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Old 06-11-2014, 04:08 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by ss3964spd View Post
Remember, though, it's not just replacing the spring. Once installed you need to adjust the choke when the engine is cold.

Judging rom the spooge you dumped out of the rear fuel bowl you might also consider giving that carb a good cleaning.
Okay, thanks! I filled the bowl with carb cleaner and let it sit a bit and repeated unit carb cleaner came out clean. Should I use the carb dip as well?

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Old 06-11-2014, 09:27 PM   #32

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I wouldn't bother with carb "dip", but using a spray carb cleaner, like "Gumout" through the passages would be worth your time.

I don't know if you have taken the carb apart, but you may want to consider installing a rebuild kit if you are comfortable doing so.

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Old 06-23-2014, 01:38 AM   #33
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Well, me and a buddy took the boat out for a maintenance run...

We tuned the carb by ear and adjusted the idle (which was low [500] rpm in the water). It is now tuned to 650-700 rpm while in the water. The manual calls for 650 rpm.

We did everything we can to get it to fail, including letting the engine cool and restarting several times.

If anybody is looking for the specs for a 1994 4.3 liter, let me know. I have the original documentations for the engine, lower unit and hull for a 1994 1800sr.

To wrap it up, there was a series of problems including a battery cut-off switch with half the cranking amperage, a bad igniter coil, corroded engine block ground, old plugs [gaped wrong], wrong exhaust shutters, gunked up carb, bad bi-metal choke, a mixture adjustment, and a idle adjustment!

Sorry this doesn't narrow the problem down for other useres, but at least give a checklist of possibilities...

Just glad it runs, like it never ran before 50 mph, at 4200 rpm WOT (before I backed it off)!

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Old 06-23-2014, 11:40 AM   #34
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Thanks for the good news report, yep all of those things combined can run you in circles.

Now enjoy the season.

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