39 PM   #9
Lt. Commander
 
oneradride's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 228
Default

Roflmao... I said Interracial too…. I meant “integral” damn spell ck
__________________
Money pit or not..... you got to love 'em! ~ Darren
oneradride is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2014, 11:59 PM   #10
Lieutenant
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Chain O' Lakes, IL
Posts: 99
Default

The alternator usually need a brief bump in rpm to get it up to ~13.5 volts.

If the battery checks out, a test light will help you find a battery drain. Disconnect all the positive cables on the battery. One at a time, hook them up in series with the test light. You may have a Mercathode, CO detector, stereo memory or bilge pump that's draining the battery.

FYI: I like to keep a jump pack on board. If nothing else, it's helped other boaters from time to time.
AlwaysSober is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2014, 12:34 AM   #11
Lt. Commander
 
oneradride's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 228
Default

Those jump packs are AWESOME, I have one also… Still need to find the root cause though. Before you do a “parasitic drain test” take a multimeter and check the large lug on the alternator. (Purple wire in Mikes diagram above) Does it read the same as the gauge?

This purple wire (I believe) is your problem…...of course I’m not there

Then take the same multimeter and check the battery… not the same reading? Not charging…. Purple wire problem.
__________________

__________________
Money pit or not..... you got to love 'em! ~ Darren
oneradride is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT. The time now is 06:36 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.